Securing Solid Carbide Saw W/O Keyway

J

Jrill

Aluminum

Joined

Feb 11, 2013

Location

Northeast USA

• Nov 22, 2017

• #1

So I've never used a saw without a keyway before. It's a robbjack 3" diameter 0.125" thick 30 tooth saw for nonferrous, 1" arbor hole.

How tight should I make the screw holding the saw? Usually with keyed HSS saws I have done about 45ft/lbs, is that sufficient?

Also, can I use pretty much any old arbor? The one I have uses a 1/2-20 screw with a head that is 1.187 diameter. Is it fine or normal to secure a keyless carbide saw by basically only a 0.09-wide rim around the edge? I would love to use one of Robbjack's arbors but I need to be able to reach down a little over 2.5".

 

fmari --MariTool-

Titanium

Joined

Nov 15, 2005

Location

Illinois

• Nov 22, 2017

• #2

If it is a cat40 then try this...

CAT4-SSA1.-3.5 Slitting Saw Arbor Holder - Made in USA MariTool

I like to rough up the saw a little and put loctite on the tool holder arbor face and saw. That is why I make my slittling saw arbors with either a bunch of small holes or notches for gripping the loctite.

 

J

Jrill

Aluminum

Joined

Feb 11, 2013

Location

Northeast USA

• Dec 6, 2017

• #3

So how tight do you recommend making that screw if I don't use loc-tite? 40ft-lbs? 80? 120? Dodge Challenger Demon?

 

fmari --MariTool-

Titanium

Joined

Nov 15, 2005

Location

Illinois

• Dec 6, 2017

• #4

I dont see a reason why you wouldn't want to use loc-tite. Even just a little. Beats ruining a holder and breaking a saw.

 

J

Jrill

Aluminum

Joined

Feb 11, 2013

Location

Northeast USA

• Dec 6, 2017

• #5

Well it's cleaner and simpler to not use it and I figured if I made it tight enough I'd be ok, but, especially having never done it before I'll probably use it as an extra layer of safety. You have a good holder design.

 

A

atomarc

Diamond

Joined

Mar 16, 2009

Location

Eureka, CA

• Dec 6, 2017

• #6

This may not pertain to the solid carbide part of the question but in my experience, when properly assembled, if or when the saw tries to move it will self tighten the screw and flange and lock itself 100% solid. This usually requires more than the simple Allen wrench for removal of the saw from the arbor.

Cleaning the mating faces of the tool holder/flange and the saw blade with Brakleen will help keep the interfaces from slipping.

These observations were made with HSS saws versus carbide so this may be 'fake news'!

Stuart

 

GM

Cast Iron

Joined

Sep 28, 2004

Location

Californias Central Coast

• Dec 6, 2017

• #7

I've always had good luck with these arbors; http://www.petersonarbors.com/index.html for thinner saws. You don't have to use the supplied key if there's no keyslot in the saw.

 

O

onecut

Hot Rolled

Joined

Jun 27, 2013

Location

england-newcastle upon tyne

• Dec 7, 2017

• #8

The age old question of do I put a key in saw or dont I?My way of thinking is if its got a key cut in the saw you put a key in,Other fellow workers disagree and say if the saw gets jammed it will be able to slip back without shattering giving then time to hit the stop button and stop the feed.Who says your going to be looking at the job in that split second if it jams.So for me I always have a key in.Also I agree with post about the saw locking itself on the arbor if its keyless most I have seen without a keway cut in the saw are for wood.What happens if no key the saw will slip and lock the bolt holding the cutter gradually it will lock the nut tighter and tighter and either break the bolt head off or tighte the end nut so much it

 

drewboyer

Stainless

Joined

Apr 7, 2009

Location

Odessa, TX

• Dec 7, 2017

• #9

I don't know how everyone else does it, but usually when I tighten an arbor I turn it until it stops turning.

 

precisionmetal

Stainless

Joined

May 16, 2005

Location

CA

• Dec 7, 2017

• #10

Jrill said:

So I've never used a saw without a keyway before. It's a robbjack 3" diameter 0.125" thick 30 tooth saw for nonferrous, 1" arbor hole.

How tight should I make the screw holding the saw? Usually with keyed HSS saws I have done about 45ft/lbs, is that sufficient?

Also, can I use pretty much any old arbor? The one I have uses a 1/2-20 screw with a head that is 1.187 diameter. Is it fine or normal to secure a keyless carbide saw by basically only a 0.09-wide rim around the edge? I would love to use one of Robbjack's arbors but I need to be able to reach down a little over 2.5".

Click to expand...

Jrill,

IMHO, you're over-thinking it. The clamping force you can apply with a 1/2-20 is very significant. What is the major diameter of the arbor-side surface the slitting saw will be sitting against? Maybe make yourself a washer for the other side (under the head of the screw) that goes out to the same diameter, and make it nice and beefy (if you have the room for it in your job/setup).

Tighten thing thing up nice and snug, and don't get carried away with your feed rate. You'll be fine.

PM