Thread: New member with new-to-me Kearney & Trecker Model K, No. 2 Plain, Hor. Milling Mach.

Originally Posted by lowCountryCamo

Keith at TurnWrightMachineWorks on youtube has a few good vids on his K&T. Alot of other good vids too.

K&T 2HL Part 1 - YouTube
K&T 2HL Part 2 - YouTube

Thanks for the links. My machine has the side mount and swing arm for the vertical head as shown in the first video. Sadly, my machine did not have the head with it.

The second video is particularly helpful, although I still don't understand how his spindle is locked. The handle for engaging/braking the spindle (about two feet long on top of machine) does not lock my machine's spindle when moved either to the engagement position or to the braking position. However, in the video you can see that he checks the position of this handle prior to removing and reinstalling the draw bar. Hmmmm, maybe I'm "holdin' my mouth wrong" as the saying goes!

Originally Posted by gbent

Cat 50 pull stud thread is 1"-8, just the same as NMTB 50. I made my drawbar long enough to work in either. I have a bushing I flip over to change the drawbar length for Cat or NMTB.

One spindle drive key will have to be removed or modified for Cat.

Good to know.

I have invested in about seven additional tool holders or collet holders in addition to the one that came with the mill. I bought another little vertical mill (U.S. Machine Tool, Model V aka a Burke) with an R8 spindle, so I may buy an adaptor for it. Having the Cat
50 as an option may help me find the best tool/price.

I still don't understand how his spindle is locked

The spindle isn't locked. There is a brake and that is what the lever works along with the clutch, but said brake is not on spindle

If the spindle turns easily with it shifted into a low speed, you should check the spindle reverse to see if THAT is in gear. Its a tee handle to rear and below large speed dial crank on left face of column (at least that is the location on my 2CH)

Originally Posted by gkbikers

What size "T-slot" hold down nuts and bolts are best used with this machine?

I have three mills and even though they all use 1/2" x 13 studs, they each take slightly different T-nuts, all of which I make myself. I've found that off-the-shelf T-nuts are muchsmaller than they could be, which limits thread and slot engagement. So, I make my own, and size them so they nearly fill the entire T-slot profile of each machine.

Regards.

Mike

Thanks Johnoder.

I'm also asking the same questions on Yahoo's K&T group. Just got that suggestion, so I went to the shop and tried it. I pulled the T-handle for the forward/reverse out. No difference. I pushed it all the way back in. No difference. I tried turning the handle left/right. No difference. I tried REALLY pushing on the arm controlling engagement or braking of the spindle and I pushed both ways. No difference. I opened the door to the belts and turned the clutchpak counterclockwise by hand. It freewheels.

The thing is, the machine worked before we unplugged it. The arbor engaged and disengaged. If memory serves correctly, the brake did work when it had power.

I'm mystified (but that's not surprising!).

I guess that may be one of my first milling projects, judging by the feedback I'm getting here. Of course, I've got to get this mill up and running first!!

Originally Posted by Finegrain

I have three mills and even though they all use 1/2" x 13 studs, they each take slightly different T-nuts, all of which I make myself. I've found that off-the-shelf T-nuts are muchsmaller than they could be, which limits thread and slot engagement. So, I make my own, and size them so they nearly fill the entire T-slot profile of each machine.

Regards.

Mike

If the spindle turns easily with it shifted into a low speed,

Done any cranking of the crank on the big speed dial on column yet?

Okay, it is still not locking up, but this is also a learning process for me (trying to see the glass half-full).

Here is what I did:

Checked the forward/reverse; it was all the way in.
Put the spindle engagement arm in the braking position-moved it towards the arbor.
Began spinning the arbor and then turning the speed selector.

At first, the speed selector went round and round. Then, it locked up and would not turn any further in one direction. I went in the other direction and it locked up again about a 1/2 rotation later.

Then, I pulled the forward/reverse T-handle out. Now, it will not go back in but about 1/2 way.
I turned the arbor and the speed selector simultaneously. I began to hear a clunking sound upon every full rotation.

Then I moved the spindle lever from braking to engagement and spun the clutchpak.

It never engaged the gearing and now the foward/reverse T-handle will not go all the way in.

The only think I can think of is that during the trip from NC to GA, the gearing took such a punishment from the trailer bouncing up and down (the Carolina's have TERRIBLE interstates) that somethink in the gearbox is askew.

Any other ideas?

Thanks guys!

Enlist a helper.

Have him turn clutch pulley the right way

You have the top lever in the CLUTCH ENGAGED position - as far as it can go AWAY from column

Now play with speed crank and reverse tee handle. After enough fooling around and getting things actually in gear, I'll bet the helper will be making the arbor turn.

When this is happening, put it in lowest speed and leave clutch engaged and see if you can't unscrew the draw bar without the spindle turning

I do believe the K does have something HYDRAULIC (other than lube oil pump). All this means is nothing much will work they way you hope to have it work until the MOTOR is turning the clutch pulley.

