Words of wisdom in replacing turning center view window ?

Milacron · Jul 8, 2014

Daewoo 230 MB, glass overall dimensions pretty small really...about 14 x 18 inches. Seems to be 1/4" safety glass stuck to 3/8 inch plastic (lexan ? plexiglass ?). And by "stuck" I mean some sort of thin double faced tape about 1" wide around the perimeter (that part is hidden behind the sheet metal when the window is in place)

Any idea if Doosan would want $$$ for one of these, and if so could most local glass shops recreate the same assembly ?

mcriner · Jul 8, 2014

Measure the old window outside dimensions and get 2 - 3/16 pieces of safety glass in this dimension and then get a piece of lexan that will make up the overall thickness of the window. Sandwich the sheets together with the lexan in the center making sure that the surfaces are clean that are together. Spread clear silicone around the outside and let it cure overnight so nothing can get between the sheets. You got yourself a replacement window. You use the glass on the outside because it does not scratch and lexan on the inside to keep a part or chuck from coming through the window, it will not shatter. Done this on a few and it works great and a whole lot cheaper than buying one from the manufacturer. Take my advice, make 2 or 3.

Vancbiker · Jul 8, 2014

mcriner is pretty much on the money here. Where I used to work we started doing it pretty much the same as he mentions. Then just for giggles we asked the glass company where we were getting the safety glass from if they could do the whole assembly. They said sure and quoted something around $65 for about a 20 x 20 window. Needless to say we quit assembling them ourselves.

ewlsey · Jul 8, 2014

Does this machine have bars or a pattern of smaller rectangular holes cut out for the window, or is it just the glass? If it has the bars, you can put whatever you want in there IMO, the steel is there to keep things contained. If it's just a window, it may be something special. Okuma now uses an open window on some lathes. They are pricey indeed.

If you were in an OSHA situation, usually you have to replace with an OEM window. There is a lot of liability in the little window. If this is for personal use, you can do whatever you want.

rlockwood · Jul 8, 2014

Milacron said:
Daewoo 230 MB, glass overall dimensions pretty small really...about 14 x 18 inches. Seems to be 1/4" safety glass stuck to 3/8 inch plastic (lexan ? plexiglass ?). And by "stuck" I mean some sort of thin double faced tape about 1" wide around the perimeter (that part is hidden behind the sheet metal when the window is in place)

Any idea if Doosan would want $$$ for one of these, and if so could most local glass shops recreate the same assembly ?

Sounds like what comes on the Mori mills we have; replacements were $$$, though I believe Mori wanted $$$$ for OEM ones.

Jashley73 · Jul 8, 2014

The safety glass windows on our Mazak HMC's, probably a 20" x 30" or thereabouts, are around $1,300...

You better believe Doosan will stick it to you when you see the price. I'd definitely be going the glass-polycarbonate-glass route myself.

rnmmhunter · Jul 8, 2014

Just replaced one last week. Glass that size would be around 25 bucks.Call a local glass place and get yourself a piece of 1/4" laminated glass. What it is 2 pieces of 1/8" glass glued together.If something hits the inside the outside stays intact. If you can"t find one locally I can get u the number.

ARB · Jul 8, 2014

I just put on in our Hardinge. IRRC about 900 from Hardinge.... About 3/4" thick

toolsteel · Jul 8, 2014

Not trying to be a downer here......do the "do it yourself" methods pass OSHA?.....or are the guys who use that method not being visited by the safety nuts?

Putch · Jul 8, 2014

I smashed one out of an Okuma Cadet in my earliest years. 3 1/2" dia. by the same length stainless gripped onto by a .05" deep pocket in aluminum soft jaws facing .05" passes with a 1500 max rpm (don't know what sfm, didn't know the calculations then). Soon as the tool touched the piece WHAM! it was in my face, bent up the sheet metal on the door next to the window which slowed it down enough to keep it from coming through, but the safety glass did hold up enough to not puncture or completely shatter. Scared the living shit outta me - I almost went home but my partner in crime talked me into finishing out the day

Milacron · Jul 8, 2014

One thing I wonder about...the specialized double faced tape that held the plexiglass or lexan to the safety glass...no matter how thin it was there would still be a slight air gap between glass and plastic. I'm wondering if that gap would leave the safety glass more prone to shatter ? Seems like if the glass was against the plastic 100 percent, the plastic would increase the shatter resistance of the glass. Thoughts ?

Kallam · Jul 8, 2014

Milacron said:
One thing I wonder about...the specialized double faced tape that held the plexiglass or lexan to the safety glass...no matter how thin it was there would still be a slight air gap between glass and plastic. I'm wondering if that gap would leave the safety glass more prone to shatter ? Seems like if the glass was against the plastic 100 percent, the plastic would increase the shatter resistance of the glass. Thoughts ?

Contact
Precision Glass Bending: CUSTOM BENT GLASS SPECIALISTS

They make laminated safety glass . Two pieces of safety glass with a piece of
lexan laminated between them. There glued to together with no air gaps.

You can get it any thickness or size Mine was about 5/8 inch thick 24 x 24.
The manufacturer of my lathe wanted $900
They charged me $132 .

rklopp · Jul 8, 2014

Speaking from experience, if this machine is for resale, be really careful with opting for non-OEM windows. As-is-where-is language in your sales contract only goes so far against a crafty lawyer. If there's an incident, the lawyer will go after whatever pockets they can find, which might be yours or your insurance company's. Lawyers won't care if the window you made is better than OEM.

