End Mill Pull Out - Page 6
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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmari --MariTool- View Post
    I dont think many people are going to pay 164 for a 12mm 4 flute end mill.

    Nope, probably why the line is so small.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmari --MariTool- View Post
    I dont think many people are going to pay 164 for a 12mm 4 flute end mill.
    Only those that have deep discounts and an unfounded loyalty to the brand will buy those.

    Well there are others, that may need the added performance, but they aren't the masses that's for sure.

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    To add to the converstation, a turn key we got with our routers had snap ring grooves on the back end off all of the 12mm and large diameter tools. Pull that against the back of the collet and voila, no pull out. Would you spin and ruin a collet from time to time, sure, but you didn't ruin the part or hit the fixture as a result of a pulled out tool. It's easy to mod tools for that as well.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntinguy View Post
    I was always taught to pull the endmill out as I was tightening on the flat.you should feel the endmill pull back into the holder. The only way it could then pull out is if the screw came loose or sheared.
    winner winner chicken dinner!

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntinguy View Post
    I was always taught to pull the endmill out as I was tightening on the flat.you should feel the endmill pull back into the holder. The only way it could then pull out is if the screw came loose or sheared.
    I'm surprised that this even needs to be stated. Or that the set screw needs to be aligned with the flat, or that the tool goes in the hole, not the hole where the pull stud goes, not the set screw hole, but the hole with the smooth ID. Common cents are expensive these days.

    R

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    Quote Originally Posted by litlerob1 View Post
    I'm surprised that this even needs to be stated. Or that the set screw needs to be aligned with the flat, or that the tool goes in the hole, not the hole where the pull stud goes, not the set screw hole, but the hole with the smooth ID. Common cents are expensive these days.

    R
    you can tighten end mill set screw holder so end mill cannot come out any more or can set it so it wont get pushed further in holder. all depends on what has priority
    .
    for example if drill bit get pushed in too far in collet holder than tap or reamer going in shallow hole breaks. big reamers dont usually break quietly. they do some damage

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF_TomB View Post
    you can tighten end mill set screw holder so end mill cannot come out any more or can set it so it wont get pushed further in holder. all depends on what has priority
    .
    for example if drill bit get pushed in too far in collet holder than tap or reamer going in shallow hole breaks. big reamers dont usually break quietly. they do some damage
    Seems like the less that Deadly Kitten posts, the worse your posts get and have less to do with the actual topic. Like his lack of posting creates a stupidity vacuum that you just fill right up.


    But back on the topic - anyone use these the non-pullout collets for the uberchuck/emuge fpc chuck?

    I got one on order to try out.

    6637.25 | Emuge Corporation

  8. Likes [email protected], Mtndew, B-Mathews liked this post
  9. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesidetalker View Post
    Seems like the less that Deadly Kitten posts, the worse your posts get and have less to do with the actual topic. Like his lack of posting creates a stupidity vacuum that you just fill right up.


    But back on the topic - anyone use these the non-pullout collets for the uberchuck/emuge fpc chuck?

    I got one on order to try out.

    6637.25 | Emuge Corporation
    I said the same thing the other day! WTF is he thinking in his head when writing these erelavent posts. LOL

  10. #109
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    Excuse my ignorance here but maybe you all will indulge a newbie a bit.

    Push, Pull... Clearly the tool should be confirmed fit and tightening without question.
    If push or pull is occurring isn't the concern to be more related to feed rates based on material, propper tooling, coolant?

    The best holder & tool won't fix improperly applied rates? Etc...?

    Again, excuse my ignorance.

  11. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hot Headz Marine View Post
    Excuse my ignorance here but maybe you all will indulge a newbie a bit.

    Push, Pull... Clearly the tool should be confirmed fit and tightening without question.
    If push or pull is occurring isn't the concern to be more related to feed rates based on material, propper tooling, coolant?

    The best holder & tool won't fix improperly applied rates? Etc...?

    Again, excuse my ignorance.
    The objective is to remove a bottleneck. The combination of current generation tools, machines, and toolpaths creates a situation where tool retention is the weak link.

  12. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregormarwick View Post
    The objective is to remove a bottleneck. The combination of current generation tools, machines, and toolpaths creates a situation where tool retention is the weak link.
    Well put and Understood.thanks for a to the point greenhorn understandable response.

  13. #112
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    Default Chalk Solves Endmill Pullout!

    I kept having problems with pullout on a cnc lathe with live tooling, & happened to mention it to an old timer. He said to use contact cleaner on the collet & the cutter, then dip the cutter in chalk before assembling the cutter & collet back into the live tooling holder. I followed his advice thinking he was full of crap & just pulling my leg, but it actually worked very well. From then on I kept a small bottle of chalk for a chalkline in my toolbox & never had another problem with cutter pullout!!!!

  14. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by ewlsey View Post
    Plain old side lock tool holders.

    You get endmills with Weldon flats?


    If I was having an issue with pull-out, I would go to TG collets.
    A 75TG should work fine.
    They are the "long taper" older cousin of the ER, and the longer (read "shallower") taper provides much better grip.


    There are TG collets that have a spring loaded insert specifically for the Weldon flat if that's an issue, but I can't hardly imagine it would be. ???


    Also - I take it that you are running dry?
    Long cycle times?
    Is the holder getting hot and expanding?


    I'm new to this thread, so these bases were prolly already covered....






    ----------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox


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