Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 24
  1. #1
    Hot Bob is offline Cast Iron
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Sanger, Texas
    Posts
    315

    Default 30 gallons of coolant on the floor - sealant recommendations?

    I was pretty excited about my progress this weekend. I finally got the coolant system hooked up on my Matsuura RA1 and I wrote my first program for making soft jaws for the vises. I picked up a barrel to pre-mix the E-206. I was going to buy a manual pump to pump from the barrel to the coolant tank but, after looking at the flow rates of the pumps and how much labor was involved, I decided I would just use a length of hose and siphon the coolant into the tank. The Siphon worked well and I had 30 gallons in the coolant tank in no time. Then I noticed the leak. Having no pump with which to remove the coolant, all I could do was watch it leak.

    So this morning I have almost no coolant left in the tank. Obviously this is going to be a pain in the ass job. I don't really want to weld on the coolant tank. The tank is painted steel and it is big and heavy (and dirty). I imagine that it is leaking at the joints somewhere. I'm leaning toward a RTV silicone to seal all the joints and corners. Anyone been through this? What would you guys recommend?

    Bob

  2. #2
    chip_maker's Avatar
    chip_maker is offline Stainless
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    ct.
    Posts
    1,059

    Default

    Been there done that. I would not mess around with rtv. find the leak weld it fill with only water and repeat till there's no more leaks.

  3. #3
    Question Boy's Avatar
    Question Boy is offline Hot Rolled
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Napa, California
    Posts
    947

    Default

    I once used solder to repair a couple pin holes on a small sheet metal coolant tank. Worked fine.

    QB

  4. #4
    behindpropellers is offline Stainless
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    NE OHIO
    Posts
    1,285

    Default

    3m 5200 or SikaFlex

    Tim

  5. #5
    MJR7 is offline Plastic
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    47

    Default

    3m 5200 is affected by water-soluble coolant. Been there, done that.

  6. #6
    converterking is offline Aluminum
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Milwaukee,WI
    Posts
    164

    Default

    Did anyone try using spray on bedliner for trucks? I was wondering if this would work.

  7. #7
    Mickey_D's Avatar
    Mickey_D is offline Stainless
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    1,458

    Default

    Permatex's "The Right Stuff" holds up very well in coolant. NAPA and other auto stores carry it.

  8. #8
    Dan from Oakland is offline Stainless
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Oakland, CA
    Posts
    1,162

    Default

    Been there- its a pain. Of course welding it is the best way, but that may not work for all of us. JB Weld will work very well and does hold up to coolant. The surfaces to have the oil gone- use Brake Clean or acetone, rough the surface up and remove any paint. If the tank joints are vertical use the 5 minute stuff. I've held a finger over a pin hole in a full tank and prepped the bottom side and reapired it with 5 minute JB Weld- 5 years later it is still ok.

    Sikaflex is good stuff and it would be my choice behind welding and JB Weld, but I've never used it. Some RTV's don't like coolant- and you don't want to test which ones in your situation. Sikaflex is not RTV- its polyurethane.

    Good luck.

    Dan

  9. #9
    The Energy Rebel is offline Hot Rolled
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Western NC, USA
    Posts
    616

    Default

    There's a product called "Goop" at your local hardware store that has worked well for me in the past.
    It comes in 4 varieties, the Marine Goop, is the best.
    Will hold up in salt water applications and dries quickly.
    It comes in toothpaste sized tubes, so if it is a very large leak, this may not be your best option.
    Whatever you choose, don't discount the importance of thoroughly cleaning the area first.
    Yes, it's a PITA.

  10. #10
    Ox's Avatar
    Ox
    Ox is offline Diamond
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    West Unity, Ohio
    Posts
    17,635

    Default

    Coolant tanks SHOULD be made from SS the FIRST time!


    --------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

  11. #11
    cmailco's Avatar
    cmailco is offline Hot Rolled
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    949

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    Coolant tanks SHOULD be made from SS the FIRST time!


    --------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    Amen Ox... don't know how many times I've thought and said that very same thing.

