James, if the compound is a concern, get an L-6 square turret toolholder for cheap. It will fasten to the cross-slide in the same way that the compound does. You will no longer have a compound, but ask yourself "how often do I really need this capability?" In the meantime, you will have a handy turret toolholder and not have to worry about repairing the compound until you are ready. I have seen them sell for as low as $50 and as much as $150.
To get you going, I'll loan you one that somebody had "opened up" the tool slot to accept 1/2" tools. You may have to shim smaller bits to get the proper tool height, but that's no big deal. All I ask is that you pay the shipping both ways, and agree to send it back in the next 6 months. Of course, even flat-rate shipping is around $22 for both directions - and that would get you started towards buying your own.
I went over to Jims house this mourning and the machine is worn but not that bad I adjusted the gibs and put a shim behind the crossslide gib and that tightened everything up nice. The lathe had what appeared to be new nuts and screws it spent time in mexico so it wouldnt surprise me if it had a shim on the cross slide and when it was reassembled they left it out. The rack gear has some wear but he is going to run it and see how things go if it causes trouble we will swap it end for end the rear rack is perfect.
The bed looks good no groves and it is not tight on the ends. I think he has a decent machine i would have paid what he paid for it, it was a good deal it came with lots of tooling.
FWIW, on the East Coast anyway the TFB Hardinge takes a *major* hit on value, such that at auction a first generation TFB would be lucky to top $800...and that's assuming relatively clean, under power and nothing obvious wrong with it.
Originally Posted by kpotter
dovetail bed wear?
of course we've all heard the horror stories about the hlvh's with 1/8" dip worn in the bed plate but what does it really take to wear these things out? my case in point:
i just recently bought an HC from a shop run by by total dumbass neanderthals: brand new VMC's with rust all over the tables, brand new tapping heads laying on the floor, a pair of bridgeports with the tail ends of the rams chopped off so they could be pushed closer to an old shelf on the wall, big grinding wheel chucked up in a lathe.....
this particular hardinge looked like it had been pretty well raped: the bed wiper near the head stock had been removed because it interfered with the half assed DRO install and the whole area between the DRO scale and bed was tightly packed with steel chips. i cleaned it away to reveal a very badly scored bed but despite that the carriage is tight as can be all along the full length of the bed, no wear, no play and no tightening up towards the end of travel.
so i'm just thinking that these things take a lot more to wear out than people realize.
Funny, I have just the opposite impression in the sense that I figure most folks think because that bed is so wide and hardened steel that it can't wear....but I know better with real world experience.
Originally Posted by ZAGNUT
I owned a 1960's HLV-H about 15 years ago where the bed looked just fine but the wear near the headstock was so bad I ordered a new bed for it. But then realized it was going to be such a PITA to install it, I never did...sold the whole shebang to someone else.
Then about 10 years ago was at an aerospace type auction in Warner Robbins, GA and there was a current generation HLV-H, made about 1982, that looked pretty nice. But I was astounded to find that I could lift up on the apron about 1/8" near the headstock, but it was tight near the tailstock. No scoring, looked fine just to look at it. Naturally the bidding on it went just as high as it would have with no bed wear as the bidders didn't even bother to check out the machine...they just assumed it being that late and nice looking it would be fine.
Hardinge /group Initiation? thanks to everyone and Kpotter !
What an initiation to the Group.
I believe this is an example of a great forum in action!
I went from total panic to logical (some crazy) reasoning and ultimately a hands on solution, learning a ton in the process.
To recap, I am building my first machine shop having last touched a lathe 30 years ago, whilst building the walls to the shop I am also acquiring the machines to fill it , due to the absolute fixed budget (social insecurity) I have no room for error.
Well I thought I blew it on my first purchase of the Hardinge but you guys WOULD NOT HAVE IT! Instead within a few days of my purchase I had the answers I needed and ultimately Kevin KPOTTER (having somehow stumbled on this post) came over and we now have the machine tighter than I could have hoped for, big thanks to all and thank you Kevin!
I will be posting progress on the shop as I believe it will be an interesting thread.
I am building a dedicated shop using steel, adobe, glass, and rough sawn reclaimed lumber. It will be 90% salvage from the local yards.
