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Riser Plate for Tripan Toolpost on Hardinge HLV-H

cinematechnic

Cast Iron
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Location
Walnut Creek, CA
I'm planning to make a riser plate so I can use a Tripan 111 toolpost on my newly acquired Hardinge HLV-H. I'm looking for suggestions on materials and machining / heat treating.

The Tripan is a small high quality Swiss made quick change toolpost commonly seen on Schaublin lathes.

I've determined that 5/16" of riser plate puts the Tripan 111 where it needs to be. I was planning on making the plate from ground flat stock. The question is: What grade to use.

In the past I've used Starrett 498 low carbon as for its machinability. However, this riser plate needs to work with a hardened tool post. Of course, the compound slide it will rest on is not hardened (assuming it is high quality cast iron).

I'm thinking I can get the plate water-jet cut, so that machinability is less of an issue. I'll trim the edges on my mill to clean them up afterward.

Ideally I'd prefer to make something that does not need to be sent out to be hardened, but I won't rule that out if that's the best way to go.

BTW: I make mostly small precision parts and take light cuts. The compactness of the Tripan 111 is an advantage and I won't be using more than 0.5 HP of spindle power so I'm well within the range for that post. For bigger jobs I have larger toolposts that I will be able to swap to.

Thanks in advance!
 
I'm planning to make a riser plate so I can use a Tripan 111 toolpost on my newly acquired Hardinge HLV-H. I'm looking for suggestions on materials and machining / heat treating.

The Tripan is a small high quality Swiss made quick change toolpost commonly seen on Schaublin lathes.

I've determined that 5/16" of riser plate puts the Tripan 111 where it needs to be. I was planning on making the plate from ground flat stock. The question is: What grade to use.

In the past I've used Starrett 498 low carbon as for its machinability. However, this riser plate needs to work with a hardened tool post. Of course, the compound slide it will rest on is not hardened (assuming it is high quality cast iron).

I'm thinking I can get the plate water-jet cut, so that machinability is less of an issue. I'll trim the edges on my mill to clean them up afterward.

Ideally I'd prefer to make something that does not need to be sent out to be hardened, but I won't rule that out if that's the best way to go.

BTW: I make mostly small precision parts and take light cuts. The compactness of the Tripan 111 is an advantage and I won't be using more than 0.5 HP of spindle power so I'm well within the range for that post. For bigger jobs I have larger toolposts that I will be able to swap to.

Thanks in advance!

Don't make a problem out of a solution. ANY metal will protect the top of the compound.
Preserving the bottom of the Tripan is more valuable than preserving the riser, so do NOT harden the riser. It is the cheapest player, hence "sacrificial", so to speak.

I'd cut it on the chop saw, power hacksaw, hand hacksaw, or the mill you were going to set up in to true it anyway. You can get that done in less time that you can drive to a water-jet or laser fab and back, even if they did it while-you-wait.

The heavy washer idea or lathe-turning a round riser, not square, have a lot of merit, too. Most especially if you KNOW you will be swapping toolposts.

Give it a re-think, should be faster and easier than the NASA project you started out with.

As it is NOT a deep-space shot?

You are allowed to change it if you aren't pleased with the first go!

:)
 
Give it a re-think, should be faster and easier than the NASA project you started out with.

As it is NOT a deep-space shot?

I like to think of myself as a recovering over-engineer. Recovering does not mean cured...

I did think about the circular flat riser idea, but I'm leaning towards making it out of 1.5" wide 5/16 low carbon ground flat stock. It would only take a few cuts and one hole and it would have maximum contact area under the toolpost.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
I like to think of myself as a recovering over-engineer. Recovering does not mean cured...
You've come to the right website, but b'long in the Southbent forum where they have others like you who will DIY anything, including their own paints, lubricants, shop-rags and SB-branded toilet-tissue. Frugal as well as clever, that lot can be.

Hardinge, y'see, wasn't like other machine tool builders. No DIY expected.

Not at all. Hardinge had "infrastructure". A price and SKU number for every possible accessory known to man, Bronze-age onward - and another whole price-list for those as were only ever but dreamt of. Second list generally in-stock. First list usually in "Backorder" status. Go figure..

Two days after you finish and fit this bit of kit, three Hardinge Tripan adaptors will show up on eBay.

OTOH, they'll be asking $400 each for an itty-bitty chunk of ignorant steel plate, black oxide finished and branded, so...

:)
 








 
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