  12. #12
    SIM
    SIM is offline Titanium
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Staten Island NewYork USA
    Posts
    2,251

    Default

    Weld, Marine-Tex...possible JB Weld.


    Should be made from SS...yeah but it wouldn't be long before they stated going with crap Grades of SS and then we would be paying more for the same crap...


    Couldn't you have sucked the coolant from the tank with the machines coolant pump?

    The again who am I to talk...if I don't overfill at least one tank, at least once a week something would be wrong.

  13. #13
    Mud's Avatar
    Mud
    Mud is offline Diamond
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    10,563

    Default

    If it's a small hole, JBWeld, PC-7, Marine Tex, Goop, or my personal favorite Devcon 5 minute epoxy. All except JBWeld and PC-7 are somewhat flexible to resist cracking. If it's a crack at a bend or at a weld, then it should be welded. A thin sheetmetal patch buttered with one of the above condiments would even take care of the larger hole or crack, at least for a while.

  14. #14
    NewbieMachinist is online now Aluminum
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose,CA
    Posts
    238

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan from Oakland View Post
    Been there- its a pain. Of course welding it is the best way, but that may not work for all of us. JB Weld will work very well and does hold up to coolant. The surfaces to have the oil gone- use Brake Clean or acetone, rough the surface up and remove any paint. If the tank joints are vertical use the 5 minute stuff. I've held a finger over a pin hole in a full tank and prepped the bottom side and reapired it with 5 minute JB Weld- 5 years later it is still ok.

    Sikaflex is good stuff and it would be my choice behind welding and JB Weld, but I've never used it. Some RTV's don't like coolant- and you don't want to test which ones in your situation. Sikaflex is not RTV- its polyurethane.

    Good luck.

    Dan

    Rust pinhole in a 150 psi compressor tank same results.

    Good luck

  15. #15
    ARB's Avatar
    ARB
    ARB is offline Titanium
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Granville,NY,USA
    Posts
    3,648

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    Coolant tanks SHOULD be made from SS the FIRST time!


    --------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    As well as vehicle brake and fuel lines.

  16. #16
    JHCHOPPERS's Avatar
    JHCHOPPERS is offline Plastic
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Maryville, IL 62062
    Posts
    26

    Default

    I contacted Blaser, this is what they send me.

    JH

    BlaserSeal.pdf

  17. #17
    Laurentian's Avatar
    Laurentian is offline Stainless
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,041

    Default

    We used RedCoat in one of our Bosto tanks.
    Lasted 18 months with Castrol Superedge
    We are redoing it again.
    Next time I'll find the leak and weld it.
    Another one was welded with a complete
    bottom plate leaving the old one there.

    x2 for stainless.

    And as for cars I blew a brake hose this summer on
    one of my diesel Jetta's trying to do a tire screetching
    stop to scare some kids that were up to no good in our
    industrial park. The effect was minimal, I just came to a slow stop
    and let a nice little puddle...

  18. #18
    mjk
    mjk is offline Stainless
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Wilmington DE USA
    Posts
    1,371

    Default

    Regardless how you fix the leak, keep a working wet/dry shop vac and at least 1 leak free 55 gal drum around, evan if its for trash.
    Nothing worse than finding a leak and "watching it" cover the floor.
    Had a coolant line break on a lathe I was setting up in my shop.
    I was so proud to see the moderatly high spray coming from the coolant fed drill.
    Walk around the back of the machine 10 minutes later and the guyser from the line had covered a 10 ft-sq area.
    I was lucky and the vac worked and the drum for temporary storage was leak free.
    Mike

  19. #19
    Bob Looney is offline Aluminum
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    69

    Default

    The best CNC sealant known to man

    Dow Corning 732
    They used it on my Akira Seiki from the factory, no leaks in 7 years. Impervious to E206 or the new anti foam version 9XX series coolant, the only coolants I have used.

    McMaster Carr has it.

    Parts need to be clean, like MEK type clean.

  20. #20
    Ox's Avatar
    Ox
    Ox is offline Diamond
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    West Unity, Ohio
    Posts
    17,635

    Default

    The rest of us don't have many leaks in 7 yrs either.




    ---------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •