Anyone use Rego-Fix powRgrip or Fahrion collet system ?

I am new to selling Rego-Fix for distribution and I have a new customer interested in upgrading to a high performance finishing tool holders. They are currently using BT30 shrinkfit and they are getting a big time tuning fork effect.

That said has anyone used either the Rego-Fix powRgrip or Fahrion ER collet system? I appreciate your input. Thanks

Roughing or finishing?

I would treat chatter between roughing & finishing differently.

Chatter at roughing - Shorten up the tool mainly. Pick a cutter with variable flute spacing. Adjust the depth/stepover. If you're fighting chatter in roughing, I might not even worry too much about runout in this situation. The runout isn't good for tool-life, but the inconsistent chip-thickness between teeth (we're talking microns here) may actually help prevent harmonics from starting up.

Chatter at finishing - Pick an endmill designed for finishing, with no edge-prep/honing on the flutes. A hydraulic toolholder may actually be preferred here, as it might help with dampening.

That said, I'm sure the Fahrion system is high-quality, just as any high-precision, on-size collet system would be. Just be aware it might not be *the fix* if you have other issues going on.

Short gage length > all other holders in BT30
a 1.1 gage er16 holder will produce a better finish than a 3" gage shrink fit.

Lyndex makes some very nice and short SK holders that I've been using with good success.

You guys are both right on the money. Yeah my customer is using an 80mm gage length shrinkfit holder and having fits. They are getting better tool life from the Lyndex Sk system.

I learned something interesting that some may know already from my guy at Pioneer. The reason they don't make shorter gage length shrink fit holders is..... any guesses? It should be obvious.... the heat goes to the taper and not the tool so even with a 50mm gage length shrink fit holder you may never get your tool out again!

jashley you are saying no edge prep at all? With a sharp edge won't it break down very quickly and lose the coating? I preach this all the time to customers that they need a nice edge prep/dulled edge for toughness and it has served me well. You are saying the opposite though?

Shop Supply Guru said:

jashley you are saying no edge prep at all? With a sharp edge won't it break down very quickly and lose the coating? I preach this all the time to customers that they need a nice edge prep/dulled edge for toughness and it has served me well. You are saying the opposite though?

Click to expand...

As you may know, Seco owns Niagara Cutter... I was at a training class a couple weeks ago, and we were discussing why in *some* applications, our new badass endmills weren't working the way we thought they should... Well, the edge prep on this *roughing/semi-roughing* endmill causes issues if you try to take very light finishing cuts. They said to use xxx-series endmill for finishing, and we asked, "Why?" The finishing endmills have a sharp edge without hone/edge-prep, and therefore actually *cut* material on very light-width finishing cuts.

Different tools for different jobs it turns out. After 10 years of cutting steel, I thought I "knew it all" so to speak, but certainly not...

However, the idea makes sense. In turning, you don't use a big heavy edge-prep insert for finishing. The idea being, that you need more feed-per-rev than the insert has hone/land-length, so that the material will actually flow into the chip-groove area, and not just rub & pile up on the hone/land. The same applies to endmills - you don't want to have more hone than your average chip-thickness, or else the endmill won't actually cut the material away - it will just rub & push it away. Which means more radial pressure, which then turns into chatter...

So for roughing - yes, you want the edge-prep. For finishing, you want the sharp edge...

Interested to hear some feedback as well. Setting up an ISO20 machine and thinking bout grabbing a couple of these for the final finishing tool (60* 2flute 0.005" tip engraver). Finish is good, but tip "rounds" leaving larger inside radius than wanted and shallower pockets (some down to O. 015" width)

Wrong words courtesy of Tapatalk and Voice To Text. You bar well come.

Currently using 40 of these holders, with the auto clamping unit. The only complain so far with these holders are you can't set the tools at shorter hang out on common length tools. So that you can utilize the full regrind life of the tool. Besides this they perform flawlessly. Nice for fast pace production were this kind of holder is needed. Sure beats waiting on a tool holder to cool down. I am waiting to see how long the collets hold on. We are running some of that good un-machinium stuff, so numerous tool changes required with those easy 0.0 corner radius and +/-.0005 TP

Several ways to go with this. You can download the Harmonizer app or purchase the software for your pc or get the full blown impact testing package MetalMax.
Easiest, cheapest and guickest https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mli.harmonizer
http://www.blueswarf.com/uploads/3/8/5/6/38566/datasheet_harmonizer.pdf
http://www.blueswarf.com/uploads/3/8/5/6/38566/030-datasheet_metalmax.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/BlueSwarf-Me...UTF8&qid=1523630881&sr=8-1&keywords=blueswarf
https://www.amazon.com/BlueSwarf-70...UTF8&qid=1523630913&sr=8-2&keywords=blueswarf

Several options. Cheapest MetalMax Harmonizer APP at googlestore
Harmonizer, MetalMax at Blueswarf