Are there any 5" or even 4" 3 jaw chucks available with Hardinge taper mount...that

Are there any 5" or even 4" 3 jaw chucks available with Hardinge taper mount...that

if used, still look as new and the second set of jaws are not lost.....or what might be available new that is high quality ?

What came with the lathe is a 6" Buck adjust thru with reversible jaws, which is a great chuck but just seems too large for some things.

I recently (but before I bought this Hardinge lathe) sold an NOS 5" Buck Adjust Thu, still in original box with second set of jaws still wrapped in antirust paper, plus inspection report and manual.....but luckily it had the threaded mount for an HC chucker model....so now I don't have to build a plywood ass kicking machine, for selling it

Milacron said:

if used, still look as new and the second set of jaws are not lost.....or what might be available new that is high quality ?

What came with the lathe is a 6" Buck adjust thru with reversible jaws, which is a great chuck but just seems too large for some things.

I recently (but before I bought this Hardinge lathe) sold an NOS 5" Buck Adjust Thu, still in original box with second set of jaws still wrapped in antirust paper, plus inspection report and manual.....but luckily it had the threaded mount for an HC chucker model....so now I don't have to build a plywood ass kicking machine, for selling it

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It's rare that used Hardinge 3 jaws with both sets of matching jaws show up.


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Milacron said:

if used, still look as new and the second set of jaws are not lost.....

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Sheesh! "Low Country" humour? That was a joke, right?

or what might be available new that is high quality ?

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I'd certainly look at ToS Svitavy for 3-Jaw. They start at 80 mm / 3" +.

Hardinge taper mount you would probably have to source separately and fit yerself.

On-Edit/Update. Have to run an trench to confirm it is in the debris field, but I think I have one such backplate around that has to come off in favour of a D1-3 anyway. Yours if you can use it, this task or some other Hardingy-thingy.

UPDATE TWO: Found it. No Joy. Hardinge proprietary backplate on it alright, but their threaded spindle option, not the taper one.

I have two NOS 5" 3-jaw Ajust-Tru chucks for Hardinge lathes, but no NOS Hardinge taper six screw adapters. Both chucks have the oversize 2.75" bore for the adapter stub, required to fit the Hardinge taper adapter. Standard 5" AT chucks have a 2.50" bore.

1. "Buck Forkardt" #2535 with key, two sets of solid jaws, instructions and inspection report dated 26Jan98.

2. "Hardinge by Buck Chuck" #2534 with key and two sets of solid jaws. There is no date mark on this chuck.

Both Buck and Pratt Burnerd sold Hardinge taper adapters for these chucks. I think Buck adapters were cast iron and PBA adapters were steel, but I don't know what they are like these days. PBA Setrite chucks use the same six screw adapter as Buck Ajust-Tru chucks, so you can mix and match chucks and adapters. Just watch out for the short-lived redesign of the Adjust-Tru chucks that were called AT+ and the newer ATSC model, which use a totally different adapter with three screws.

On my own Hardinge lathes, I use a pair of Buck Ajust-Tru 4" 6-jaw chucks on 5C mounts when I want a smaller jaw chuck. I say pair because it is a pain to swap out six jaws, so I keep two chucks with opposite jaws installed and ready to use. The 5C mounts, often called 5C fixture plates, are cheap (unless you buy from Hardinge) and easy to find. The 4 degree taper chuck adapters or fixture plates are expensive and scarce.

SHARS 1" X 4" PRECISION 5C FIXTURE MOUNT LATHE FACE PLATE NEW

Larry

You may want to reconcider making that arse kicking machine. It's not difficult to machine a taper into the threaded back plates.

Billtodd said:

You may want to reconcider making that arse kicking machine. It's not difficult to machine a taper into the threaded back plates.

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There's another factor needs a glance at.

I have a 3" nominal, 80 mm actual 4800 RPM-rated 4-J with but a 50 mm spigot recess at the back.

Point comes, it starts to get hard to find the "meat" on a backplate - re-purposed used ones especially - to fit those small diameters and still avoid the features and fasteners on the spindle side of the plate.

Five-inch might be more practical than even a four-inch, then leave any desire for 3" to those with tails for the collet system or spindle ID taper + arse-threads for drawbar.

L Vanice said:

Both Buck and Pratt Burnerd sold Hardinge taper adapters for these chucks. I think Buck adapters were cast iron and PBA adapters were steel.
Larry

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PBA certainly do make machined or unmachined steel 5" and 6" 4°taper Hardinge backplates as I bought one of each in October last year

John

Can be done.