Jim Caudill, I like the idea of " L-6 square turret tool holder for cheap "
Is the one you have available for sale? since I have the taper attachement it may be a better solution to the compound? seems as though it would be inherantly more acurate to eliminate another dovetail. I may be misunderstanding what it does and does not do,(what am I giving up) is it easy to remove and switch back? please expound if you don't mind.
I have an extra L-6 turret tool post if you can't get one from Jim.
You will have noted by now that the lathe has a rotating bar on the front of the bed with four carriage stops that may be set anywhere along the bar. The four position tool post can be used with the four stops for repetitive work. Hardinge made tool holders for that turret to do boring, cutoff and knurling in addition to plain turning and facing. I have not played with it for years, but as I recall, the L-6 is held with the same eccentric bolt that holds the compound slide. You loosen the eccentric and pull it out of its hole to change tooling.
By the way, that eccentric bolt sometimes breaks and can be a pain to get the short end out of the hole. It is fairly easy to make a replacement bolt from a long socket head cap screw, and this topic has been covered here before.
Hardinge also made four position turrets that mount on top of the compound slide. I see you got one with the lathe.
You need the compound slide to make short tapers. Long tapers require the taper attachment.
Congrats on getting your machine more sorted and your shop project sounds great. If you're a bike builder in Tucson I assume you know Dave Bohm? He has a well equipped shop and I got to spend a fun few days with him last summer mitering tubes and brazing stuff.
Hey Jim , I think that the L-6 Turret is going to work out swimmingly for me.
Is yours for sale? I know Larry has one but I have not heard from him, so whoever gots I need! I need!
Please shoot me over a great price! thanks, James
520-975-7298 or email email@example.com
Hey Larry, Do you still have the L-6? you and Jim got me all excited about it so now I needs! please shoot over a price so I can decide thanks, James 520-975-7298 or firstname.lastname@example.org
MWR, I do bikes with big arse motors in them so no, I have not met mr Bohm. Next time you are in Tucson stop by and see the shop, should be done in a few months, just dropped off a semi full of reclaimed wood and steel!
Hardinge HLV TFB nameplates
Does anyone know where one can find a whole new set of tags, nameplates, decals etc. for an old 1969 Hardinge lathe ? I am going for the restored look, sorta like I would when I restore an old motorcycle. I have just started my search and don't mind scouring the globe, just thought that someone may have already "been there and done it"
Hi Jim you can get new badges made right here in tucson there is a photo engraver here in town that does the wwf and ultimate fighting belts and he will make new machine badges he has made lots of them for me and for ALs machinerey as well as some for people on this site. The name of the place is Tucson Trade Engraving.
I've gotten any data or name plate I need for HLV-H from Hardinge in the past.
Originally Posted by jimbocafe
Kevin, thats the guy who does your "POTTER" plate correct? If your nameplate is indicative of the quality of his work then I am on board (unless Hardinge has all this stuff in stock and is not tooo proud of it) I wonder if he can create the metal plate also or do I have to provide? hmmmm?
hey Milacron, any idea how much Hardinge is getting for there nameplates?
Last edited by jimbocafe; 12-24-2010 at 04:26 PM.
3 years ago....
Originally Posted by jimbocafe
Thread chart plate $7.50
Oil plunge plate $1.50
DC drive plate $10.00
The parts prices for small stuff at Hardinge are very reasonable. I got some parts for my old BP M-head and it was cheaper than Mcmaster (bearing lock nut) I also purchased the pesky excenter for the compund (i drilled the compound to knock it out, shame on me) and it was $30 or so.
Originally Posted by Milacron
Yes, would be pretty silly to pay an engraver to make a copy when you can get the real thing for less. Good to know about the engraver for other machines where you can't get data plates, but Hardinge is not a good example of where that should be necessary.
Originally Posted by tribologist
I sent an email with pictures and price on 26Dec10, but had no reply. Anyone else want it?
Originally Posted by jimbocafe
Originally Posted by Milacron
If you ever see such a deal on a TFB or HLV, PLEASE email me (email@example.com)
I am in the market.