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  1. #21
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    Shit!

    You are right!

    I need a LH external threading tool and ran in M4.

    Now I need to re-order my threading tools!



    Better to figger this out now as after I made the toolholder eh and my guage didn't fit ?

    But I could picture it so well the other way...


    -----------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    Shit!

    You are right!

    I need a LH external threading tool and ran in M4.

    Now I need to re-order my threading tools!



    Better to figger this out now as after I made the toolholder eh and my guage didn't fit ?

    But I could picture it so well the other way...


    -----------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox


    Man I know the feeling. Threading is a bitch sometimes!

    Saturday I was turning Amphenol caps on the Mazak lathe. I bumped my tool offset 3 times on the internal thread and it was still NO-GO on my fit.
    It felt like taper. Starts to thread, then tightens up. I mic'd the whole mess, no taper.

    It took me way to long to figure out that what I wanted was 18 TPI. I programmed 20 TPI!

    Glad you caught it before spending all that time!

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  5. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tores View Post
    you change moods faster than she does
    No I don't, when it comes to you, my mood is very stable.

    R

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    -------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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    So I see some dis-coloring, and maybe a smidgen of weld.

    Did you get a TIG welder ?

  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post



    -------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    Ought to be able to get the 45 and sneak a thread on it with those. Looks almost store bought. Fine job Ox!

    Brent

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    I took it to the welding shop. I have a wire jobbie up in the pallet racking. Never fired it.

    I doo run a buzz box on odd occassion, but not if I have a choice.


    ------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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    Quote Originally Posted by tores View Post
    hello OX i can not visualize exactly what you wish to say, but if by 35* chamfer you will get a thicker thread end spiral, than is all ok; in many cases is better to change the classical 45* to another value
    Well Deadly Kitten,
    Ox is referring to, that with a 55deg insert with a 5deg approach angle, a 45deg deg chamfer can't be cut due to interference of the trailing edge (the best would be 30deg). With a 35deg insert, 45deg is possible. You must be the only one that doesn't know that.

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  12. #29
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    Boring tool works great, but I have chatter with the threader.

    I want to add some carbide to the end I think.
    Anyone here with any experience with dooing so?

    I don't know whether it is best to have it in a tight hole, or maybe a cpl thou play?
    Like maybe drill V (.377) for a 3/8 blank?

    Any idea how much is enough or too much?


    -------------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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    I'd think a tight hole? I've always wondered how drilling and tapping for NPT pipe plug flush with end then fill with lead shot would do? Kinda like how a dead blow works? How'd you locate the flat? Wonder if rotating it a smidgen would help?

    Brent

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  15. #31
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    My flat is square with the flat that I used to locate the boughten holder.


    I have added through the tool coolant. Comes out about perfect.
    Way better than I expected.


    --------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    Boring tool works great, but I have chatter with the threader.

    I want to add some carbide to the end I think.
    Anyone here with any experience with dooing so?

    I don't know whether it is best to have it in a tight hole, or maybe a cpl thou play?
    Like maybe drill V (.377) for a 3/8 blank?

    Any idea how much is enough or too much?


    -------------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    Drill it deep enough to go through that shoulder to the reduced tip of the bar.
    Slide in a 3/8 shank long enough to pass the shoulder (mass + stiffness of carbide)
    Braze / silver solder it in place. One tiny drop of silver solder will wick all the way in making zero clearance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yardbird View Post
    I'd think a tight hole? I've always wondered how drilling and tapping for NPT pipe plug flush with end then fill with lead shot would do? Kinda like how a dead blow works? How'd you locate the flat? Wonder if rotating it a smidgen would help?

    Brent
    Interesting. The shot seems like a good idea.
    You could fill the space between the shot with some way-oil or grease to add to the damping effect.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cwtoyota View Post
    Drill it deep enough to go through that shoulder to the reduced tip of the bar.
    Slide in a 3/8 shank long enough to pass the shoulder (mass + stiffness of carbide)
    Braze / silver solder it in place. One tiny drop of silver solder will wick all the way in making zero clearance.

    Please reword the part about where to drill.


    -------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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    Quote Originally Posted by cwtoyota View Post
    Drill it deep enough to go through that shoulder to the reduced tip of the bar.
    Slide in a 3/8 shank long enough to pass the shoulder (mass + stiffness of carbide)
    Braze / silver solder it in place. One tiny drop of silver solder will wick all the way in making zero clearance.
    "I have added through the tool coolant. Comes out about perfect.

    Way better than I expected"

    apparently the coolant fixed the chatter? IDK?

    Brent

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    Quote Originally Posted by yardbird View Post
    "I have added through the tool coolant. Comes out about perfect.

    Way better than I expected"

    apparently the coolant fixed the chatter? IDK?

    Brent

    Not related at all.

    I added the hole before I ever tried it.

    I didn't get anything done in the shop today. Went to s owmachine auction earlier, and then The Mrs. 2anted to go out this evening...

    So I will dink with it tomorrow.


    ---------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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    Quote Originally Posted by cwtoyota View Post
    Drill it deep enough to go through that shoulder to the reduced tip of the bar.
    Maybe he means Drill from the back of the Bar toward the cutting tool???? Or maybe a cross hole???

    Were it me, I think I would try drilling along the length of the bar, and filling it with something other than Carbide first to see if that does anything at all, worst case you can drill it out again and try something else.

    I would think (but you know better than me) Drilling a +.005" hole would be the only realistic option, if your going to try to jam something really long and hard ground in there.

    'nother thought, maybe try filing the Fillet where it steps down with some weld, so it's not such a sharp corner. Like a crank shaft step.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    Please reword the part about where to drill.


    -------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

    A picture will explain what I was thinking a little more clearly that I worded it above.
    The shoulder I was talking about would be the blue arrow. That would be where the flex starts when it chatters.

    The red would be the drill hole if you had X-ray vision. I don't know where your coolant bore is though, so it may not work.

    I was thinking that if you brazed a piece of carbide shank in there it would add stiffness at the step created by that shoulder.
    The mass of the carbide could help too.

    The silver solder would let you drill fairly loose fit, drop it in and fill the gap.


    oxs_threader.jpg

  24. #39
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    My coolant comes out where your arrow is.

    I could prolly solder it in. That seems to be a good idea - so that it could be removed for whatever reason later....



    -------------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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  26. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    My coolant comes out where your arrow is.

    I could prolly solder it in. That seems to be a good idea - so that it could be removed for whatever reason later....



    -------------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    I didn't even think about removing it, but that's a good point.


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