Hardinge DSM59 restoration - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    Thank you!

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  2. #42
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    Okay so I finally ordered my phase converter I got A5 horse one. I bought it from American rotary, it is supposed to be fairly decent it wasn't that expensive really. I just got another cross slide for free I'm so geeked LOL

    I also got two of those tool holders that swivel and travel about I don't know two inches maybe? Another guy that was talking to call them a tip plate I don't know why we call him that but that's what he called them.

    So I traced the wireing back from the control circuit Transformer. It seems that L1 which is black is it enters the machine goes to the top left-hand side of the Transformer and L3 which is red as it enters the machine goes two the top right-hand connector of the Transformer period so from what I've been told I should use the two utility legs for L1 and L3 and connect l22 the manufactured leg I assume does it make sense to anyone out there? I traced L2 and it seems to go to another Transformer with a lot of connections on it that's directly below the three main fuses in the ebox.



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    Last edited by Xnerd; 04-03-2017 at 03:50 PM.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnerd View Post
    A tree fell too and it seems to go to another Transformer with a lot of connections on it that's directly below the three main fuses in the ebox.
    I would remove the fallen tree before proceeding any further.

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  5. #44
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    Lol typo's voice recognition is not my friend

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  7. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradjacob View Post
    You can just get an American Rotary converter. I too just got a DSM59 and got an RPC, solely for this machine. And like Jim Rozen, we both have Hardinge with HEavy-10'a near by
    My American rotary converter is on its way. I bought the 5 horse
    Now I traced back the wiring as follows

    From the control circuit Transformer
    The top left goes to the fuse labeled L3
    The top right goes to fuse labeled L1
    Bans L2 goes to the transformer directly below the fuse block

    I was told not to apply the manufactured leg to the control transformer so I assume that I should make that one L2?

    As the enter the machine the color coding is as follows:
    L1 red
    L2 white
    L3 black

    Are my instructions for the manufactured leg in sync with my interpretation aka (L2 = manufacturered)?


    Disclaimer: I might have stated L1 and L3 in reverse color and fuse location I will have to look again
    The point is that both go to the control transformer and are red and black as enter the machine.a d L2 goes elsewhere. (I need to fine out more information on this other transformer and what it controls )

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  8. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paolo_MD View Post
    Generally, you want to avoid connecting the generated leg (="wild leg") to the controls. There are two main reasons for that. First, although balance, it's always more noisy and could interfere with the controls (that's true mostly with machines with more complex controls than yours). Second, even if the RPC were to fail somehow, you don't damage the controls and you could potentially stop the lathe in a more orderly way.

    Paolo
    Thanks for that

    You seem to know what you're talking about I have a situation here now where I'm unsure how to proceed period I got my converter I'm starting to assemble things I don't even have the wiring yet I have to run out later to get wiring which brings me to my first question

    I was going to use 8 gauge for line 1 lying to and ground lug but I don't really know what to use 4 the rust there's a table here but I don't know what the maximum amperage draw would be for this machine overall period with the small horsepower it looks like I can use pretty wimpy wires and I do understand that this setup allows for lower amperage but I don't want to go too small. I have some really nice 4 conductor water from an old machine but it was recently updated so it's pretty new wire it's really nice and flexible rubber coatings. It's rated for 600 volts but it says 14 on the casing. I can't imagine it's 14 gauge wire it looks heavier than that but stranded wire is always misleading.

    If you were someone else could give me a kick in the pants to tell me the gauges of warrior that you used for the similar setup it would help me a lot. I want to do this as right as possible

    Also what size breaker to feed the 5 horse convertor? Should it be based on machine output?
    I have a 50 open in the box but that seems much to high

    Thank you very much

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  9. #47
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    Okay based on their little chart I did some rough estimations and I came up with using 8 gauge as input for the phase converter and 10 gauge real nice rubberized 600 rated wire for The Idler and converter 2 load. If anyone sees any problem with that please let me know

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    And it works great

    I ended up using 8 awg input and 10 awg everywhere else

    Had yo switch up L1 and L2 to make shit run normal

    Done


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