I had a case in which the owner replaced a CNC lathe window with plywood. Some poor guy got hurt badly by an ejected part that came through the plywood. Due to workman's comp laws, the accident victim could not sue his employer, so he went after the lathe maker for ... drum roll ... failure to warn against replacing the window with plywood. The case never got to court, but the victim (and his lawyer) got a big payout because the victim, who was an innocent bystander with a ton of kids, was now a vegetable. The jury would have felt sorry for the guy, and not some faceless foreign machine manufacturer.

Milacron · Jul 9, 2014

rklopp said:
Speaking from experience, if this machine is for resale, be really careful with opting for non-OEM windows. As-is-where-is language in your sales contract only goes so far against a crafty lawyer. If there's an incident, the lawyer will go after whatever pockets they can find, which might be yours or your insurance company's. Lawyers won't care if the window you made is better than OEM.

I had a case in which the owner replaced a CNC lathe window with plywood. Some poor guy got hurt badly by an ejected part that came through the plywood. Due to workman's comp laws, the accident victim could not sue his employer, so he went after the lathe maker for ... drum roll ... failure to warn against replacing the window with plywood. The case never got to court, but the victim (and his lawyer) got a big payout because the victim, who was an innocent bystander with a ton of kids, was now a vegetable. The jury would have felt sorry for the guy, and not some faceless foreign machine manufacturer.

I guess that partially explains why OEM windows are insanely expensive....they figure everyone will be a worry wart like you and pay up no matter what. I figure if I make one better than the original the chance of it actually allowing an object thru is near zero so I'm not worried about it. As to the plywood one, the owner was obviously a complete moron (by choice, not by genetics) so he deserved to get what was coming to him.

Milacron · Jul 9, 2014

mcriner said:
Measure the old window outside dimensions and get 2 - 3/16 pieces of safety glass in this dimension and then get a piece of lexan that will make up the overall thickness of the window. Sandwich the sheets together with the lexan in the center making sure that the surfaces are clean that are together. Spread clear silicone around the outside and let it cure overnight so nothing can get between the sheets. You got yourself a replacement window. You use the glass on the outside because it does not scratch and lexan on the inside to keep a part or chuck from coming through the window, it will not shatter. Done this on a few and it works great and a whole lot cheaper than buying one from the manufacturer. Take my advice, make 2 or 3.

Was at my glass guy this morning. From past experiences with them I know they are pretty sharp guys...and they think what you propose would be weaker than the original with 1/4" tempered glass and 3/8" thick plexiglass* so I'm going with original except mine will be even better due to no air gap between glass and plastic.

------------------

*they can tell it is plexiglass by the way it "thumps". I also took them a Robodrill door window and that one they could tell is Lexan by the way it sounds...also by how clean the drilled holes are near the edges.

PBMW · Jul 9, 2014

Don
I replaced one in my Daewoo 220A a while ago. 2007 or so
It was about $700 installed.
Dipshit tossed a boreing bar through is when the drill came out of the holder and the BB rapided into the drill sticking out of the part.

Milacron · Jul 9, 2014

PBMW said:
Don
I replaced one in my Daewoo 220A a while ago. 2007 or so
It was about $700 installed.

Installed by who ? Speaking of which, this Daewoo door is so heavy that I figure it would be tough for two guys to manhandle it off and back on, plus no easy way to attach a strap to lift with forklift..... so I figured out I could get on a ladder and step inside the lathe, close the door, unscrew the window frame and remove it from the inside. Was actually pretty easy...glad I didn't remove the door. Obviously if one was 6'4", 230 lbs this would be problematic but for average size person, not bad at all.

As an aside, what a wonderful door this is...heavy built and slides smooth as silk. Seems like every other CNC turn center I've ever owned, the door felt kinda light and rattled a bit as it was closed..including early 90 vintage Okuma's. This Daewoo door is fantastic. Also the way they did the framework for the window is perfect as well...heavy steel pocket to receive the glass, thick and wide rubber gasketing with serious steel framework screwed over that to seal the deal...nice craftsmanship from Korea.

Milacron · Jul 9, 2014

mcriner said:
Measure the old window outside dimensions and

Oh....really ? Gee...would never have thought of that...

PBMW · Jul 9, 2014

Milacron said:
Installed by who ? Speaking of which, this Daewoo door is so heavy that I figure it would be tough for two guys to manhandle it off and back on, plus no easy way to attach a strap to lift with forklift..... so I figured out I could get on a ladder and step inside the lathe, close the door, unscrew the window frame and remove it from the inside. Was actually pretty easy...glad I didn't remove the door. Obviously if one was 6'4", 230 lbs this would be problematic but for average size person, not bad at all.

As an aside, what a wonderful door this is...heavy built and slides smooth as silk. Seems like every other CNC turn center I've ever owned, the door felt kinda light and rattled a bit as it was closed..including early 90 vintage Okuma's. This Daewoo door is fantastic. Also the way they did the framework for the window is perfect as well...heavy steel pocket to receive the glass, thick and wide rubber gasketing with serious steel framework screwed over that to seal the deal...nice craftsmanship from Korea.

CNC Services here in Wa. The same folks I bought it from.
And yes, it is a nicely built machine

Milacron · Jul 9, 2014

PBMW said:
CNC Services here in Wa. The same folks I bought it from.

OK... but it would probably cost me that much just in travel time from the nearest Doosan dealer. Plus now that I know I can deal with it without even removing the door, it's quick and easy anyway.

Words of wisdom in replacing turning center view window ?

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