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32" G&E Shaper Owners, Looking for a part to Copy

Abom79

Stainless
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Location
Pensacola, FL
I am missing the plate and screw that bolts to the side of the machine that actuates the auto down-feed cam on the ram. Looks to be a simple flat plate with an angle milled on it, and a t-bolt type screw to hold it on.
If anyone with this machine has this part, I'd love to borrow it for a short time to copy it, or send pictures and dimensions to me.

One other part I'm missing is the crank handle that adjusts the stroke. I can build one no problem but would love to see a picture of the factory handle.

My email is [email protected]

Thanks!
 
Crank I made for the 36" Ohio - for the cross feed
 

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I contacted them again today and they said they have no information on the shaper, including drawings.

My 12" Sheldon shaper dealt me a bit of luck. 1/2" square rather than 9/16".

I had a female to female 1/2" square socket "coupler" in my Hell box. Hand or air ratchet of choice has done the rest.

I just ran a search for you on 4-point and 8-point sockets you could weld to a handle. No joy in 9/16".

Update. Found one:

APEX 5618 9/16'' Standard Impact Socket, For Single Square Nuts, 1/2'' Square Drive

Only downside is shallower depth - 7/16" - than the "though" coupler I use.

Still, open up the back side and weld it to a handle instead of using the 1/2" drive side? Or do that, and "stack" a second one back of it for TWO 7/16" long grip areas?

Mayhap a longer search could find a deeper one for square nuts. Seems it is the 9/16" that is uncommon in square.
 
My 12" Sheldon shaper dealt me a bit of luck. 1/2" square rather than 9/16".

I had a female to female 1/2" square socket "coupler" in my Hell box. Hand or air ratchet of choice has done the rest.

I just ran a search for you on 4-point and 8-point sockets you could weld to a handle. No joy in 9/16".

Update. Found one:

APEX 5618 9/16'' Standard Impact Socket, For Single Square Nuts, 1/2'' Square Drive

Only downside is shallower depth - 7/16" - than the "though" coupler I use.

Still, open up the back side and weld it to a handle instead of using the 1/2" drive side? Or do that, and "stack" a second one back of it for TWO 7/16" long grip areas?

Mayhap a longer search could find a deeper one for square nuts. Seems it is the 9/16" that is uncommon in square.

Today I ordered some Proto 8 point impact sockets in 9/16" size. Only downfall is that it's limited on depth. I'll use these to get me by and I am buying a broach from a forum member with one for sale. I'd like to build one as a project for the channel later.
 
Today I ordered some Proto 8 point impact sockets in 9/16" size. Only downfall is that it's limited on depth. I'll use these to get me by and I am buying a broach from a forum member with one for sale. I'd like to build one as a project for the channel later.

The shaft on my shaper has slightly chamfered, round'ish corners, so I'm not sure an 8-point will serve as well as a 4-point if yours is similar.

"Back in the day" a couple of my JR HS / SR HS classmates in Industrial Arts where really into blacksmithing, ornamental Iron and farrier work, could have hot forged us square sleeves, and rather quickly.
 
I have been cleaning up a 16" G&E and used an 8 point socket on the shafts since the original handle was missing. It isn't quite chewed up but I stopped using it, it was damaging the shaft because of the 8 points rather than 4 and the shallow depth.
 
I have been cleaning up a 16" G&E and used an 8 point socket on the shafts since the original handle was missing. It isn't quite chewed up but I stopped using it, it was damaging the shaft because of the 8 points rather than 4 and the shallow depth.

I gotta have something now if I want to adjust the stroke. The square shaft is tucked away inside so no getting it with a wrench. It'll work.
 
I gotta have something now if I want to adjust the stroke. The square shaft is tucked away inside so no getting it with a wrench. It'll work.

AFAIK, "Budd" truck wheel square fasteners do not exist in 9/16", but I've been wrong before, plenty of times. Might check a decent truck/heavy equipment supply for four-pointers - similar to that one I linked - that you could have same-day.
 
Probably I'm completely off-base. But, how hard would be to drill 9/16 a piece of mild steel, and square the hole with a reasonably-small end mill (1/8"-3/16") and "sharpen" the corners as needed with a file?
Especially with the "proper tooling" already on the way to make the ultimate crank, I have the feeling that we're wasting way too much time chatting and browsing Internet, while the problem could be easily solved in an hour or two in the shop.
Another possible alternative (inspired by Monarchist's schoolmates) would be to find a fairly thin-walled piece of pipe with internal diameter close to .720" and square the end of it with a vise and/or an hammer.

Paolo
 
Probably I'm completely off-base. But, how hard would be to drill 9/16 a piece of mild steel, and square the hole with a reasonably-small end mill (1/8"-3/16") and "sharpen" the corners as needed with a file?
Especially with the "proper tooling" already on the way to make the ultimate crank, I have the feeling that we're wasting way too much time chatting and browsing Internet, while the problem could be easily solved in an hour or two in the shop.
Another possible alternative (inspired by Monarchist's schoolmates) would be to find a fairly thin-walled piece of pipe with internal diameter close to .720" and square the end of it with a vise and/or an hammer.

Paolo

IF.. and I know not, for sure, but it IS "typical", that shaft on Adam's shaper is similar to mine, the corners do not even need to be square. The shaft has clearance chamfers/flats/rounding. The "socket" will be stronger if it does NOT have fully squared corners.

That makes the socket drillpress work or plunge end-mill work, with critical diameter used for the four corners to clear the flats at the shaft corners, but only just barely so.

The rest is then milling or chain-drilling + filing in between.

Flatted pipe just won't get it done for very long - if at all - on even a smaller and lighter shaper.
 
I contacted them again today and they said they have no information on the shaper, including drawings.

I don't know why I'm thinking the G&E Shaper product line went to another company during one of the sales... Does that ring a bell with anyone?

Do you have a manual? I know the DoD Tech Manual from the Mitts & Merrill era is floating around.
 








 
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