My 1970 Bridgeport BR2J 1.5HP - Recent Purchase

Evening all,

My 1st post but have been an avid spectator for many years now.

After putting up with a small mini-mill (Axminster/Sieg X2) I've finally managed to push the boat out and invest in a Bridgeport so starting this thread for info to others it may help and also to ask any questions I may have as I get her up and running.

It was up for sale on eBay, advertised as
"BRIDGEPORT MILLING MACHINE
3 PHASE
WELL USED
HEAD A BIT NOISY
TABLE FEED NOT WORKING
NO TOOLING OR VICES INCLUDED"

I managed to get it for £485, which I think was OK, after taking into consideration it was located in Redditch (70 miles from me) and that I would need it transporting & unloading this end.

Hired a dropside transit (£75 + fuel), collected it and arranged for my friend (who drives a hiab lorry) to offload it into my garden (cost......16 cans of Guiness)

So far I've removed the motor and drive housings and found the cause of the "head a bit noisey" which was a rumbling motor bearing. As a temporary measure the motor bearings have been well lubed up and sound a hell of a lot better. Once I've inspected the rest of the machine, and got a list together,motor bearings will be replaced.

As I don't have a 3 phase supply, I bought a Huan Yang 220V 2.2KW 3HP 10A VFD (£94) and have today set all the basic parameters to run the motor and everything seems OK so far.

Will post a few before & after pictures as I go along and if anyone has any questions then please feel free to ask.

Your quill feed engage looks a bit thrashed. you want to get rid of that bolt in the quill lock and replace it with something about 1 inch long, while you have it off take the 2 bits that pinch the quill out and counterbore them to fit a coil spring to push them apart. this will keep the quill lock lever where you put it without the rubber band that everyone else uses. Do you have the fine feed handwheel?

moonlight machine said:

Your quill feed engage looks a bit thrashed. you want to get rid of that bolt in the quill lock and replace it with something about 1 inch long, while you have it off take the 2 bits that pinch the quill out and counterbore them to fit a coil spring to push them apart. this will keep the quill lock lever where you put it without the rubber band that everyone else uses. Do you have the fine feed handwheel?

Click to expand...

Yes the quill feed and several other levers have seen better days, I'll be repairing/replacing them as I go along. Unfortunately there was no fine feed handwheel, I'll either buy or make one.

Not entirely sure how to modify the quill lock as you suggest, I'll look into that and consider it. I assume the mod is done to stop the quill lock winding itself on?

Spent a few more hours on the BP today, namely removing the X axis power feed and table (so I could fit it through the workshop door), moving it into the workshop, Egyptian style,on a pair of 2" round bars.

Came across a few issues whilst stripping down further:-

* Y axis was solid, found the Gib strip broken where the adjusting screw slot is, looks to have had a previous repair as there are signs of brazing

* Y axis cross feed nut retaining screw broken, when winding the Y it actually pulled out the brass nut so will need to sort that

Freed off the ram as it was seized, now move-able but will clean lube further.

Many of the issues so far I think are down to the ways being pumped full of grease rather than oiled, there's no oiler fitted so I have one on order Automatic Electric Dual Lubrication Oiler Pump Digital Display 22V 1.8L 1.Mpa | eBay

One question I have if you gents would be so kind. What is the Y axis gib strip made from, was thinking of welding/brazing on more metal where the break is then machining the adjust nut slot back in. It also appears to have a nylon/delron? coating on one face, is this commonplace?

Quick update, have done some searching and found that the coating on the gib strip is turcite.....who knew!

Have also seen how much a new gib strip is and even then it will need working on to suit, so repair it is!

Once you remove the bolt on the quill lock you can unscrew the bit that the long bolt was in. once it is out you can remove the pinch blocks. One has a through hole and the other is threaded. Oversize the through hole leaving a shoulder a the proper depth for your spring. the spring pushes the blocks apart so they don't drag on the quill and they put tension on the quill lock so it stays where you put it.

Makes sense now, thank you, will give that a whirl.