Why was "hardinge hlv-h adapter" thread locked?

[rklopp]

It wasn't political or home-shoppish. What am I missing?

 

[JRIowa]

Did you read my reason at the bottom? I thought that I made it clear. "Adapter" tells me nothing. I'm just trying to follow the rules. I've locked several threads and nobody has complained until now.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...inform-what-your-topic-actually-about-307648/
JR

 

[WA-CNC]

A case of another mod locking a thread who has no imagination.

 

[thermite]

It wasn't political or home-shoppish. What am I missing?

New moderator. A tad "badge heavy", first few yards off the starting blocks. Meat axe in hand instead of first-aid kit for a title change.

No fear.

It's coming good again.

He started mellowing when folk ceased posting at all, same as Bro. Basset inspired in the now-fossilized metrology forum.

"Cats" y'see, be they pussy or tiger, never did respond well to "herding", and moderators just have to learn to live with that.

 

[Mark Rand]

You might have a different (administrators) view of the thread/subforum than the rest of us mortals! I can't see your comment anywhere in that page.

The title was a bit limited, but the thread was interesting.

PS:- Please ignore Bill. He seems to be on whatever Norman Atkinson was on before he popped his cloggs...


Regards
Mark

 

[thermite]

You might have a different (administrators) view of the thread/subforum than the rest of us mortals! I can't see your comment anywhere in that page.

The title was a bit limited, but the thread was interesting.

Regards
Mark

Keeping good content coming may need a title changed now and then, rather than a lock, often. Moderator can choose and implement either one.

 

[Stvy]

Hi,

It is a shame it was locked because I was trying to make a reply to it. I can see from your picture that there would be a touch more overhang from the bearings with this option than the taper noes or threaded nose versions.

Based on my own research via the internet and with speaking directly with hardinge back in 2015 it has to be one of the lathes equipped with the optional D1-3 camlock spindle nose. I tried to source one for my own rebuild. Not possible from Hardinge in Europe as they had no idea this option ever existed and couldn't be bothered or wouldn't arrange it via the US office for me. I then gave up and had my taper nose spindle nose repaired via a hard chrome and regrind. Luckily I got some assistance to get back plates via a most helpful member of this forum.


I suspect there would have been D1-3 mount closers for the step chucks. Do you have any?

Does anyone know if the USA and UK made spindles were different? If they are the same and if you are interested to replace this spindle with a more standard taper nose or threaded I would be interested to buy it. My spare spindles are not in as new condition so I don't propose to offer one of them as a swap.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[JRIowa]

PS:- Please ignore Bill.

Been doing that for a long time.
I knew I'd take crap for this and it doesn't really bother me from some. But others that don't know me, why don't you volunteer to take over? If you don't like what I've done, ask Don to replace me or change his rules.

I'll even leave this unlocked to see how many more want to complain.
JR

 

[rklopp]

JR, your reasons for locking never made it in before the lock on the other post, so it was a mystery to me, and apparently others, as to why it was locked. I have seen far worse in terms of less-descriptive titles that have been allowed to stand. Fortunately, the OP got useful answers before the lock.

 

[thermite]

Hi,

It is a shame it was locked because I was trying to make a reply to it. I can see from your picture that there would be a touch more overhang from the bearings with this option than the taper noes or threaded nose versions.

Based on my own research via the internet and with speaking directly with hardinge back in 2015 it has to be one of the lathes equipped with the optional D1-3 camlock spindle nose. I tried to source one for my own rebuild. Not possible from Hardinge in Europe as they had no idea this option ever existed and couldn't be bothered or wouldn't arrange it via the US office for me. I then gave up and had my taper nose spindle nose repaired via a hard chrome and regrind. Luckily I got some assistance to get back plates via a most helpful member of this forum.


I suspect there would have been D1-3 mount closers for the step chucks. Do you have any?

I didn't even think of it at the time I was searching, but Hardinge did have some lathes of their own with D1, so, yeah they must have existed, just as the Monarch ones do.

I bought the goods to MAKE mine ONTO a D1-3, forged-steel NOS Bison backplate, not CI Shars, as the Hardinge threaded nose I was able to find adds a lot of hangout.

The major advantage over the one-size-only Monarch one is that with this unit one can swap back-closer rings from 2" clear up to 7" and need but the one body for all sizes, and in standard, deep, and extra deep step chuck, the position being adjustable as part of setting up the closing action.

Does anyone know if the USA and UK made spindles were different?

"spindle?" or "closer?" AFAIK, pre-metric conversion, UK, no diff. Post-metric conversion the DIN or ISO spec on a D1 is dimensionally the same as the US spec, so D1 goods should interchange, regardless of which nomenclature is used. More especially with so many of the backplates coming out of neither - eg: Asia.

Seems to me Bison or Ladner would have different columns in tables of backplate or chuck offerings were it otherwise?

