316 stainless- your favorite drills for that stuff

WILLEO6709 · Aug 23, 2017

I recently did a little job in 316 stainless, nothing crazy- 1.25 round x 3 inches long with 2 little bitty cross holes- not quite 1/8 inch. I was surprised how many steel jobbers the job ate up- even tried a cabide " high tuff" and that did not go as well as I thought it would. What works to drill this stuff?

Larry Dickman · Aug 23, 2017

Hate to keep sounding like a broken record, but OSC EX-SUS gold. Only drill you'll ever need.

ARB · Aug 23, 2017

I have not drilled much of it yet... But when I have and used a Widia Top Cut 4 I was simply amazed at the performance. It won't help your small hole issue because these are insert drills but..... Wow... I can't believe how fast and quiet they run.

I'm interested to see what others are using. My workload has swung 180 degrees from almost 100% aluminum to almost 100% 304 and 316. Talk about a learning curve... I have not worked any real amount of SS in 25 years.

Hazzert · Aug 23, 2017

YG-1 Gold P split point 8% cobalt jobbers. I think they go down to Ø1/16". 35-50 SFM, 1xD pecks just to play it safe has always worked for me

WILLEO6709 · Aug 23, 2017

I was running precision twist drill jobbers at about 20 sfm, 1/4 d pecks, feed about .0004/ rev. going halfway from each side after center drilling ( surprising not an issue ) I think the main issue was meeting in the middle. I wanted to come in from both sides to push the bar to the middle and deburr the outside nice with a live ball endmill.... but maybe it was a flawed plan. The carbide I was running 80 sfm and about 1 ipm feed... got about 20 holes to 8 on the jobbers.

SND · Aug 23, 2017

For my use, low qty parts, I still mostly use PTD cobalt screw machine drills. For me they've been cost effective.

enginuity · Aug 23, 2017

I really like the Titex / Walter stuff. In high speed steel jobber length A1249 XPL, screw machine length A1149 XPL. XPL coating is really good. For small cross drills I don't usually bother with carbide. Productivity does take a bit of a hit.

316 stainless can be all over the map. Sometimes you can try everything and it doesn't seem to get any better. I've run stuff that cuts like butter, then load in the next batch and find burrs everywhere and tool life plummets. A little counter intuitive perhaps, but if you look at the heat information I've found the stuff where the yield strength is closer to the tensile strength gives longer tool life. Sorta makes sense - the higher yield stuff is less gummy.

Who is the supplier? If you can, try to get the Ugima stuff from Schmolz-Bickenbach. It is expensive but worth every penny. The best part about the Ugima stuff is it is consistent. You don't have to worry about the next batch plotting to destroy all your tooling. With the Ugima I run 50 sfm for XPL HSS with the feed about 80% of what Titex recommends.

Try to avoid off shore stainless. Very popular with the purchasing department until you tell them to look at the tooling bill for the job run. Of course this is after the fact, and all is forgot the next time the material is ordered :rolleyes5:

.

vettedude · Aug 23, 2017

Corodrill 880 or 860 or mits drills + 1000 psi through drill coolant. No issues ever here I am at 500+ holes on my 860s and the same for a 1.125 880, same insert sides and no resharpen i am expecting thousands of holes from these drills/inserts. They just work. The few Mitsubishi drills we have used seem to work equally as well. Also all of our drill times are in seconds, and we go with recommended feeds/speeds.

TeachMePlease · Aug 24, 2017

MA Ford carbide drills,Altima coated. They don't cost much more than a good name coated HSS or cobalt drill, but man, do they perform.

RobMcQuillen · Aug 24, 2017

Emuge EF-VA HP DRILLS

Cole2534 · Aug 24, 2017

TeachMePlease said:
MA Ford carbide drills,Altima coated. They don't cost much more than a good name coated HSS or cobalt drill, but man, do they perform.

Where you buying them from?

TeachMePlease · Aug 26, 2017

Cole2534 said:
Where you buying them from?

I use a 3rd party tooling vendor called AFI, Alternatives for Industry.

johnny_mnemonic · Aug 27, 2017

WILLEO6709 said:
I recently did a little job in 316 stainless, nothing crazy- 1.25 round x 3 inches long with 2 little bitty cross holes- not quite 1/8 inch. I was surprised how many steel jobbers the job ate up- even tried a cabide " high tuff" and that did not go as well as I thought it would. What works to drill this stuff?

hi wille, once a year i cut many parts with a similar size hole, but deeper ( 8d )

is not 316stainless exactly, but is not a walk in the park

can you cut those cross holes after ?

for my setup, after testing some tools, i used korloy + amec + kyocera

all the best !

Dupa3872 · Aug 27, 2017

I machine a lot of 316 and use Chicago Latrobe 135 degree split point Cobalt stub drills on almost everything here with good results.

Make Chips Boys !

Ron

WILLEO6709 · Aug 27, 2017

johnny_mnemonic said:
can you cut those cross holes after ?!

Why would I want to handle it more than once? Loading 4' bars and getting finished parts is awesome

johnny_mnemonic · Aug 27, 2017

hi wille

i dont know your part, but mine uses 4 clamps :
- long hole is machined in 2nd clamp
- cross holes are machined in 3rd clamp ( thus after the long hole )

material was pretty nasty, effort values were raising suddenly from 90% to 130-150%

i tested more than 8 different drills, trying&succeeding to reduce costs with tools, without increasing machining time

of course, it is possible that my tool palette won't suit your needs

WILLEO6709 · Aug 27, 2017

johnny_mnemonic said:
hi wille

i dont know your part, but mine uses 4 clamps :
- long hole is machined in 2nd clamp
- cross holes are machined in 3rd clamp ( thus after the long hole )

material was pretty nasty, effort values were raising suddenly from 90% to 130-150%

i tested more than 8 different drills, trying&succeeding to reduce costs with tools, without increasing machining time

of course, it is possible that my tool palette won't suit your needs

clamps? cripes I am doing this in a lathe.... load bar, face, turn, cross drill, deburr, subspindle pull, cutoff, and backface. part is only a few inches long and I only had a couple a dozen to do.

johnny_mnemonic · Aug 27, 2017

i was also talking about a lathe ( chuck clamp / unclamp ) ; sorry for the confusion

i did not fully explained my tool choices :
- kyocera : nice cost with 2 inserts drills
- korloy : nice cost with 1 carbide insert drills
- amec : nice cost with 1 hss insert drills

Mrb8542 · Aug 29, 2017

Overall toughness and less issues. Just buy some cobalt and rock and roll. 304 and 316 daily around here. Lot less tooling cost. And regrind fairly simple.

316 stainless- your favorite drills for that stuff

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