Hardinge hlv

Hi all I am motoRichard and this is my first post . I have just recently bought a Hardinge HLV lathe which came from a Oxford (UK)university. One of the reasons for purchasing the machine It came with a lot of accessories and a good set of 5c collets. But disappointingly the lathe came with a manual handle collet draw bar. Has anybody out there got a quick action collet closer handle assembly they would be willing to sell to me for the HLV model. I am in Hertfordshire in the UK and look forward to hopefully being a contributing member of this forum.

unfortunately, I can't be of assistance with the closer, just wanted to be the first to say welcome!

When you say 'manual handle' do you mean the original lever operated drawbar or an after-market screw operated drawbar? I don't see that you are going to find one second hand. Hardinge might sell you one if you have a first-born daughter to trade...

I have an HLV. Great lathe. Mine is very accurate. I installed a Newall DRO which makes up for the age of the beast in many respects. Ebay will be your friend! I have found many bits and pieces I needed there. There is an excellent source of information and possibly parts in the UK (or at least there was a few years ago...). Here is the link. My feeble brain says talk to Peter, but that may be wrong.
ZMT Services Ltd. - Hardinge from ZMT Services Ltd - The UK's No 1 Hardinge recommended rebuild specialists

Have Fun!!!
Michael

Thank you for the replies cyanidekid USA, Mark UK, Ferretlegger”Michael”USA. Mark when I read my post back it wasn’t as clear as I would have liked. The draw bar that cam with my HLV is the Hardinge manual turn handle.I do quite a lot of repetitive work so Really would like the quick action lever handle. And as you say will be a tall wish and probably a expensive one. Michael Thankyou for the ZMT tip. I have spoken to Paul there and he doesn’t keep spares for the HLV unfortunately as he is extremely helpful. I am not good with forums so please bare with me as I learn the ropes. It’s cool to share your interest globally. Mark I am in Hertfordshire UK . Thanks again to the replies fingers crossed for a miracle and Happy New year to all.

First, you have to clarify what lathe you have. Hardinge made a model HLV lathe from 1950 to 1960. It has a bed that is about 5 inches wide. In 1960, they did a complete redesign and called the new lathe with 7 inch wide bed model HLV-H. Many people use the term HLV when they have the 1960 model, so you have to clarify. Pictures will do the job. I think the main difference between the two models in regard to the lever closer is the bracket on the back of the headstock (which determines the shape and length of the connecting link) and possibly the length of the tube. The online pictures I have seen of the HLV and HLV-H do not show the back of the headstock, so I am guessing about what the HLV anchor bracket looks like.

I have an extra lever collet closer for an HLV-H. I have original Hardinge parts that can probably be used to build a lever collet closer for an HLV, but I do not have enough information to actually build one. Shipping from USA to UK is expensive, and you will also have to pay Her Majesty's Customs and Excise to release the package. The actual price, less shipping, of my complete HLV-H lever collet closer assembly is $500. I think that is about 376 pounds sterling.

There is only one Hardinge lever closer on USA eBay today. It looks like it is for a 1940's ESM lathe, which has a tube that is much shorter than the HLV or HLV-H. They want $1000 for it and I see it has a repaired lever. Hardinge 5C Lever Operated Production Collet Draw Bar | eBay

In case you have not seen this excellent website, here is the link to it: http://www.lathes.co.uk/hardinge3/page3.html

Larry

Depending on your level of expertise, you can adapt just about any lever collet closure to the lathe. You will need a point of attachment for the reaction link, a coupler from the cam head to lathe outboard spindle opening and a sufficient length and size draw bar. The biggest issue is the draw tube. If you buy a closure that has too long a draw tube, just cut it off and thread the inside for the collet. If too short, make an extension tube that screws onto the existing draw tube and has threads cut on the inside for the collets. Make the coupling permanent or semi-permanent between the old draw tube and the extension. I have done this a couple of times and have had no problems. As a matter of fact, one could salvage a old draw tube with damaged or worn out collet threads this way.