 

[thermite]

Been doing that for a long time.
I knew I'd take crap for this and it doesn't really bother me from some. But others that don't know me, why don't you volunteer to take over? If you don't like what I've done, ask Don to replace me or change his rules.

I'll even leave this unlocked to see how many more want to complain.
JR

Folk as don't bitch about Moderators are plotting against the government. Part of the job. Nothing personal about it - EITHER direction. Don't take it so. Don't make it so.

 

[rons]

Folk as don't bitch about Moderators are plotting against the government. Part of the job. Nothing personal about it - EITHER direction. Don't take it so. Don't make it so.

The way this guy keeps coming back for more. Four times now, get ready for lucky five. 1: 2: 3: 4: 5: (fill in the blank)

 

[Oldwrench]

This thread is technically interesting and should not have been locked. It had HLV-H right in the title, FFS, on a Hardinge subforum. As the premier lathe used in aerospace, electronics and prototype machine work right up until the advent of CNC, the discussion of a rare variant of the HLV has value. The OP cannot be blamed for assuming a D1-3 nose on that machine was some kind of adapter. It sure got my attention.

 

[L Vanice]

Getting back to the original topic of HLV-H with camlock:

I have a November, 1983 Hardinge HLV-H sales brochure that only mentions the standard Hardinge taper nose spindle with an admission that they would provide the standard threaded nose on order. No mention of camlock.

But I have a January, 1984 PL-7A HLV-H/TFB-H parts list that shows part numbers for spindles as follows:
Taper nose LH0000283
Threaded nose LH0000283 D
Camlock nose LH0000283 C

The parts drawing does not show the camlock spindle or the locking cams. With luck, the small parts (cams and screws or whatever) are standard and can be bought or robbed from some other lathe brand.

I think the camlock spindle HLV-H lathes are very rare. I do wonder how one would deal with step chuck closers and some other of the special Hardinge tooling for that version.

Larry

 

[FredC]

Since we are discussing the original post again, could the lathe be a HLV and not a HLV-H? The bed seems a little narrow compared to the spindle nose cap. Maybe camera prospective?
It has been too many years since I have even seen a cam lock spindle and I have never taken one apart. Maybe one of you can give the OP a hint on how to remove one of the good cams. That may reveal clues on how to get the broken one out.

 

[thermite]

Since we are discussing the original post again, could the lathe be a HLV and not a HLV-H? The bed seems a little narrow compared to the spindle nose cap. Maybe camera prospective?
It has been too many years since I have even seen a cam lock spindle and I have never taken one apart. Maybe one of you can give the OP a hint on how to remove one of the good cams. That may reveal clues on how to get the broken one out.

I have the spares for D1-3 - bought from Mackit, but am holding-off installing them. I have a spare 10EE spindle, I cannot in good faith offer pull-outs. They can fail. It is not worth a risk. New ones recommended.

Hardinge will be exactly to the same spec, no wiggle room, and Mackit are the go-to for the in-spindle-nose locks, no difference, US or Metric. Also for the US-threaded camlock studs. My metric ones are from Shars or came with imported goods. I much prefer the stronger US studs.

All things D1-3'ish including DY from scratch - not just backplate, but spindle equivalent as well - and oh, BTW, DIY pot chucks from bare metal, too - are well covered, "right here on PM", Monarch forum, mostly. A 10EE never used anything BUT D1-3.

Most 10EE are also OLD, so work to tune-up their D1-3 and fasteners has been ongoing.

BTW - The draw-in camlock is retained by the bore it is in, plus a spring. Details as above.

On the basis of that commonality alone, feel free to dig there for information, or even bring the need for more info over to the Monarch Forum, and you will get HELPED rather than ... whatever TF it is as is afoot???

Dunno who "shot JR" but the one we USED TO KNOW seems to have been kidnapped..

 

[L Vanice]

Since we are discussing the original post again, could the lathe be a HLV and not a HLV-H? The bed seems a little narrow compared to the spindle nose cap. Maybe camera prospective?
It has been too many years since I have even seen a cam lock spindle and I have never taken one apart. Maybe one of you can give the OP a hint on how to remove one of the good cams. That may reveal clues on how to get the broken one out.

The picture shows the screw that holds the head to the bed, so it is definitely an HLV-H. The 1950 model HLV did not have such a screw.

Larry

 

[triumph406]

How about unlocking that thread?

Or is that "against the rules?"

 

[JRIowa]

This thread is technically interesting and should not have been locked.

The thread was interesting and that's why I left it open as long as I did. If you don't want me to follow Don's rules, find somebody else to do this job. He states that the thread title should actually mean something. Model and adaptor mean nothing. There are many ways to improve the title so I'm leaving that up to athe OP.

As far as this thread goes, It's been hijacked, so the JR bashing is probably finished.
JR

On edit, Bill has to have the last word.

 

[hitandmiss]

Another Bill here:

For the OP: edit your first post and select "go advanced" then you can edit the thread title for your problem that has hijacked this thread.