16" lodege and shipley stuck nut for cross slide power feed

workshoprat · Dec 25, 2017

Hey I been working on this 16" lodge and shipley I got a few years back. It was made in 1916. Its been setting in my shop a while project #3982. Anyhow my drive on my ATW went down so I figured it was a good time to get it up and running so I can continue to power tread some rods I am making for making square u bolts. Anyhow I got a 3 hp motor in place of the old 1 hp. after figuring out that the oil in the headstock was way to thick and robbing way to much power I did a flush with diesel fuel and will get some good oil for it in the morning. Cant today being cristmas and all. I am figuring on running ATF.

Ok so for the big problem is all my functions work except for the cross slide feed. I think the nut is stuck but I cannot get it to budge either way. The one for the carriage feed works great. I am not even sure which way to turn it and if im tightening it making it worse or loosening it. when you turn the cross slide feed handle the power know also turns and is locked to the feed handle. does anyone have a diagram of how these come apart or have any idea of how to get this unstuck and working?

here is a pic of the machine

johnoder · Dec 25, 2017

Those knobs with no "ears" are a little tough to break loose.

Right tight, left loose

Probably need a strap wrench or BIG water pump pliers with some padding - if you care about the knob

If the spindle is turning and the cross feed is NOT going, its stuck disengaged and needs to go right tight

ISO 46 in head stock - like Mobil DTE Medium - and not so much as it runs out of clutch

Here a 1916 page scan thanks to Mike C.

workshoprat · Dec 25, 2017

Yea I tried it with a chain wrench. problem is the only thing you have to hold onto that has an opposing force is the cross feed handle. I didnt want to break it and I dont know if I need to apply heat somewhere or not. Dont the two knob go the opposite directions for each function to engage? if so then i just need to go opposite what my apron feed knob is. maybee not im just going off memory of my ATW lathe.

I will have to look up that oil you list. If 46 is the weight of ISO 46 thats much better than the 90wt gear lube it had in it. I dont think they were designed for that thick of a lube and on a cold day its just to much lol.

John its been a while since I have seen your thread on your lathe. did you get yours up and running? got any pics of it now? thanks so much!

johnoder · Dec 25, 2017

Same direction on both - clock wise to make the feed start, counter clockwise to turn the feed off - and a slap with your palm to make sure

Drill a hole in the end of a two by four, slip it on the cross feed handle and put the other end on the floor - now you don't have to hold it. You are just unsticking something, not trying to break or bend metal

Yes, in a little later manual for the same type spindle bearings, L&S stated they wanted a lighter oil in that head stock - after all - you are also oiling close fitting spindle bearings

The 24" L&S runs fine, the 20" Heavy Greaves Klusman is still being fixed

workshoprat said:
Yea I tried it with a chain wrench. problem is the only thing you have to hold onto that has an opposing force is the cross feed handle. I didnt want to break it and I dont know if I need to apply heat somewhere or not. Dont the two knob go the opposite directions for each function to engage? if so then i just need to go opposite what my apron feed knob is. maybee not im just going off memory of my ATW lathe.

I will have to look up that oil you list. If 46 is the weight of ISO 46 thats much better than the 90wt gear lube it had in it. I dont think they were designed for that thick of a lube and on a cold day its just to much lol.

John its been a while since I have seen your thread on your lathe. did you get yours up and running? got any pics of it now? thanks so much!

workshoprat · Dec 25, 2017

John Thanks a bunch!!!! knowing which way to go takes a bunch of the pucker factor out of it. And having a quitting sense is good before you get the catastrophic snap bang crunch!!!

