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Deep hole flat bottom drill

djm77

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 27, 2011
Location
UK
Hi all,

We have just done a job where we needed a flat bottom hole at the bottom of deep bore relative to the bore diameter. The hole is 32mm dia and 159mm long. We are producing these parts on a cnc slant bed lathe using the turret.

We are using an Allied Maxcut spade drill to produce the holes and speeds and feeds are as per manufacturers guidelines. We first go in with a standard drill point to maybe 1mm past finished depth, and then go back in with the flat bottomed insert to remove the drill angle at the bottom of the hole. The problem we get is, the standard drill point gives us a lovely finish that we are very happy with, however, when we go back in with the flat bottom insert, we get vibration/judder marks where the insert engages with the material when it starts removing the original drill angle. This doesn't happen on every part, but is inconsistent enough to annoy the hell out of me.

As a rule these marks are not overly detrimental to the operation of the part, but I am always looking for ways of improving our processes and whilst the finish isn't critical, it's bad enough that I want to do something about it.

So my question is, does anybody have any tooling recommendations for drilling flat bottomed holes in small diameters when in relation to depth of bore, such as the 32mm dia X 159mm deep bore discussed here. The bottom face doesn't have to be perfectly flat, so the likes of a U-drill insert finish on the bottom would be acceptable. We do various parts with similar bore sizes but to various depths, so I am looking for a versatile tool such as the Allied Maxcut spade drills we have, where we only need to order up different insert sizes. We recently did a job with a 32mm bore, but it was 500mm deep with a flat bottom, so whilst I may be able to get a U-drill to get to 159mm deep (just) that tool wouldn't do the 500mm deep bore.

Any thoughts on other tooling would be a great help.

Cheers


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since you are only needing to remove the drill point at the bottom you could try a half round drill (D drill) with 180* point. Its self supporting nature would lend well to not chattering.
 
First thing that comes to my mind is a Kennametal KSEM drill. They offer a flat insert that does have a center point, which would eliminate having to drill it beforehand. They make KSEM drills up to either 7 or 10xD. In your case, 5xD may just be sufficient for 32mm dia. x 159mm deep.
 
since you are only needing to remove the drill point at the bottom you could try a half round drill (D drill) with 180* point. Its self supporting nature would lend well to not chattering.

This sounds interesting, I've never heard of a half round drill. Would you care to elaborate, do you have a link or a picture or something for me to reference against?


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how about a 2 flute end mill with the sides relieved

Trying to find a tool that would be versatile to use on a variety of jobs such as the Allies Maxcut spade drills are. Once you have the holder, it's just a case of buying different size inserts to suit our hole size.


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This looks very similar to a U-drill to me so would be limited on length and fixed on diameter (up to a point, I know we could bore with it) is this available in the lengths mentioned in my original post (500mm deep on one part) or as U-drills only up to about 5 X D. Also is it easily changed in diameter once you have to body as the Allied Maxcut spade drills are, they generally cover a 10mm range meaning we only need to buy inserts for most of what we do?


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Komet KUB Centron drills are wonderful. They have a Powerline version that I have a brochure for that uses square inserts & drops the carbide buttons. They work best when setup very accurately. Different size holes just take a head swap.

They only have 8xD shanks in the catalog, but I'll bet they'd make you a 16xD shank to get your 500mm hole.

KOMET of America - KUB Centron Powerline

At one shop I ran a 1.5" Komet drill @ 1500rpm & .005ipr ~9" deep all day long.

Nik
 
2 flute standard 32mm drill can be hand snubbed off square, then by hand clearance up the flutes to the thinned flute edge all by hand. Also one can surface grind the 2 flute drill flat then thin and clearance by hand.
 
2 flute standard 32mm drill can be hand snubbed off square, then by hand clearance up the flutes to the thinned flute edge all by hand. Also one can surface grind the 2 flute drill flat then thin and clearance by hand.
We do this often. Not production. But for what we do they often last for years of use. I even have them for counter bore on all bolt head sizes rather than going to the counter bore set and continually changing the nodes from what the last guy did.
 
I will say no other drill is going to compare to the range of sizes you get with a spade drill. They are the best in terms of that. If you want a better tool you will have to give up that flexibility. The Iscar tool and others like it Iscar makes come in a variety of XD's however you will have a pretty limited diameter range per tool body.
 
Not so sure I wouldn't just use the tooling you have but try a different approach with the flat bottom spade.
M00 after the drill op and make for damn sure hole is free of chips.
Drop spindle RPM to really slow, like 10 or 20.
Feed at damn near a rapid speed (maybe even just rapid) to almost bottom of hole, this doesn't give the flat bottom time to mess with your existing hole on the way in.
Stop just shy of where you need to start the flat bottom and set RPM and feed to proper spec.
M05 (stop spindle code?) once at bottom and rapid the tool out the hole.

Butt pucker will be at 120% but there shouldn't be an issue.
 
Hi djm77:
Are you completely opposed to modifying an existing insert as opposed to trying to find a stock solution?
I ask because I've often found that notching the cutting edges, and staggering the notches radially on one flute compared to the other drops the cutting pressure enough to enable me to cut chatter-free, especially if the drill is well supported in the bore.
Also making the drill tip a few thou undersize compared to the rest of the bore and supporting it with some carbide buttons keeps the second drill from scarfing up the sidewalls of the bore but of course, makes a tiny step.
Of course, now you have a "special" with all the PITA that decision implies.

Cheers

Marcus
Implant Mechanix • Design & Innovation > HOME
www.vancouverwireedm.com
 
This sounds interesting, I've never heard of a half round drill. Would you care to elaborate, do you have a link or a picture or something for me to reference against?


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Try this link.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/d-bits-154906/

lots of info in my older toolmaking books but not much readily available on the internet. Pretty easy after you do some looking at it.
 
I agree with reducing the spindle speed, but also having a proportional feed. Once you get to depth let the drill dwell for a few seconds before retracting.
 








 
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