Okuma Tram issues

We have an Okuma MA650 VB year 2000. When tramming the spindle i'm seeing .003" on a 16inch circle in X and Y. It seems to be leaning forward in Y and towards the positve side in X. Had a ballbar test done and checked squareness, everything checked out ok. Is this something that can be fixed by adjusting the gibs? We were told the ways might have to be remachined?

She probably just needs to be re-leveled. That's where I would start.

If the head feels like it is tipping forward (what it sounds like) you should try tightening the gibs on the Z axis. A lot of the Okumas use a special wrench to for the lock nut on the adjuster screw (it is a rounded nut with two holes in the top for a tool to grab). A SnapOn S9605B fits my older Cadet 4020s (that was a fun one to figure out).

Machine has been leveled, and releveled once more. Will tightening the gibs fix the error across the X as well?

If you have never adjusted the gibbs there is nothing wrong with checking up on it. Do that before anything. It could potentially solve your issue if worn. If it's really jacked up it might need to fixed/replaced. No harm in looking. But.....

I'm not sure what your squareness test consisted of, so I'll just throw this out there.
I've fought this tram issue before on several machinines. Just because the machine is "level" does not mean all legs have the best/ correct force on them. Tighten one leg up (sounds like front right) slightly while the indicator is on the low spot and watch it move. If you have a precision cylinder square, stand it up on the table and run an indicator up and down it on each side and see how far off you are in z to each axis.
Adjust as needed.

I was taught all you need to do is level the machine. It took some effort to figure out they need to also be trammed as part of leveling. Always. Adjust those legs so the low spot has some extra push on it. Kind of like getting a lathe to cut straight.

How do your ways look? Are they really dull? I'm hoping for you that this extra leveling attempt works in your favor. Best of luck.

Matt is right, "level" is just a convenient starting point. How I got my machines happy, is level, and then started taking test facing passes.

I kept playing with the feet until I had nice overlap, and no steps.

Now if you have head nod, you'll need to get that squared away (is that pun?) first. Your gibs and straps will take care of that, hopefully.
Getting the machine sitting nice on all of its feet may also play a part.

I'm trying to remember how I did it......

Bored a hole, a nice round one with a boring head. Then indicated the hole in with a really short holder and then again with a
really long tool holder. If the position is the same, your head should be pretty good and square. If not, start adjusting.

You may have to go back and forth a few times between test cuts for flat and square and checking your head nod. Really not that
hard to get it all happy.

I don't know if thats how you are "supposed" to do it, but that's what I did, and it seemed to work out well, Ive been very happy with the results, little to no investment and
didn't take very long. I'm sure somebody can come in with a laser and all that and get it right, but I'm cheap.

Loose gibbs can cause all kinds of problems from chatter to lines and poor finish on a part. Snug them up to what the manual (or your dealer) shows and see what happens. After you do that you will probably have to tweak the feet on the machine to pull it straight. If you have never done this, spend some time on the board reading about how to level a machine or call a REAL tech in who can do it for you.

Gibs should have about zero affect on head tram. Any Okuma veritcal I leveled in past had six feet on the floor. Adjusting the center feet will change the tram in Y. X tram will be twist in the base, essentially you would end up tweaking the back two and one center foot feet to change this, as was said above, level, wait a few days come back and re level.... Machines move after they are adjusted. Always a good idea to periodically (once a quarter) check your machine feet to make sure all are contacting the floor evenly. Then once a year or two check level throughout travel and check the tram of the head to the table.


Husker

Level it first and then check the squareness of the surface of the table to the Z travel in X & Y. Correct that using your levelling feet. Then check the Parallelism of the spindle to the table with a mandrel and correct on the Z gibs.
The problem with relying on tram to check feet is it's a mish-mash of checks all in one. You can correct the tram on the feet but if the gibs are loose, you'll just have to go back and adjust them again when you've got the gibs snug.
Best to do it in the right order.
For C framed machines, start at the table surface and work down through the slides- X then Y then Z and finally the spindle. That way any adjustments you make won't affect the part of the geometry you just adjusted.