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Thread: My new Brown & Sharpe #2 5hp Universal that I got from Adam

  1. #1
    nalambright's Avatar
    nalambright is offline Aluminum
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    Default My new Brown & Sharpe #2 5hp Universal that I got from Adam

    Well I finally got around to re-wiring it from 440 to 220 and took it for a test-drive. Everything is working great except for the feeds. Rapids work, but no feeds. I've looked around for a manual and can only find one for the plain model. Another issue is when I fill the knee with oil to the middle of the upper sight glass, it begins to pour out of the peckerhead on the feed motor. Ideas? I really dont know why there are two sight glasses.



    Anybody know what year it is?



    On a side note, I'd spend more time fixing the mill up if I could get this POS to run right! What a mess!!!


  2. #2
    Mike C. is offline Diamond
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    Not real sure about the sight glasses, but is it possible the upper one is a drip indicator for the knee oil pump and is not to be used as a fill level? Pacemaker lathe is set up that way.

    Wow, CBX. I very nearly bought a practically mint factory dresser, fairings, detachable bags, the whole works. 2400 original miles and the guy wanted like $2500. Just didn't have the money. Funniest thing I remember about that bike was the 85mph speedo! I had a 1980 Suzuki GS850L (cruiser model) that I called the Fairmont because of the same 85mph speedo.

  3. #3
    S_W_Bausch is online now Diamond
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    If you insist on keeping the CBX, are you suspicious of the carb tuning, the valve adjustment, the ignition, or...?

    I'd probably start with something easy,such as adjusting the valves, then the ignition, then the carb tuning.

    Or perhaps the ignition first.

    The carb tuning is a waste of time if the valves and ignition aren't correct.

    Good Luck,
    Steve
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  4. #4
    johnoder's Avatar
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    Anybody know what year it is?
    A guess would be about 1960, but the serial book has no 501 except the 2B under Dynamaster, and the first of that type number is 501-23-55 for '62. The Plain 1B was 502-2-133 for 1960.

    Here are these in case you have 3.500" over arms

    FS Brown and Sharpe Horizontal Mill Arbor Supports

  5. #5
    gkbikers is offline Aluminum
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    Nalambright,

    Your #2 looks like a deserving machine for your attentions. It should be really nice as you get it up to speed. Your bike is another worthwhile project, obviously. I always thought the CBXs were cool bikes. Closest thing to your bike that I've had was a `77 KZ1000. The newer bikes are far more sophisticated, but they don't have appeal of those standard type bikes.
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  6. #6
    Mike C. is offline Diamond
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    "...they don't have appeal of those standard type bikes. "

    Totally agree with that. Now days, you get a harley look alike or a crotch rocket with nothing in between (besides the occasional dual purpose like the BMW G). I really miss the old jap standard bikes like the KZs, Suzuki GS, Honda CBs, Yamaha XSs, etc... To me, they had the perfect seating position. You could take that basic layout and customize it to your liking, Cafe it out, cruise it, put fairings and bags on it, but the design was all your own. A friend has a recent Ducati GT 1000 retro re-issue that has that nice upright, fett under your butt seating position. Most comfortable bike I have ridden in years, with a big super torquey 1000cc Ducati V twin stuffed in it. Same feel as the old standards, but with an engine that feels more like it belongs on an F-16.

  7. #7
    Fasto's Avatar
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    On the knee - bottom glass is for oil level, should be 1/2 way up. Top sight glass is for flow. If you need, the drain is in the front to the left of the elevation screw. If I recall correctly it takes an Allen wrench about 3/8" to unscrew the drain. I think there's a filter next to the drain. This oil does the saddle/knee ways, and the knee/column ways, too.

    Don't neglect the auto oiler for the table traverse - there's a sight glass on left side towards the back of the saddle. The filler for this is on the bck of the saddle on the left. The pump is under the saddle on the left, in front of the traverse leadscrew. There's a distribution block under the right side of the saddle towards the front behind a cover plate. The pump is stroked by the power table traverse lever through a cam and a long rod.

    There's a solenoid inside a cover next to the knee motor that has to pull in to get the feeds to work, it clutches in the output of the feed box. This allows you to start up with the feeds engaged if you want. You might check this solenoid as I think the rapids bypass this solenoid with the lever clutching the rapids in mechanically.

  8. #8
    jhruska's Avatar
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    Pull the feed motor and check the seal. It's probably shot.
    John

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