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Used DRO for Bridgeport Mill?

beeser

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 3, 2015
Having just acquired my first mill, a Bridgeport manufactured in 2007 I would now like to get a DRO. Are used ones a good way to save some money?
 
Quality doesn't cost, it pays...

I'd like to think that I bought a quality mill by purchasing a Bridgeport but it was used and in good condition. I doubt not much would've been gained by spending more for a new machine based on my needs. I was just looking to do the same with a DRO unless there is some extra consideration that I'm not aware of.
 
OK short answer NO ! Rarely do you find a used DRO that is functioning,unless it is still on the machine. In many cases scales etc. no longer available . Buy new get warranty!! DROpros sell a good reasonably priced systems,IMO ya got the money Newall is the best. Newall scale mounting system is tits !
 
Many DROs are glass scales.
These scales do not like to be removed from the machine or shipped unless the original shipping lock down brackets are in place.
Few people save these so the loose reader head knocks or scars the scale.
Making it work fine everywhere but the one spot you need. Certainly not always but it is common.
Then again, maybe you find a used one from someone who knows just how easy it is to ruin a scale.

Not a real problem on mag scales but sometimes these are removed by rather unknowing people or shipped badly and get bent.

Many low buck brand new options out there now. Perhaps better than rolling the dice.
Bob
 
As others have said, buying used has risks and makes no sense. I have installed a SINO brand on my Bp clone and it works perfect. SINO is the the maker of DROpro DROs.
 
I bought a used Bridgeport with a used DRO on it. The owner said the DRO worked up until just recently, but for some reason the head didn't work when I showed up to see it. So the owner knocked $500 off the price of the mill for it. It was an older but good quality Mitutoyo unit. I later found an identical used head on ebay for $79. Hooked it up and it worked great. So far I'm very happy with my used DRO. A good quality new one, especially if 3 axis, will cost you big bucks. I wouldn't discount a good used unit from a reputable seller on ebay or especially from someone within driving distance where you can inspect before payment and taking delivery (I see used DROs on craigslist sometimes).
 
If you are going to install it yourself I recommend Newall. I installed a DP1200 (4 axes) on my mill, and love it. The installation is very straightforward, and the kit of fixturing pieces is very easy to use. Keep in mind that the DRO will probably be on the mill even after you sell it, which means it will have received a LOT of use. That is NOT the place to save money! A good DRO will let you hold tolerances far better than you can do with the backlash and wear in the used mill using the scales on the screw handles. Having features in the DRO like memorized points, centering, bolt circles, lines of holes, grids of holes, arcs, and tool offsets may not seem very important before you start using them, but once you do, they will be very important to your productivity. Getting a cheap/basic DRO may be attractive going in, but it is like tools from Harbor Freight. They may be affordable, but they rarely work well, or for long, and then you get mad and buy something quality, spending more than you would have if you bought the good stuff right away. And you have wasted a lot of time and emotional shoe leather trying to make a pig fly.
Bridgeport mills are incredibly versatile and useful tools. Once you get them tooled up with good stuff (proper vises and other work holding, boring heads, saws, a variety of good cutters, some indicators and so forth), I think you will be very inspired to use it for all sorts of unforseen jobs. They are not very rigid, and certainly not a good VMC, but good tooling and a good DRO can make amazing results possible.

Best wishes,
Michael
 
The Newall DP1200 looks impressive. Prices and variations really vary though. This is going to take some serious research to get the right one. If I get the 2 axis version can it be upgraded for additional axes?
 
@beeser The easy answer is no. If you buy a 2 axis box, you cannot add more axis to that box. However, if you truly would want a 3 or 4 axis in the long run, buy a 3 or 4 axis box and then only get 2 scales with it. If you are only looking at 3 axis, I personally would go with the DP700. It has most of the goodies that the 1200 has, minus the extra little screen. Most of my customers who get the DP1200 only have it because they have 4 axis or its a HUGE lathe and that extra screen and size is a big seller.

Also, just make sure you know that the DP500 is not at all interchangeable with the DP700 or DP1200 or their scales. Just a heads up.

Jon
H&W Machine Repair
 
Just to add a couple of cents worth . . .
With a new dro you get the complete mounting hardware kit which probably won't be with a used kit, as well as instructions on how to use the fancy features the dro may have, like bolt hole centers.

I cannot see real value in anything more that two axis on a Bridgeport. Third axis is either the knee, or the quill . . . places that you don't move far enough to need a scale. Not buying the third/fourth axis saves some coin so you can spend a little more on the main system.
 
What Red James says is partially true, as many people use their Bridgeport in a mostly 2D way. I have 3 axes enabled on my DP1200 at this time. I have the knee as the Z axis. What this does is allow me to make cuts and holes to size in the Z direction I cannot do using the quill alone (this axis has an indicator on it at the moment). It is not uncommon that I have to relocate the knee height to accommodate features , for example, which get in the way when I traverse the part under the tool. Setting the Z axis to 0.000 before I move it, allows me to drop the part, traverse the table, and then reposition exactly. Theoretically, this can be done by reading the Z axis scale, but I find it much more convenient and accurate to have the scale. With 3 axes of digital readout, you can also use the mill as a sort of Coordinate Measuring Machine, using edge finders and/or indicators. This can be pretty helpful sometimes.

The real problem is that you MAY be unfamiliar with the spectrum of machining possibilities which a well setup Bridgeport allows. Buying something 2D or cheap may make sense when you start, but I would not be surprised if after a year or so, you were chafing at the limitations that your original choice may have created. On the other hand, no one has infinitely deep pockets, and sometimes compromises must be made. Jon, at H&W had a very good point about buying a DP700 and only purchasing the scales for the X and Y axes right away. The incremental cost of a more sophisticated 3 axis display box is small, and you can add the third scale when you decide that you need it. I bought my Newall system from H&W, and although I am not affiliated with them in any way, I do feel free to say that they have always been extremely helpful and friendly.

You will find, I think, that buying tooling for the mill will be a long term continuing adventure. Starting with the fundamentals right will make it more pleasant. As an old geezer with bad shoulders, I would not even CONSIDER doing without my MaxiTorqueright power drawbar and the Servo power drive on the knee. One can certainly do without these, but they really make a difference to me.

In any case, Have fun. There are a huge variety of Youtube machinists who do a very good job showing how things can be done, and explaining various aspects of milling machines. I, and many other people, have found them interesting and helpful. Perhaps you will also.

Cheers,
Michael
 








 
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