My yard find Bridgeport tear down and clean up with plenty of photos - Page 4
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  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antarctica View Post
    At this rate, I expect you'll be done next week...
    Naw, chips next week!
    JR

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  3. #62
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    Got the rest of the column back to bare metal along with the knee screw tower piece

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  4. #63
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    Your making great progress. I just got mine on the floor of the shop today and evaluating it a little better. Mine appears to have .010 extra slop in the the middle of the x screw compared to the ends and .015 more in the nut for approx. .030 total backlash in X. Y is pretty good at .008 in he middle or .005 at the ends. I can feel some wear in the ways too but has a acceptable and useable range where I need it for now. Wish I could follow your path as I love doing that kind of work but I need to put it in service for a while first and have too many irons in the fire already to start another project. I am just going to pull all three gibs and clean and clean some more, make sure my oiling is flowing and put it to work. I may split the nut on the x to see how to do and how well that works to tighten it up a little and to feel like I give it a little love. I may get caught up here in a few weeks and do a bottom dissassembly and super clean and eval. I can just feel that it would operate smoother if I could take time to do that. Keep throwing down on yours and make it good and beautiful and I will have to live vicariously through your efforts for a while.

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  6. #64
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    You're really going at it. Now I want to tear down my recently purchased B'Port, but then it would never get back together. I still haven't gotten around to wiring up the VFD due to cold weather (no heat in the shop).

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  8. #65
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    Thanks guys

    Been held up by freezing temperatures but warming up a bit now,

    This weekend I went over all the bare metal parts quickly with a d/a sander just to knock off any lumps I missed with the needle scaler,

    Now I am not filling and sanding the castings like most people, I don’t want to and although it will look 100 times better I just don’t think it warrants it, the way it’s done with bare metal then enamel primer and top coat from an aerosol can means and future paint just requires a light key up and a blast from a can,

    I used 2 cans to get the column in primer, could really of done with 1 more but it’s only the primer so no dramas,

    I have plenty of cans for top coat so will do 2 or 3 top coats tomorrow night
    A few closeups showing the roughness of the bare casting and the colum in primer

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  9. #66
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    Sorry about the sideways photos, if I upload from my phone, no matter what I do the photos end up on their side!!! Very annoying

  10. #67
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    Thought I’d show this for anyone wanting to do the same thing, just showing the way I lifted the colum to bolt the new bars and castors on

    I used a 1” steel bar hooked under the internal webbing and a lifting sling

    The balance point is almost perfect but not quite, just make sure you use a nice wide strap so it does not slip on the bar causing the weight to shift and end up injuring anyone

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    Please remember to put props under the machine base before you put your hands under it etc just incase the sling or bar slips

  11. #68
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    Got all the main parts in primer today,

    Still a few smaller parts to do like the table end plate, the actual main motor casing and the 2 power feed motors and housings and I’ve just realised I haven’t stripped the paint from the speed change cover so need to do that as well

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  12. #69
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    Awesome work restoring this old Bridgeport! I have never taken one this far apart before. Looking forward to watching it finished. I think you WILL actually finish it too.

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  14. #70
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    Thanks

    My plan was to paint it in an Aerosol paint from a local car parts company same as i painted the quill housing already but my current problem is the weather in the uk is non stop rain and i cant spray anymore aerosol in my garage as its covering everything with overspray! luckily the paint i used on the quill is an actual RAL colour (Mouse gray) so i have order this colour from an industrial paint supplier in 4 litre can suitable for brush application, this way the weather will not hold me up for the next few weeks and i can get stuck in as we have a 4 day bank holiday this weekend

    I used a RAL colour in brush application and although it takes a lot longer to do than an aerosol it goes on thicker and does not leave and obvious brush marks and will probably be a better finish in the end

    Whilst i wait for the paint to arrive i will start to strip and prime the other small parts as they can be done in a small outdoor shed where the overspray does not matter

    I also removed all paint and polished up the speed change housing today at work so the complete top half except the motor casing as that is steel will now be polished/satin finish

    Thanks for your kind comments and following the restoration

    Marc

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    Marc,
    Just my $0.02 worth but since you have a UK machine with the closed hollow base, I'd cover the coolant holes. The sump in the base is terrible to keep clean and if left to fill with oil will just get rancid. Just my opinion.

