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correcting a taper

CNCbeginer

Plastic
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Looking for some help on a problem Im having

I am trying to program a taper to compensate for a taper over 1.165 inch
Where my problem lies is that I am putting a groove in the middle of it

any ideas?

This is my finish pass that I am trying to straighten out. I'm about .00025 and I would like to be straight as this will be have about a .0005 clearance bushing.


G00Z1.300
G00X0.24125
G01X0.28125Z1.260 (X0.28125)
G01X0.28156Z0.740
G01X0.27756Z0.720
G01Z0.635
G01X0.28156Z0.615
G01X0.28196Z0.090 (X0.28196)
G01X0.271Z0.080
G01Z-0.020
G00X0.350
G00Z2.5
 
Looking for some help on a problem Im having

I am trying to program a taper to compensate for a taper over 1.165 inch
Where my problem lies is that I am putting a groove in the middle of it

any ideas?

This is my finish pass that I am trying to straighten out. I'm about .00025 and I would like to be straight as this will be have about a .0005 clearance bushing.


G00Z1.300
G00X0.24125
G01X0.28125Z1.260 (X0.28125)
G01X0.28156Z0.740
G01X0.27756Z0.720
G01Z0.635
G01X0.28156Z0.615
G01X0.28196Z0.090 (X0.28196)
G01X0.271Z0.080
G01Z-0.020
G00X0.350
G00Z2.5

Hello CNCbeginer,
If you're going to turn it straight by fudging the program, just do more of what you're already doing. However, based on the X0.28125 and X0.28196 coordinates, you have a taper of a little over 0.007" per foot, likely being caused by the Spindle (head-stock) being misaligned with the Z axis. At that rate, I would be fixing the cause of the problem rather than chase a fudge fix.

Regards,

Bill
 
...... However, based on the X0.28125 and X0.28196 coordinates, you have a taper of a little over 0.007" per foot, likely being caused by the Spindle (head-stock) being misaligned with the Z axis. At that rate, I would be fixing the cause of the problem rather than chase a fudge fix.

+1 on this^

If you have that much taper due to headstock alignment you also are not cutting a flat face.
 
Looking for some help on a problem Im having

I am trying to program a taper to compensate for a taper over 1.165 inch
Where my problem lies is that I am putting a groove in the middle of it

any ideas?

This is my finish pass that I am trying to straighten out. I'm about .00025 and I would like to be straight as this will be have about a .0005 clearance bushing.


G00Z1.300
G00X0.24125
G01X0.28125Z1.260 (X0.28125)
G01X0.28156Z0.740
G01X0.27756Z0.720
G01Z0.635
G01X0.28156Z0.615
G01X0.28196Z0.090 (X0.28196)
G01X0.271Z0.080
G01Z-0.020
G00X0.350
G00Z2.5


Well, if your spindle was straight, you would still need to map this part anyhow, it's just that you would start smaller and get bigger near the chuck - doo to tool pressure.

You have a long skinny part. This is a challange for many folks, let alone a newbie.

You have learned yourself how to "map" a long skinny part, as these don't just go continually - for whatever reason? IDK.

You are right on track, so just keep on keepin' on.

Next time, buy a swiss lathe for this part. ;)


Personally, I am impressed that you are able to get it to run at all. You will have the best luck with "sharp" tools with no dwell. Like a ground insert for alum maybe (steel inserts have a "honed" edge), or maybe a HSS "tool bit" that is ground sharp, but has no flat surface. And then feed slowly.




-----------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
even changing insets will change it on this skinny a part. ideally you'd run this in a swiss type... but we use what we have.
I have had to tweak taper slightly in properly aligned machined- long stuff even in larger diameters one gets a little chuck flex, a little part bend, and a little action from Murphy's law of machining- you won't cut the tip small until the finish pass- and then it is ALWAYS out of tolerance low on one end only.
 
Well, if your spindle was straight, you would still need to map this part anyhow, it's just that you would start smaller and get bigger near the chuck - doo to tool pressure.

You have a long skinny part. This is a challange for many folks, let alone a newbie.

You have learned yourself how to "map" a long skinny part, as these don't just go continually - for whatever reason? IDK.

You are right on track, so just keep on keepin' on.

Next time, buy a swiss lathe for this part. ;)


Personally, I am impressed that you are able to get it to run at all. You will have the best luck with "sharp" tools with no dwell. Like a ground insert for alum maybe (steel inserts have a "honed" edge), or maybe a HSS "tool bit" that is ground sharp, but has no flat surface. And then feed slowly.




-----------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Hello Ox,
You know, the small diameter didn't even register with me, notwithstanding that I even type their values in my previous Post. I looked at the length and thought, "you only get taper on a length that short with the Spindle out of alignment".

The amount of Taper due to tool pressure, as you would know, varies, getting less as the tool gets closer to the chuck. Not that it's applicable for the OP's part with a groove part way along, but I've had good success cutting a very large Concave arc, with the circumference passing through the Start and End point of the Taper. You have to stuff around getting the best arc radius to use, so its not that useful for short runs.

Regards,

Bill
 
Thank you for all the great ideas
I did end up getting it to turn straight. You may call it fudging but remember I am new at cnc.
But I learn fast. Thanks again. 😎
 
Fudging is exactly what you need to doo in cases like this.

BTW - you can usually up the RPM/feed as you go down the map too.


-----------------------------

As long as you're not packing it!
Ox
 








 
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