Tom

Hi Larry Thank you for your reply and what a reply. I must admit my Hardinge knowledge is mainly what I learned from my father and to be honest I have done a lot of turning on Hardinge and not really paid attention to specific model name recognition. My Hardinge is exactly the same as the excellent link you included. My father referred to the older 5” bed as HLV and the 7” bed as the HLV H as you say and I have just done the same. So my lathe has the 5”bed. I am sure I will like to take you up on your offer but first I would like to take a look at a HLV H so I can work out what and if I can fit your collet closer to my lathe. I will be able to do this next Tuesday 2nd of January. Can I get back to you then and we can work something out. I hope you have a happy new year and I look forward to being in contact with you.

Hi Tom Thank you for your reply. I am going to look at the HLV H Collet changer and see how I can adapt it to fit my older HLV. Though you have opened a new approach. As you say I am confident I will be able to do it following your post. Happy new year.

My Hardinge is the HLV (no -H) So I can measure the pivot centres of the arms and the dimensions of the attachment to the bracket on the back of the headstock (although You should already have that dimension ) so you can see if Larry's one will need to be modified.

The only part of the assembly that is complicated is the cam mechanism that pulls the drawtube the last fraction of an inch to lock everything together. Even that could be copied if worst came to worse (rebuilt the entire lathe, but haven't taken that piece apart.


I would strongly suspect that the only parts that might be different between the models would be the length of the drawtube (easily re-made) and the length of the arm that goes from the back of the headstock to the bit with the handle and bearing mounting on it 9also fairly simple to fabricate). These parts would change because the DVH and DSM lathes didn't have a gearbox on the back of the headstock. There might be a length difference for between the HLV and HLV-H, but there might not.

Thank you Mark Rand for your reply and kind offer to measure your hardinge HLV to help fit Larry’s HLV H collet lever assembly to my HLV. Today I have been able to see a
HLV H lathe with lever collet assembly fitted And I am confident I can adapt it to fit my lathe. I have just sent a message to Larry to start the ball rolling to purchase his lever assembly. When I start to fit the lever assembly to my lathe I would like to contact you again to compare what I am doing with your lathe.

I want to let the forum know just what a fabulous help it has been. I bought a HLV H collet handle assembly from Larry Vanice. He kindly sorted out the correct length draw bar and all I had to do was make a new pivot swing arm. It is working very well and I am well pleased. A BIG THANK YOU TO LARRY (TOP BLOKE) And to the other replies.I have tried to attach pictures hopefully it has worked

How about getting a metric gear box. I use mine all the time.

Thank you Rons for the metric gear box idea. It just shows me how sheltered I have been because I have never heard of this before. Is this instead of the English box and if so how do you organise the thread pitch when thread turning.I do not think it is something I will do to this lathe as I am in the process of buying a metric HLV H . This will be the subject of a new post.

You don't have to think about organizing anything. It is already done for you in the HLV or HLV-H user manual. The metric box is a kit that can be purchased (at least it was for me). If you search around here you will find a HLV-H with a electric motor and LCD panel for that replaces the old gear box drive. With that you get a infinite number of pitches. Something I might do myself one day,I know I can handle the electronics part but I'm not sure about the drive motor. Servo, DC, not sure. For now I'm getting my usage out of what I have.

Babin Machine Tool

Wow the Babin servo electronic digital threading attachment looks very impressive. It is something I am sure I am going to put on my wish list. It would be nice to hear of some feedback from anyone who has or has used one. It is also appealing that it looks fairly straight forward to fit. It also seams to be fairly priced for what it offers.

Considering a Hardinge metric gear box kit is almost a $1000 that might be a good idea. Sometimes I hear somebody that says "I'm never going to get my money out of that". Screw that type of intellect. You only live once, why live on the cheap? Considering that some guys like to use gold plated toilets on their private jets, a expensive drive on a Hardinge is a lot more practical.