Monarchist said:

There's another factor needs a glance at.

I have a 3" nominal, 80 mm actual 4800 RPM-rated 4-J with but a 50 mm spigot recess at the back.

Point comes, it starts to get hard to find the "meat" on a backplate - re-purposed used ones especially - to fit those small diameters and still avoid the features and fasteners on the spindle side of the plate.

Five-inch might be more practical than even a four-inch, then leave any desire for 3" to those with tails for the collet system or spindle ID taper + arse-threads for drawbar.

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Billtodd said:

Can be done.

View attachment 197517

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Nicely done, too! D1-3 here though...

There's a half-tidy 4-jaw just finishing on eBay UK in the next hour and a bit. THe guy did sell a 3-jaw with inside,outside and soft jaws but it couldn't ever be described as 'as-new'.

Billtodd said:

You may want to reconcider making that arse kicking machine. It's not difficult to machine a taper into the threaded back plates.

Click to expand...

LOL.... it's looking like you may be right....ouch ! Below is the eBay link to the beauty I let go just a month or so before this Hardinge came to me by surprise.

Amazingly enough I got the darn thing for free....was in with the tooling for my Schaublin 102N-VM lathe (along with the proper Schaublin chucks thank goodness) Amazing the dealer that sold me the lathe was so stupid as to let that go with it, when it was so obvious it wouldn't actually fit the Schaublin. Actually got another Hardinge 3 jaw chuck with it as well, but that one was 6 inch and not NOS...looked pretty good though but had the obligatory missing second set of jaws.

There must be another dimension chocked full of chuck jaws, Optima drill sharpener tooling and socks.

Buck Adjust Thru Three Jaw chuck for Hardinge threaded mount - 5 inch, NOS ! | eBay

IMHO, this is the perfect HLV-H size chuck....while the 6 inch one has more capacity, it just takes up too much real estate, esp with those huge reversible jaws poking out.

I have a 3 and 4 jaw 5" Hardinge (Buck) chucks. The 4 jaw has reversible jaws the three jaw is missing the second set of jaws.

FYI mine are not threaded but the taper lock

My taper mount has a circular step where the lock screw is. As wide as the screw point and about .050 deep.

Until you find an adapter plate, why not utilize the same stop-gap I did when looking for a L0 Backplate I needed for a 3" chuck, which was also for similar reasons. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos.

1. true up a bar that the new chuck can grab in it's mid range (all jaw teeth engaged with the scroll).
2. Mount a disk of metal larger than the chuck body to the back of the smaller chuck.
3. Grab true'd up bar with small chuck, and true up the disk.
4. install small chuck into large chuck using the just machined disk's OD & back surface.
5. Run a test bar in the small chuck to make sure everything is centered and straight.

It is Hokie but it will get you running. If both chucks are in decent condition you might be able to get away with just grabbing the chuck body with the big chuck's jaws.

Rich C.

crij said:

Until you find an adapter plate, why not utilize the same stop-gap I did when looking for a L0 Backplate I needed for a 3" chuck, which was also for similar reasons. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos.

1. true up a bar that the new chuck can grab in it's mid range (all jaw teeth engaged with the scroll).
2. Mount a disk of metal larger than the chuck body to the back of the smaller chuck.
3. Grab true'd up bar with small chuck, and true up the disk.
4. install small chuck into large chuck using the just machined disk's OD & back surface.
5. Run a test bar in the small chuck to make sure everything is centered and straight.

It is Hokie but it will get you running. If both chucks are in decent condition you might be able to get away with just grabbing the chuck body with the big chuck's jaws.

Rich C.

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Milacron objected to the overhang and size of his 6" chuck on his 10" lathe, so clamping a 4" or 5" chuck in the 6" chuck is not the solution he seeks.

It is a good solution for a 24" lathe with a 20" chuck when you want to mount a 6" chuck.

Larry

Well it worked fine for me on a 13"x36" Colchester holding a 4" with a 10.5", to machine a 1/2" rod. In my case since everything was being done on the lathe, I didn't make the adapter plate, just grabbed the small chuck by it's body and everything stayed concentric to itself (only worked on about 3" of length). Then again the 10.5" Union chuck is narrow (about 2.5" thick), probably 1/2-1/3 the thickness of my 8" 6 jaw adjust-tru chuck.

On an adjacent tangent, I wonder if Buck might have Master jaws that would fit Milicron's chuck, then he would buy 2 sets of upper jaws, one with a small flat at the tips for fine work, and one set machined with the standard profile.

Rich C.