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Tru Trace Manual control?

CCL4

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Location
NY USA
Hello all,
I'm curious if anyone has any experience with the Bridgeport Tru Trace mills in original configuration, as opposed to the Tru Trace add on to a manual Bridgeport. I have the opportunity to buy one at a significant discount, but would need to add manual control as this would be my only mill. Would it be as simple as buying the appropriate manual micrometer controls, or is there more to it? The other concern is whether the T-ram head can be inclined like a normal vertical mill. There appears to be a crank for the knee, but not the table x and y. I know that Tru Trace recommends that ball screws be used with their aftermarket system, so I'm wondering if this mill has them straight from the factory. Any hints and info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Usually the easiest way to use a tracer as a manual/conventional mill is to place a straight edge on your pattern / sample / template table and trace that straight edge using your valve body adjustment ways to make X and Y axis moves. We used to just trace the side of the table for the X axis move and use a T-square clamped to the table for the Y. Stunderand???
 
There are several variations of the Bridgeport tracer mill. Some with manual controls, some without. If your's is without, I would take a pass. Yes they can be converted, I believe a guy on this forum did it, but at considerable time and cost.

BTW, I've got one w/o any manual controls, I use it strictly as a tracer.

Mike
 
Knedvecki, I'm pretty sure I understand what you mean. The valve will give you a linear move because its tracing the straight edge, and by valve body ways you mean the knobs that look like a regulator adjustment? If I understand correctly, this would give you an X or Y change in position because you're changing the neutral or origin position of the valve. Or at least the valve would think so. Do I have that at all right?, I might not.... Because I've never used any kind of duplicator mill or lathe, I don't quite understand how you initiate tracing your part. MDH, I'll do some more digging and maybe I can find some posts about his conversion. Do you what name he goes by? My other option is to buy what I'm guessing is an 80's Millrite MVN. Both seem to be in good condition. I was a little more interested in the Bridgeport just because I would think it would be more rigid and have more attachment availability etc. Thanks for the information guys.
 
"Knedvecki, I'm pretty sure I understand what you mean. The valve will give you a linear move because its tracing the straight edge, and by valve body ways you mean the knobs that look like a regulator adjustment? If I understand correctly, this would give you an X or Y change in position because you're changing the neutral or origin position of the valve. Or at least the valve would think so. Do I have that at all right?, I might not.... Because I've never used any kind of duplicator mill or lathe, I don't quite understand how you initiate tracing your part."

Yes, you can turn off one or both of the axis movements using the valves on the valve body, But..... what I was trying to explain was to use the ways that the Tracer Valve itself, the one that the stylus mounts in, to fine adjust location for X and Y. If you turn off the "regulator adjustment", you have no way off moving the cutter into position, as the axis is locked. I used to run Kopy-kat, Tree, Gorton, and Bridgeport, all using the True-Trace Tracer to manufacture aircraft parts. I also ran Cincinatti Hydrotel old style and with Gettys Dyna-par. Do you have the manual for your True-Trace valve body and can you tell me the model number? I may have a copy of the manual.
 
I don't have the model yet, but can find out. I'm going to take a look at the mill after the weekend and get the details. Thanks for your help.
 








 
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