    Just go ahead and bitch about the rain. We got 6" of heavy wet snow Saturday. SWMBO had a heck of a time scooping.
    JR

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    Quote Originally Posted by JRIowa View Post
    Marc,
    Just my $0.02 worth but since you have a UK machine with the closed hollow base, I'd cover the coolant holes. The sump in the base is terrible to keep clean and if left to fill with oil will just get rancid. Just my opinion.

    Just go ahead and bitch about the rain. We got 6" of heavy wet snow Saturday. SWMBO had a heck of a time scooping.
    JR
    Oh man is that good advice! When I got my big Webb 4VH, it had been run in a production shop with coolant for years. It has a large inspection door on the left side of the base and two drains in the front, one on either side of the table screw.

    It took two days to clean out the 3" of semi-solidified goo in the bottom of the base. I had to scoop it out, one scoop at a time. I went through several rolls of paper towels and quart of Simple Green to get it fairly clean. Then I filled the base with oil-dry pellets about 1/2" deep and closed it up.

    I also removed the screens from the drains and made plates that screw on to cover them. I wont soon forget that job. LOL.

  17. #73
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    I totally agree about the base coolant chamber, when I got the mill it had been sat outside for just over 6 months uncovered and it had years of swarf and gunk in it which I had to scoop out by hand with rubber gloves on, it was truly rotten in there

    I will either block the drain squares up as you mention or I will just keep on top of it as I always clean my machines after 3 or 3 times using them,


    With the rain still coming down I got the brush application paint today, same RAL code (7005) so thought I’d give the main components a coat, it took approx 90 mins to do these bits

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    I ordered 4 litres of paint which is too much to be fair so I will probably give everything 4 coats

  18. #74
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    I am still to primer my power feeds and my machine has the rare Y axis powerfeed and the more common X axis,

    Here they are all stripped down along with the ram bridgeport signs

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  19. #75
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    New potentiometers and new rapid traverse switches

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    Had to etch prime the aluminium parts of the powerfeeds and I also etch primed the table end cover as I’d forgotten before when I primed the main parts

    These only need the one coat of etch then I will give them one coat of the grey enamel primer that was used on the large main components as I don’t want any colour variation between parts due to primer colour

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  23. #77
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    At some point I will also be stripping the paint from the main 1.5hp motor and the 2 power feed motor casings,

    The main motor doesn’t need a rebuild as it runs smooth as can be so I will leave the casing in situ to paint, il do the same with the motors once they are re wired and cleaned internally

  24. #78
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    I done the 3rd top coat today on the main components and gave the aluminium powerfeed parts a coat of grey enamel primer so tomorrow no get I will do the final top coat on the main parts and the first top coat on the powerfeed parts

    Then when everything has had its 4th top coat I will leave it 5 days to harden fully before I start to re assemble,

    Looking forward to putting it back together now

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  26. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by M K View Post
    I done the 3rd top coat today on the main components and gave the aluminium powerfeed parts a coat of grey enamel primer so tomorrow no get I will do the final top coat on the main parts and the first top coat on the powerfeed parts

    Then when everything has had its 4th top coat I will leave it 5 days to harden fully before I start to re assemble,

    Looking forward to putting it back together now
    Wrong, the paint you are using never fully hardens like real paint. It's a fact, so don't shoot the messenger...

    It may take quite a bit of time for all those staggered coats to harden. Just saying from experience.

  27. #80
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    Ah, I stand corrected then

    Anyway the paint has dried and I have been cracking on with re assembly but I am going to jump ahead here as I’m after some help and opinions on a vibration/noise I have from the rebuilt head in high gear

    I have rebuilt with the H&W head rebuild and so I for rebuild kit and I found no visable wear but I have a very horrible noise in the high gear at higher rpm that I’d like to solve and get rid of so please see the link to a video I done specifically and uploaded to YouTube

    Any help would be appreciated and I will continue with the rebuild where I left off when I get some time at the computer

    Thanks
    Marc

    Help with bridgeport head noise - YouTube


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