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Daewoo Puma 6 Fanuc spindle drive issues

T

thewildbills

Plastic
Joined
Sep 18, 2017
Location
Monroe
Hi, New to the forum and not sure if I am posting in the correct area. Just let me know and I will try to fix it.

Here is my problem,
I have a Daewoo Puma 6 with a Fanuc 3tf control. Spindle drive is a A06B-6044-H009. Problem is that when I try to put the machine in gear it will alarm the spindle drive out as soon as I hit the button. It will not allow me to MDI a M41 either. It does nothing at all when I do that. It pulls a alarm 12 on the spindle drive. Not sure what is going on or how to fix it. I have a guy I go to for all my board issues and he looked over the main board and says eveything looks good. Just looking for some help and if there is anything else that is needed just let me know.

Thanks
 
I send all my suspect Fanuc boards to Tennessee Industrial Electronics. Not sure if they have similators to test Fanuc 3T stuff but give them a call. They are pretty sharp (615)471-5070. They will try to help over the phone for no charge. Most items they will test for $200 and will apply that charge toward repairs. As for MDI an M41, M-codes are machine specific so we need to know that that means. What I use to extend my tail stock on my Fanuc OT
opens and shuts the collet on my Fanuc 21T.
 
Alarm 12 on the drive is excessive current on the DC bus. Most common cause of that alarm is a shorted transistor module in the drive. Secondary causes are a short in the motor or motor power cables, and the main spindle drive board.

If you have a shorted transistor module, it sometimes causes damage to the main board that will blow a new module.

Do you have the Fanuc spindle drive maintenance manual? If so, there is a good section on testing the transistor modules and main board related to alarm 12.
 
From my experience, this is the most common failure on a spindle drive. High voltage on the DC bus indicating that the drive is not able to correctly use the braking resistor to maintain correct DC bus voltage.

This is an old machine, but on a newer machines, there's not a lot of testing that you can do without tearing down the drive to isolate the IGBT modules. Unlike a cheap VFD which just has passive diodes, the high end drives use thyristers that require gate voltage to function.

99% of the time, the IGBTs modules will fail as a dead short (closed circuit) or they fail open and no current can cross them. Once in a great while the control circuit fails and sends too much current to the base of the transistors and smokes them that way. Even more rarely, the IGBT fails and then causes an additional failure in the control circuit.

99% of the time, you find the bad IGBT, replace it, check the capacitors, put it back together, and it will run until the next failure.
 
I only have a book, no .pdf or anything. :(

Possibly some Google time might turn one up. The book is titled Spindle Servo Unit Maintenance. Your drive is an analog model. Newer ones are digital. The testing procedure for the transistor modules is the same for either drive type. One thing that is not explicit in the manual is that you have to disconnect all the wires and buss bar connections from a transistor module before trying to test it. Leaving it connected will give erroneous results. If you do this yourself be very diligent about labeling wires and buss connections. Also take some pictures before tearing it down.
 
Ok So I took the drive out and I am testing the transistors as I type. Do you think that all of them could have gone bad? Ive tested 3 so far and according to the manual they are bad. Do you think they could all have went bad?
 
I'm working on a video about how to test these things.

The best way is to use a DC power supply or a 9 volt battery and a small light bulb. Transistor modules usually have at least one diode that can be tested with a multimeter in resistance or diode test mode. They can also be tested with the batter and light bulb. It should come one when hooked up one direction, and not when hooked up the other way.

Most also have an NPN transistor. You have to hook the negative of the battery to the emitter and the positive side goes through the light bulb and to the collector. Then just touch one finger to the positive terminal and another finger to the gate terminal. The current through your body is enough to turn the transistor on. To turn it off touch the gate and the negative terminal.

The Thyristers found in the rectifier section require more current to the gate to function. Usually you have to connect the light buld circuit as described above, and use a jumper wire from the positive to the gate to turn it on.
 
OK. Those are typical. The modules have 2 separate transistor sections.

Do you have a multi-meter with a diode test function? With the meter in diode test function, put the red probe on E1 and black on C1. It should show something like .4-.6 volts. Reverse the leads. It should show 0L. Repeat for E2 and C2. That's the test of the flyback diode. If you get the same reading both ways, something is wrong.

If you don't have a diode test function, you can do the same test in resistance mode. It should be low resistance one way, like less than 500 ohms. It will be really high the other way, like over 1 mega ohm.

To test the transistors, you need to apply a voltage to the base or B1/B2 terminal. The datasheet says 6 volts maximum to the base. Don't exceed that voltage. If you do, you need to use a current limiting resistor. The sheet says it can take 4.5 amps at the base, which is a ton.

So to test the transistor, you'd need a 9V battery, a small light bulb, and a 1 ohm resistor. Hook negative to the C1, positive to the bulb, other side of the bulb to E1. Then positive to the resistor to B1. You might be able to skip the resistor. It's only 1 ohm. I'm not sure.
 
Ok I will do these tests today and see what I can come up with. Or I may just take them to my guy that does all my board work so I don't mess them up if they are good lol
 
Might be a good idea. They will fail either as a dead short or they won't close no matter what. Most times they short.
 
Ok so I took them over to my guy and he says they are good. There is 6 more modules on my drive. They are MSG100L41. Any info on testing these? They have 4 spade connectors and 3 screw terminals.
 
If the transistors are good then the next thing to check is the motor and motor power cables. Leg to leg they will be very low resistance. Each leg to ground should be open circuit or infinite resistance. Best tool for this is a megohmmeter.

I once had a drive that one of the current sense resistors failed on. I don't recall if that resulted in alarm 12. Might be worth a check. They are white ceramic block resistors connected to the output of transistor modules 1 and 2. If you have a diagram, they will be labeled R5 and R6.
 
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