Also a question - if oil was drained from column before move, you have to refill - if only to give that probable bit of hydraulics something to work with.

Originally Posted by johnoder

Enlist a helper.

Have him turn clutch pulley the right way

You have the top lever in the CLUTCH ENGAGED position - as far as it can go AWAY from column

Now play with speed crank and reverse tee handle. After enough fooling around and getting things actually in gear, I'll bet the helper will be making the arbor turn.

When this is happening, put it in lowest speed and leave clutch engaged and see if you can't unscrew the draw bar without the spindle turning

I do believe the K does have something HYDRAULIC (other than lube oil pump). All this means is nothing much will work they way you hope to have it work until the MOTOR is turning the clutch pulley.

Also a question - if oil was drained from column before move, you have to refill - if only to give that probable bit of hydraulics something to work with.

That sounds like a good plan.

The oil was not drained, so at least I don't have to go through that exercise (at the present time anyway).

Thanks!

Hello: Hope this helps.. Ramsay1

Originally Posted by ramsay1

Hello: Hope this helps.. Ramsay1

Thanks Ramsay1. That instruction will come in handy; however, until I hook my machine up to power, I don't thank anything will work. From what I've learned recently, there are some hydraulic functions associated with the clutch and gear mechanisms, so the power must be available to select a gear, etc.

If I am mistaken, I probably have a big problem on my hands.

gkbikers

The youtube videos really shows how versatile the KT is with the additional heads. What a nice machine! For some reason I thought they were much larger (taller) monsters, just a lot of power in a small footprint.

gkbikers, let me know if you need a hand, ---check your email

I thought they were much larger (taller) monsters

They made them from 3000 lbs to 17000 lbs.

Well, I haven't visited this thread in a little while; life's other adventures diverted my attention for a time!

Revisiting some previously discussed issues . . . . .

Regarding the belts, sure enough, there is printing on the outside of the belts that give the industry standard size, i.e., B68,
as well as the manufacturer and probably the lot number. I assume these were a "matched set" as the other numbers are the same.
So now, in doing some shopping, I see that there are several belt options. For example, wrapped vs. plain. Matched or unspecified.
What I "think" I know is that modern technology from a reputable manufacturer negates the need for "matched sets". So that
brings up a point: does anyone have a particular manufacturer they recommend and why? I've seen Gates, Browning, Bestorq, Dayton,
Bando among others. Any comments?

Also, as I mentioned previously, I finally purchased a 6600# pallet jack to move my machine from outside the garage to its final position inside the shop, a distance of about 40 feet. It took four men, two of whom are the large, economy size, to budge the beast. It was not really what I would call an EASY move, considering we were on concrete, had a brand new HD pallet jack, a second pallet jack for extra support (my neighbor's WESCO), and four fairly stout guys pulling and pushing. These machines may not have a huge footprint, but believe me, they ARE heavy beasts!

Even though I've read much about the Rotary Phase Converters and have two neighbors familiar with all the components, and a brother in
the HVAC business, I think I've gotten to the point that I'm just going to order a RPC from one of the ebay suppliers. I'm leaning toward the
WNY guy even though I've read comments that are less than highly complimentary. I guess if I'm disappointed, I can only blame myself!

So, the machine still has not run, still needs to be serviced (i.e., new belts, check/change the fluids) and have power hooked up. All that being
said, I will get there eventually.

Thanks for all the input, advice, and information guys!

More to come.

Gary

Hi all:

On the belts, once upon a time "matched" belts were tied together with string..I remember years ago "matched" belts used on some Waukesha engines I serviced.. Now manufacturers say that belts are made to such close tolerances that there is no need for matching..

Be sure to buy a good brand and make certain they are not set up too tight as that will throw undue strain on bearings in the motor and machine.. Belts should be set up just tight enough so that they donot slip under load.. I have seen sleeve bearings ruined by belts set up too tight.. Ramsay1

"Saddle Stuck" . . . sounds like a bad western movie.

Another challenge has cropped up.

The Saddle is very difficult to move. I've ordered and received the parts manual and I've taken out the two screws (#121 on page 32 & 33 of the K&T #2K/3K manual), left lower side of saddle, front and rear, that adjust the Gib. I tried to "tap out" the Gib from the back side of the saddle, but it has not budged so far.

I can move the saddle front to rear and rear to front with the hand wheel BUT it takes both hands and it is very difficult.

Any ideas?

Gary

Any ideas?

Is saddle lock loose? Probably left side, like on my 2CH

Originally Posted by johnoder

Is saddle lock loose? Probably left side, like on my 2CH

I believe so. I pulled the lever up until it was tight and held itself parallel to the floor. Then, I pushed it back down again. I also tried moving the saddle with the lever in both the down and the up positions. However, I cannot tell any difference in the difficulty, whether the lever is in the down or up position.

Up and down lever on mine is knee lock, not saddle lock. Is there a lever that works in horizontal plain under left end of saddle? (That is my saddle lock)