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  1. #41
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    Well - solder didn't werk!

    I heated up the bar with a torch and then touched the solder to it and it melted quickly, but just balled up like a slug of mercury on top.

    ???

    Never used solder in this way before. I guess that's why they put copper in it for this type app?
    I don't have any braze....


    Anyway, I had it tonked down in to what I thought was bottom and left an 1/8" sticking out, but while I was heating it up, the slug dropped 1/8" on it's own.

    So - I guess I have a press fit in the bottom that should hold _ for now anyway...

    I'll give'r a shot.


    Not the best pic I guess, but you can also see the coolant hole to some degree too.
    I drilled a 5/16 (?) hole through to the end of the large D, and then feathered it out with a ball endmill, and it shoots right to the tip better than expected.





    ----------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    Well - solder didn't werk!

    I heated up the bar with a torch and then touched the solder to it and it melted quickly, but just balled up like a slug of mercury on top.

    ???

    Never used solder in this way before. I guess that's why they put copper in it for this type app?
    I don't have any braze....


    Anyway, I had it tonked down in to what I thought was bottom and left an 1/2" sticking out, but while I was heating it up, the slug dropped 1/8" on it's own.

    So - I guess I have a press fit in the bottom that should hold _ for now anyway...

    I'll give'r a shot.


    Not the best pic I guess, but you can also see the coolant hole to some degree too.
    I drilled a 5/16 (?) hole through to the end of the large D, and then feathered it out with a ball endmill, and it shoots right to the tip better than expected.





    ----------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    Regular lead or antimony plumbing solder wouldn't be the best option. It's not good on steel or structural.

    I was thinking silver solder or brazing alloy.
    Stay-Silv-15 is what I use on HVAC stuff, or high-pressure copper, but it doesn't actually need to be a silver alloy.
    The advantage to some of the silver solder products is that they are self-fluxing.

    Standard brazing rod would be a good choice. Hardware stores like Lowes and Home Depot carry small packs of fluxed and non-fluxed braze filler.
    The welding supply stores would have it too, but you'd have to wait for Monday and you will probably end up with a 3 pound tube.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwtoyota View Post
    Regular lead or antimony plumbing solder wouldn't be the best option. It's not good on steel or structural.

    I was thinking silver solder or brazing alloy.
    Stay-Silv-15 is what I use on HVAC stuff, or high-pressure copper, but it doesn't actually need to be a silver alloy.
    The advantage to some of the silver solder products is that they are self-fluxing.

    Standard brazing rod would be a good choice. Hardware stores like Lowes and Home Depot carry small packs of fluxed and non-fluxed braze filler.
    The welding supply stores would have it too, but you'd have to wait for Monday and you will probably end up with a 3 pound tube.
    Shop Lincoln Electric 1/8-in Flux Coated Brazing Rod at Lowes.com

    Bernzomatic WB5 Bronze Flux Coated Brazing and Welding Rods-33449 - The Home Depot

  4. #44
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    Well that didn't fix anything.

    I think I'm gunna just hafta start over with some bigger stock and not cut it down near this much.

    I couldn't make the boring bar any bigger for it's app, but the threader doesn't reach behind much of a step at all, so I can make that one much heavier.


    Back to the drawing board!


    ------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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  6. #45
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    If that is made out of cold roll? If ya have a hunk 4140PH laying around you might try making the next one outta that?

    I like the way you did the radius relief on your bar but since you mentioned there isn't much to reach around I wonder if you could get away with just milling a flat to possibly retain more of the mass? IDK I can't see the part just thinking out loud I guess. What size thread you needing to do?

    Brent

  7. #46
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    Yeah, this one was just some 1.750 1018.
    But I have some 2.625 4140ph that should work perfect.

    Thread is 2"


    Of course I still have to turn the shank down to 1.500.


    --------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    Last edited by Ox; 12-03-2017 at 08:38 PM. Reason: Shank

  8. #47
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    Try Sandvik SL (serration-lock) heads for smaller back boring...
    57-SVUCR-2-11X-E

    I use it on the end of one of these...
    C5-57-3C 2 19 but they also have standard shanks.

    I use these on some applications. Once you have the bar you can switch out the heads. Sometimes I need a VBMT, sometimes an ID groove tool, mostly used with TCMT inserts for finishing. It's expensive to start out but very versatile once you have the bar.

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  10. #48
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    That is a nice lookin' head!

    But it doesn't appear to have quite enough reach for my app.
    I need at least a 1/2" offset to work for my app.
    This one has 10mm.

    Also - can't go any (not much) bigger than the 20mm shank on that tool.


    But thanks anyhow!


    -----------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

  11. #49
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    Well, I think this one will work.

    I did end up with some chatter by the time that I snuck up on the size, but I didn't have any chatter that I could hear or see after the first threading cycle, and in the 3 subsequent cycles (+.005 each time) I only got chatter on my extra spring passes. I started undersize on porpoise.

    It was set for 2 extra spring passes, but I have now taken that out. So, between no springs, and no sneaking, I should be good to go.

    Also - I have enough coolant coming through that threading bar to fill Lake Mead!

    One thing that held me up a cpl of days on this was the fact that I needed more large boring bar tooling blocks. I have had this machine for 20 years, and NOW I need 2 more big holders, and of course I can't find any on The Bay. So I went to shophardinge.com and seen that they did in fact still offer the blocks and were in stock. (at least one anyhow?) I thought that I seen somewhere a price of $450 each, but in the end I couldn't find it anymore.


    Well, I have lots of new part samples to be making this month, and for $450 each, yeah, I'll prolly just order a cpl up and be done with it. But when I called in I found that there was another option.... The voice wanted $1325 each for these pretty blocks of steel....


    "Yeah ... no .... Let's just cancel this order and I will find another option....."


    So I had to make a cpl of those too.






    ----------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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