doall v-36 bandsaw

climb-101 · May 5, 2017

I just got this machine today, its a doall V-36. It appears to be in good shape other than being left out in the rain for 2 weeks. The guy i got it from said came from a paper mill and was working when he got it. I will prob make sure it runs before i pull it apart to clean it up. Is there anything i should know about these as far as things to look for? Also is there a way to read the serial number so i can see when it was made, 1948 maybe? The only i thing that i can see initially is that the speedometer is broken.

also I look for other v-36 saws and i have yet to see one with the extra arm on the back that acts as an additional support for the blade guide. It moves up and down with it and it looks to be a factory part. It also has the feed mechanism in tack from what i can see. Hopefully the guy as the push block for it also. he said he had some other parts but he is not in town.

any idea as to the weight on one of these saws, i thought they were around 2000 lbs but the bobcat didnt want to move it so i borrowed a forklift.

moonlight machine · May 5, 2017

climb-101 said:
I just got this machine today, its a doall V-36. It appears to be in good shape other than being left out in the rain for 2 weeks. The guy i got it from said came from a paper mill and was working when he got it. I will prob make sure it runs before i pull it apart to clean it up. Is there anything i should know about these as far as things to look for? Also is there a way to read the serial number so i can see when it was made, 1948 maybe? The only i thing that i can see initially is that the speedometer is broken.

also I look for other v-36 saws and i have yet to see one with the extra arm on the back that acts as an additional support for the blade guide. It moves up and down with it and it looks to be a factory part. It also has the feed mechanism in tack from what i can see. Hopefully the guy as the push block for it also. he said he had some other parts but he is not in town.

any idea as to the weight on one of these saws, i thought they were around 2000 lbs but the bobcat didnt want to move it so i borrowed a forklift.

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I think you will find it weighs 3500+ lbs

johnoder · May 5, 2017

Don't seem possible. My 3613-2 made many years later weighs 1400

The extra arm was applied to the taller than normal jobs

climb-101 · May 5, 2017

interesting, i didn't realize they made ones that were taller than normal. what's a normal one measure? I'm assuming doall should be able to tell me some info in it if i give them the serial number.

johnoder · May 5, 2017

climb-101 said:
interesting, i didn't realize they made ones that were taller than normal. what's a normal one measure? I'm assuming doall should be able to tell me some info in it if i give them the serial number.

My 3613-2 is I suppose 13 max under upper guide

climb-101 · May 5, 2017

when i got get back on sunday i will have to check and see what i have under the guide.

bryan_machine · May 6, 2017

xxyy-n is wheel diameter x height of throat x speed control mechanism.

So my 2013-v3 is 20" wheels (meaning almost 20" blade to throat) and 13" max depth of cut, with a two speed gearbox and VFD.
(So John's -2 has some older speed control I presume.)

Be waring of cracks in the trunnions - a couple of repots on PM and I think a warning in the manual to NOT pick them up the table trunnions.

johnoder · May 6, 2017

My 1973 3613-2 came with the three speed and hyd disc brakes

bryan_machine said:
xxyy-n is wheel diameter x height of throat x speed control mechanism.

So my 2013-v3 is 20" wheels (meaning almost 20" blade to throat) and 13" max depth of cut, with a two speed gearbox and VFD.
(So John's -2 has some older speed control I presume.)

Be waring of cracks in the trunnions - a couple of repots on PM and I think a warning in the manual to NOT pick them up the table trunnions.

climb-101 · May 7, 2017

i check mine as far as the area under the guide. I have 24". mine is also a 2 speed setup but i don't think there is a brake in it. Does anybody have a pic of how there brake setup is. i wouldn't mind maybe setting up one on my saw

johnoder · May 7, 2017

climb-101 said:
i check mine as far as the area under the guide. I have 24". mine is also a 2 speed setup but i don't think there is a brake in it. Does anybody have a pic of how there brake setup is. i wouldn't mind maybe setting up one on my saw

3613-2 parts manual takes four pages to show brake system.

Caliper, brake disc, pump, reservoir, micro switch, lines, fittings and on and on.

Fifty-five parts on one page and fifty parts on the next page

Mine was total junk and the system was pitched

climb-101 · May 16, 2017

The guy i got the saw from finaly was able to get me the blades and a few little parts that he had laying around. looks like there is about 1000' of blades plus a few others lenox ones. all are new and roles up still. There was also 2 sets of file blades, a flat and a half round one. There are also some other random parts that i use help identifying.

