I am working on a quick change gearbox on a 15" Cincinnati Traytop and looking for someone that has been there before. This machine has a sheared pin in the "C D E" gear lever shaft, ref:78, where it attaches to the lever, shifter, ref:77, and I am having trouble removing the back shaft, ref:68. In looking at the diagrams I believe the back shaft moves out towards the left (toward the tail stock. I think the bearing race, ref:84, which goes inside the needle bearing ref:85, and extends out and through the gear, ref:82, should slip off the splined shaft but I can't get it to move. I see no pins holding it to the shaft and wonder if it is just stuck. There is a hole through the shaft, about 1/4 inch to the left of the race but I believe it is an oil hole because there is also a hole through the center of the shaft [on the right] that stops at this cross hole.
Anyone work on this quick change gear box before and if so, can give me some advice? Thanks in advance. Joe

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Joe,
I'm about to take on this same job soon myself on a 15" I bought this past summer. My feed direction won't stay engaged. I also want to change the seals to stop it from seeping oil.
Are you able to spin the inner race? Can you tell if the inner race has worn into the splines? There might be a small burr or shoulder stopping the race from moving off the shaft.
I'm interested to know if you've had any luck since you've posted this.
Good luck,John

John,
Thanks for your reply. Was about to give up. I haven’t gotten back to the project hoping someone would respond. Then I got delayed with a leaky roof problem, mostly from neglect, that I started just before the Hurricane/tropical Storm that popped up and headed toward me. Just my luck! Still raining and I have about 50 square feet of flat roof decking off the house, right now. Luckily the tarps are keeping the water out.
The inner roller bearing race looks to me to be splined to match the spline of the shaft. You will notice that on the other shaft, Ref:67, there is a collar or spacer, ref:60 that is pinned with ref:61, and is also splined. Don’t know why this collar is splined as I see no reason to pin it and spline it. Looks like it is just a spacer and maybe over designed. The designers made this thing pretty tough. I say tough because it took a while to get it off. Ended up drilling the pin to the shaft and splitting the collar in half to get it off. I will now have a project for my Bridgeport shaper when I make a new one.
Although I have already tried to press the race off, I was afraid to apply too much lateral pressure to the middle bearing casting wall. So after thinking about it for a couple of days, I have decided to take a piece of stock and drill a hole to clear the tailstock end of the shaft, then set up the press so the support will support and push on ref:71, then the casting wall, gears 76 and 81 and let gear 81 push the race off. Should work.
You can check your selecting lever problem by removing the gear case from the lathe and looking through the rear opening . Then while holding the lever ref:19, 22, turn the lever. If there is movement then you may have a taper pin, ref:20, broken similar to my C, D, & E, selector lever. Or if you are real lucky, taper pin, ref:2 You can also inspect the gear and other parts for wear or for chipped or broken teeth, etc.
There are two oil seals installed in the casting that I hope are available. Since there is a number stamped on my old one, ref:36, I will check with Motion Industries to see if there is a cross reference to this seal and will let you know. I don’t know if oil seal, ref:3 is the same or not. I think these are the only places that oil will leak out unless you have a cracked case, and I doubt you do. Well, in my case, my partner Larry added oil and came back later to find oil all over the pan. I asked him if he checked the oil plug and he said he did but after we removed the casting and turned it over; there was the oil plug hole and no plug. So check your plug to see if it is tight. It is next to the lever on the bottom. The way the casting is designed, the oil sight glass, shifter lever shaft and the right shifting lever are the only exits below the oil level line, except for the plug. You will notice from figure 12, that the gear case is open at the rear and doesn’t appear to have had a seal or gasket.
We have already rebuilt the left shifter handle, ref:7 on our machine, and I made a new lever ref:20. One of the tits on the gray cast iron handle was broken. So we cut it back and made cut ones, then made an extension piece to reach the lever. Getting it to line up with the lever detent was a little tricky but worked fine. Feed selections A&B work now. Fixing the sheared pin will fix C,D, and E. Joe

Joe
How old is your machine? I've downloaded both versions of the manual, pre 53 & post 55. I've been following this from 2 different views. I'm really glad to have someone to compare notes with.

I've got a few more things to tidy up before I pull thre QC box. I'm making leveling screw seats/pads, but stopped to drain the oil from the headstock. I didn't like what I was seeing in the sight glass after it ran for 10-15 min.
I pulled the lid after draining and investigated the smut in the corners with a magnet. normal filings from lazy gear shifting cowboys.I also found a shifter fork that had been brazed. So I flushed it with kerosene before fresh RO 46. Like a diesel engine, it sounded much more content with fresh oil.

I think my seal on the CDE shaft is where my seep is. I did add enough oil to bring the level up to visible in the sight glass,about 8-10 oz., and it hasn't dropped hardly at all.I did pull the Bijur plunger alot and haven't noticed any more drastic leaking.
I hope I only have a sheared pin,but I think I have worn dogs on the shifter sleeve.It's placarded right on the QC box to "Stop spindle completely before shifting!", another scar from cowboy operators. I'll let you know when I get the box off. I'm hoping that I don't have to make parts.
Keep me posted, This is starting to get interesting.
John

John,
My machine is a 1954. Hope to get back to the project soon. I made five of the leveling screws out of stainless and locking nuts out of brass. I think they were 16 TPI thread. The guy at the bolt fastener place just laughed when I tried to order some bolts that size. We installed them a couple of weeks ago. Worked great.
Roofers should be finished with their part tomorrow. Did I mention I hate roofing? Joe