Looking for a Chuck for Hardinge HLV-H-EM

Hi All,

I am looking to buy a new 6" chuck with a tapered back on it, does anyone know where I could find one?

Thanks
Tim Hill

I have no new chucks for sale, but I believe Bison does. For some reason, I think they sell a backplate for about $285 to go with their chuck.

I probably have about a half-dozen chucks that fit the Hardinge lathes. My least favorite is a 6" with reversible jaws. With the 6" chuck, the minute you start to open the jaws up, they are sticking out and getting too close to everything. For this reason, I suggest you look into the 5" chucks with 2 sets of jaws. I prefer the Hardinge, factory-supplied, chucks with integral taper mount. Since I have the luxury of multiple chucks, I just swap out the chuck when I need to have the different jaws.

A used one sold on ebay yesterday for around $170 that looked in pretty good shape.

Hardinge sold 5" chucks for use on their lathes, and that is a pretty good fit, though a 6" chuck works fine. In the last twenty years or so, they also sold 6" chucks, which I think is the best size for the 11" swing HLV-H.

The chuck size you buy is probably a matter of what sort of work is expected, but I like to be ready for both large and small work. I personally use a pair of Pratt Burnerd 6" Setrite chucks, 3-jaw and 6-jaw, on my 9" Hardinge lathes. I never run the jaws far enough out of the chuck body to bang into the bed, and don't suppose anyone would do anything that foolish. I also have a pair of Buck 4" Ajust-Tru chucks, 3-jaw and 6-jaw, mounted on 5C fixture plates that I find very useful for small work.

I have a good selection of chucks for sale. I do have a new Pratt-Burnerd steel body 6" 3-jaw Setrite and a new BTC 6" Zero Set 3-jaw. I have a few Hardinge taper back plates for them, but don't recall if any are unused. I have a dozen or so used chucks, including a very nice "Hardinge made by Buck" 6" Ajust-Tru.

Email: lvanice at comcast.net

Larry

Thread resurrection: This thread was of interest to me and I think it could have continued.

I have one of the ('60 or '70 I assume) 5" Hardinge "Made in England" 3 jaw chucks with the 4º taper back plate. I assume it was made by Pratt-Burned. The chuck is OK except that it only has one set of jaws. A set of outside clamping (or reverse) jaws would be very useful to me but I know they will be unavailable (or so I assume).

I do need a versatile 3-jaw chuck with relatively large capacity (5-6"). I also need more precision than the average so the cheap Chinese stuff is not up to my standards.

Back 15 years ago when I got my first non-hobby lathe (a Habegger) I replaced the 4" chuck it had with a Bison (using the W20 back plate from the old chuck). I was happy with that chuck and it was not too costly.

I looked through the Bison catalog and could not see any back plate compatible with Hardinge taper.


So whats the best path to solution:

Find a set of outside jaws and grind to match?

Take the back plate off and fit it to another, perhaps new chuck?

Fuhgeddaboutit you just have to spend $$$ and get a new chuck?

I might have a spare set of os soft jaws for a 5" pb hardinge , that you can have (give me the dims of your jaws to check)

bill

btw. the back half of a pb hardinge chuck can be machined as a backplate for other chucks (i have two made from old hardinge chucks)

The chuck I have is a 5" Hardinge 30AHC "Made in England"

The jaws are (inches):
0.555 wide
0.330 wide across the grooved section
1.625 long

Any help with obtaining compatible jaws will be appreciated.

I overhauled the Hardinge 30AHC chuck this weekend. It now operates smoothly.

I noticed the design of the part with the Hardinge Taper is not conducive to making a back plate for a generic chuck. The projection of the taper forward of the plate flange seems to me to make it unsuitable for that purpose.

I'm hoping to find some extra jaws for this chuck (even if I have to grind them myself).

Anyone know of threads on PM about grinding chuck jaws?

cinematechnic said:

I overhauled the Hardinge 30AHC chuck this weekend. It now operates smoothly.

I noticed the design of the part with the Hardinge Taper is not conducive to making a back plate for a generic chuck. The projection of the taper forward of the plate flange seems to me to make it unsuitable for that purpose.

Click to expand...

You may have to relieve the back of the chuck slightly but there is usually a way :

here's a picture of my modified old Cushman ( adjustable on the back plate) .- I machined a bit too much of the backplate but it still works fine (it is a surprisingly good chuck)

Another way , if you want to mount close to the nose, is to machine the taper partially into the chuck (see pic of one of my 4JCs)

Hello,
Perhaps this is what your looking for?

LOT OF HARDINGE 3A8 SOFT JAWS | eBay

Regards,
Melle

Sent from my Lenovo TB-8704X using Tapatalk

Thanks to Bill Todd I have some outside jaws for my Hardinge 30AHC chuck.

Can anyone point me to any threads or references on grinding chuck jaws?

I was wondering: If I clamp with the tips of the part of the outside chuck jaws that go inside the through-bore - that part that never gets used on those type jaws - (it seems to me at least) that I could grind all the exposed jaw surfaces while the jaws are loaded. Then the jaws would be matched to my chuck.

I'd be using my Schaublin grinding attachment powered by a Sherline DC motor. I'd just need to make a riser plate for the HLV-H compound slide.

What do you guys think? Will it work?

That should do it. The outside jaws are easy to preload as you describe. I have done the same thing using a small Dumore grinder on one of my Hardinge lathes.

Preloading inner gripping surfaces of the one-piece inside jaws is trickier because the entire inside has to be ground. I made a crude but effective weldment out of four big flat washers to load the jaws in the correct direction.

Larry

Well if its any help ... I bought a 6" Pratt Burnerd 3 jaw SetRite (P/n.9219-01360) earlier this year and matching taper backplate (P/n.0605044) from the US. Superb chuck especially when set-up.

A lot of dollars but I intended it to last.

John