He also had a few spare parts along with what looks like a second set of blade guides. There is an odd ball wrench but its stamped doall. There were 4 sets of double wheel rollers but im not sure that they go to the saw, they look like they should be on a hanging track but i could be wrong.

There is also a long threaded rod with a handle on one end and piece in the center that moves along the thread, Im not sure what it is but the handle looks like the rest of the ones on the saw, maybe a parts for the power feed? Also a couple of other little brackets that im not sure if they go with the saw.

There were also 6 blade guide holders and a bunch of bearings that go in them. The bearing have a black steel plate that snaps in place over the actual bearing, I assuming that the plate is a wear plate for the blade to push against instead of the actual bearing. Is there any reason why there is so many guide holders?

moonlight machine · May 16, 2017

climb-101 said:
The guy i got the saw from finaly was able to get me the blades and a few little parts that he had laying around. looks like there is about 1000' of blades plus a few others lenox ones. all are new and roles up still. There was also 2 sets of file blades, a flat and a half round one. There are also some other random parts that i use help identifying.
View attachment 198801
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He also had a few spare parts along with what looks like a second set of blade guides. There is an odd ball wrench but its stamped doall. There were 4 sets of double wheel rollers but im not sure that they go to the saw, they look like they should be on a hanging track but i could be wrong.

View attachment 198804
There is also a long threaded rod with a handle on one end and piece in the center that moves along the thread, Im not sure what it is but the handle looks like the rest of the ones on the saw, maybe a parts for the power feed? Also a couple of other little brackets that im not sure if they go with the saw.

View attachment 198805
There were also 6 blade guide holders and a bunch of bearings that go in them. The bearing have a black steel plate that snaps in place over the actual bearing, I assuming that the plate is a wear plate for the blade to push against instead of the actual bearing. Is there any reason why there is so many guide holders?

I have never had any problem with the cast iron blade guide holders
however that bearing cap deal is a joke, you will be replacing the bearings and caps all the time. The bearing sticks then the blade cuts through the cap and bearing. I got 5/16 bolt, cut the head down to about .080 thick and the threads off leaving about 1 1/4" of shank. then silver solder a piece of carbide on the head of the bolt for the blade to rub on. My saw has been set up like this for at least 15 years, It is totally trouble free.

climb-101 · May 16, 2017

sounds like a good way to do it once i wear out these bearings.

climb-101 · Oct 17, 2017

Im trying to switch the doall over from 440 3-phase to 220 3-phase. The motor is easy enough to swap just following the info on the plate.

The question i have is about the Transformer. Im assuming that they are using this to drop the voltage from 440 3-phase to 220 single phase for the blade welder. There is also another Transformer on the blade welder to drop it down to 110 volt. here is a pic of the Transformer, you can kind of see where it says 440v on the top of it.

Can i just bypass the Transformer since i plan on running the machine on 220v 3 phase instead of 440v 3 phase. I am assuming that i can just wire the motor in to the 220v 3 phase wires and just use 2 of the legs coming in to go to the blade welder giving it 220 single phase. Is this correct?

the blade welder also needs 110v, can i just use the 3rd leg of the 3 phase to power the 110v side of the blade welder. Here is a pic of the diagram on the welder

johnoder · Oct 17, 2017

Suggestion

Bypass the transformer - take two legs of the 220 three phase and feed the blade welder

Thumbnails schematics for the DBW15

V36 very likely has older blade welder

M.B. Naegle · Oct 17, 2017

If your saw is like our 16-2 Doall, the main transformer also supplies the motor control and work lamps.

I'd recommend keeping the saw on a disconnect switch and shutting it off when not in use. Our's caught fire while sitting idle a few years back, Just out of the blue "Hey why is green smoke coming out of the saw?!". I figured out that the transformers were constantly on. Granted they should have been fine but after 50+ years of CONSTANT service, the main transformer finally overheated and lit-up. I was able to replace the transformer with a new one with the help of an adapter bracket and we were back in service. I'm just glad it all happened during business hours and not at 3:00 AM. I think this event marks when I started getting really anal with our guys about shutting down their machines and work stations at the end of the day. :toetap:

Our speed indicator was dead when we first got our saw as well. For us it was just missing a V-belt.

hawkfan9 · Oct 18, 2017

I have a similar vintage V-36, and mine was also wired for 440V. When I changed the transformer wiring to accommodate my shop voltage (220V), I also had to change the heaters in the starter. You will need to do the same, as they will be for the incorrect current rating.