Looking it up it looks like a ISO 46 is equivalent to a SAE 20wt oil. I think ATF comes in at about 10wt which would be to thin. Its funny how putting 90 wt gear lube would seem like the best thing to do but could actually be horrible for this machine!!! I have got to wonder just how much oil the main bearings were getting with this weight oil? I am thinking maybe this is why the guy that had it sold it to me for such a good price. I dont think he used it much and was a huge wart in his shop. Probably couldn't get it running well and never could figure out the darn oil was way to thick!!

johnoder · Dec 25, 2017

Find the small screw plug in left front carriage saddle wing - that is how the back of apron gets oiled. Keep putting it in until it comes out on the floor from back of the apron. This may of been neglected for the last fifty years. You are filling up a trough as long as the apron that has a bunch of wicks leading off here and there. Bunch of oil holes front of apron - but only for front

Bunch of oil tubes/holes for head stock, range gear box for lead screw and there is a big slot on top of quadrant for left end gearing you need to be putting oil in

Now - go down to far right end and put oil in that lead screw bracket

workshoprat · Dec 25, 2017

johnoder said:
Find the small screw plug in left front carriage saddle wing - that is how the back of apron gets oiled. Keep putting it in until it comes out on the floor from back of the apron. This may of been neglected for the last fifty years. You are filling up a trough as long as the apron that has a bunch of wicks leading off here and there. Bunch of oil holes front of apron - but only for front

Bunch of oil tubes/holes for head stock, range gear box for lead screw and there is a big slot on top of quadrant for left end gearing you need to be putting oil in

Now - go down to far right end and put oil in that lead screw bracket

I think i got all those points. I did see the trough on the quadrant for left end gearing. About anything that had a hole i hit with oil lol. I will look for that plug on the carriage saddle wing. Didnt know about that one. Fortunatly my machine has the chip tray and catches all the slobbering from over induging my machine with my trusty goldenrod 1qt oil can lol! Seriously those are great oil cans and a definate must have. Its amazing how much oil they put out per stroke compared to chepo cans. And the 1qt capacity is great!!

johnoder · Dec 26, 2017

You can make out the trough on this 24" apron in these thumbnails - its serial is 19447. about 1917

workshoprat · Dec 26, 2017

Something that is real odd is the specs you posted say it should have a #4 mt tailstock spindle and mine is definatly a #3mt. I wonder if i actually have a 14". It dosent have the machine size in the casting anywhere like i have seen on all the other L&S lathes

johnoder · Dec 26, 2017

workshoprat said:
Something that is real odd is the specs you posted say it should have a #4 mt tailstock spindle and mine is definatly a #3mt. I wonder if i actually have a 14". It dosent have the machine size in the casting anywhere like i have seen on all the other L&S lathes

Here is 14" from 1916 - as can be seen, L&S was already standardized on more actual swing than "catalog" size - which gives the impression you have a 16"

Note it says MT3

Thanks to Mike C. for scan

workshoprat · Dec 26, 2017

Looks like i can narrow it down by tailstock spindle dia and main spindle through hole dia. Im out now getting oil and a 3 to 4 mt adaptor so I can get back to work making u bolts. I will size it all up when i get back to the shop

workshoprat · Dec 26, 2017

At this point based on the measurements im fairly certian its a 14" lathe. Which is no biggie. I bought it to be a back up and second operatuon lathe to my 18inch ATW.

Anyhow i got the oil in it and it only took about a gallon and a half and is now self correcting itself out the back of the input shaft lol. It really likes running on this oil and sounds great.

Just one more thing to do is to get compound feed unstuck but right now i gotta get back to work threading rods sok thats a project for another day!!!

Tony Quiring · Dec 26, 2017

If oil is too thick it will suck hp from the motor.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

workshoprat · Dec 31, 2017

Hey John I found the hole you were talking about. it says oil well. I am not sure if that means use lots of oil or its the oil "well" reservoir. It did not have a plug and was completely plugged with crud so that confirms your suspicion its been well neglected. i had to use some wire and carb cleaner to get it unplugged and flowing again. the oil goes in an directly on the floor. I think the trough is full of crud also and i may have to take my apron off to dig it all out. I will have to make a plug but for now my plastic cap plug will have to do. at least now im back to making parts WOO HOO

workshoprat · Jan 13, 2018

Well i have purchased a harrison m400 lathe and I am now going to put this L&S up for sale. I hate to but i just dont have tne room for another machine and this one has to go. Asking $2000. Also i got the cross slide power feed unstuck and working today so everything works!!

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