Hadinge HLV-H Won't Stay Powered Up??
My new to me hardinge HLV-Hwon't stay on. I press the button to turn it on, and the little light comes, but then it immediately turns off. I think the contactor that "clicks" the machine on is not staying energized for some reason. Has anyone had this problem? The lathe is from the sixties (I think) and it was made in England. Also, it already has a transformer bolted to the side of it and the lathe worked fine for about 3 months, right up until the day I tried to turn it on for an actual job.... I'm working out of my garage so I don't have alot of money to throw at the problem.
Do you have utility-supplied three phase power in your garage?
Sometimes the coolant pump switch is in the "auto" position. If pump has not been run for a while, it can gum up.
This causes one of the overload heaters to kick out as the pump cannot rotate and eventually heats up.
Check for pump switch position to OFF
Push in on all the row of heaters in panel and perhaps you will hear one click for reset.
My HLVH was losing power sometimes during use. Cause was the contactors inside the side electrical cabinet were loose. The little screws on them loosened up from years of vibrations and the wires lost contact. A screwdriver fixed it up in 5 minutes.
I don't have utility supplied power. I use a RPC to run the lathe and the Bridgeport. I'll check the pump motors and the screws that connect the contactors. Thanks.
Is your spindle lock pin pushed in?
here's my 1966 hlv-h wiring diagram (UK) .
The lathe is from the sixties (I think) and it was made in England.
HLV-H 397 UK
My guess would be the voltage across the coil is insufficient (have you change the RPC's phase wiring at all?)
Another possibility, is the reverse switch - on the my UK wired machine, it will disconnect the main contactor if switched (as a safety measure, I guess) might be worth checking it's not halfway between forward and reverse.
The lathe has a control transformer. Be absolutely sure that the control circuitry is across the
utility lines, and NOT connected to the rotary converter's manufactured phase.
If the voltage sags a bit under application of load, it can cause the problem you observe.
The control voltage can drop low enough to drop out the contactors.
Check control voltage power as Jim details.
Check that M1 pulls in when pressing the start button.
Then try pressing the operating pin on M1 without pressing the start button, does the light come on? If yes, there is a problem with not having the proper (low) voltage to operate M1, or the coil has been run on low voltage, and the cores haven't seated together allowing the coil to overheat and distort so they can't close now.
I'll try these things tonight--thanks again.
Thanks for the wiring diagram Bill--it looks just like mine.
I meant that the wiring diagram looks like it matches the wiring on my lathe (I didn't have a diagram before). Thanks!