My speedometer is also broken. I would like to find the time to investigate getting it operational again. It would be a nice feature to have working.

Mine is also a 2 speed saw. Aren't all the V-36's?? I haven't personally seen one that wasn't, but that doesn't mean they were all built the same.

climb-101 · Oct 19, 2017

johnoder said:
Suggestion

Bypass the transformer - take two legs of the 220 three phase and feed the blade welder

Thumbnails schematics for the DBW15

V36 very likely has older blade welder

thanks for the diagrams,
i would assume its an older welder, the paperwork/drawing i found in one of the electrical boxes says "standard welder 220v DBW#1"

M.B. Naegle said:
If your saw is like our 16-2 Doall, the main transformer also supplies the motor control and work lamps.

I'd recommend keeping the saw on a disconnect switch and shutting it off when not in use. Our's caught fire while sitting idle a few years back, Just out of the blue "Hey why is green smoke coming out of the saw?!". I figured out that the transformers were constantly on. Granted they should have been fine but after 50+ years of CONSTANT service, the main transformer finally overheated and lit-up. I was able to replace the transformer with a new one with the help of an adapter bracket and we were back in service. I'm just glad it all happened during business hours and not at 3:00 AM. I think this event marks when I started getting really anal with our guys about shutting down their machines and work stations at the end of the day.

Our speed indicator was dead when we first got our saw as well. For us it was just missing a V-belt.

i was planing on getting rid of the disconnect because its in kind of rough shape, looks like it lost a battle with a forklift at some point as well as being kind corroded. I was planing on using an extension cord since the outlet isnt buy where the saw is going to be, same as i do for my lathe and mill. they are just unpluged when not in use. I am going to be looking for a speed indicator for mine, the guts i think are in rough shape, the small shaft that holds the indicator needle is broken. there was also a tun of shavings that came out of it when i pulled glass. From what i can tell, at some point one of the little screws that held the face on fell out and got into the inner working for a while. The face is still in great shape, judging by some of the prices doall has on the web-sight, i will be waiting till someone parts out a machine or i run across one on ebay.

hawkfan9 said:
I have a similar vintage V-36, and mine was also wired for 440V. When I changed the transformer wiring to accommodate my shop voltage (220V), I also had to change the heaters in the starter. You will need to do the same, as they will be for the incorrect current rating.

My speedometer is also broken. I would like to find the time to investigate getting it operational again. It would be a nice feature to have working.

Mine is also a 2 speed saw. Aren't all the V-36's?? I haven't personally seen one that wasn't, but that doesn't mean they were all built the same.

Where did you get the heaters in the starter at? how do i know what size i sould be getting, I know little to nothing about the electrical side of things. the speedometer is something i will need to find for mins since its in rough shape, There is a video on youtube about rebuilding the speedometer as long as parts arnt broken. you have to take the blade welder out of the machine though to get the speedometer out.

M.B. Naegle · Oct 19, 2017

Motor control heaters or coils are different between each make and model of starter (Allen Bradly, Furnas, Square D, etc.). You'll have to get that info, often printed on paper glued to the inside of the box or printed on the side of the switch assembly (also will often have a chart telling you which size of heater you need for what kind of voltage or load amperage), and then do some googling. Lots of places that carry electrical parts and components will have them, but I've found that many old ones are obsolete.

hawkfan9 · Oct 20, 2017

To add, start with who the manufacturer of your starter is, as stated. AB, Square D, etc....all have websites, and the heater charts can be found. Heater size is based on the FLA rating of the motor. You cross reference the amperage rating of your motor to the chart, and it will tell you what heaters you need. I personally always stick with Allen Bradley starters. They are good quality, available in huge quantities in the used market, and have a large selection of available heaters online at many sources, including ebay.

A little bit of reading up on the subject will do you good, and there are several good primers on the subject at vintagemachinery.org.

As already stated by M.B. Naegle ^^^, usually, but not always, there's a chart on the inside cover of your starter that will guide you to the correct starter, based on amps. When you decrease the voltage of the motor from 440V to 220V, the fla rating doubles. For instance, a 440V that draws 4.3 amps will draw 8.6 amps at 220V, as a rating.

doall v-36 bandsaw

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