Fixture/pie jaw question............

david n · Jan 29, 2018

So...I have this here part that I will be running in this set up.....................(ignore the chuck jaws. they are for a different job) ...................And yes, a set of dual station vises would be the best option, but I ain't got any and I'm not buyin' 'em for this job.

I plan on running OP 1 on the left two chucks holding onto about .125". Face mill, profile, drill holes, and chamfer. OP two on the right two chucks. Deck the part to thickness and chamfer. The question I have is due to the "D" shape of the part, will just some soft jaws like I have in the pick work or should I go to pie jaws as I need to orientate the flat? The other question I have is I hardly ever hog material in these 3 jaws. I mainly use them for smallish parts with light machining. I'm wondering how much grip I will have for the profile and hoggin out the window?

TIA..............................

Finegrain · Jan 29, 2018

P1 -- Versa Grip jaws on a regular vise. These grip like a pit bull on a T-bone and you can mill as hard as you want
P2 -- soft jaws on a regular vise, which solves the orientation issue

Regards.

Mike

david n · Jan 29, 2018

I want to run two parts at a time................OP 1, OP 2, and OP3 on the 4th.................two finished parts with every green button...............one at a time is a time killer....................the first time through this job was two 6" vises. I have 500 pcs to run.

Finegrain · Jan 29, 2018

K, start with flat bar instead of round and do 2x P1 on the left and 2x P2 on the right

.

But if it must be done in the 3-jaws, then you can make Versa Grip jaws that go on a 3-jaw chuck. That is how I do such parts in my CNC lathe. P2 still has the orientation issue, but I suppose you could carve soft jaws in the chucks to fit the parts.

Regards.

Mike

david n · Jan 29, 2018

Flat bar wastes too much material............................might go with versa grips on the first OP. :scratchchin:

Or cut soft jaws and relive them with a dovetail cutter to give me more of a knife edge. The hard jaws I have don't lend themselves to clamping on .125" of material..............

I'm more wondering how 1" wide steel soft jaws like those in the pic will orientate the flat? One jaw will be on the flat and the other two on the OD of the part? Never really use these 3 jaws for non round parts............That's why I asked about pie jaws................or maybe it would be overkill?

Mud · Jan 29, 2018

I'd weld a hunk of 1018 CRS on to the soft jaw aligned with the X axis to make it look like a T and mill it to orient the part. Mill the T jaw and the other 2 jaws the same way you'd mill pie jaws.

Nice base for the chucks BTW.

FK · Jan 29, 2018

My vote is pie jaws. I don't think you will like the orientation ability of only a 1" wide jaw. If, however, you want to use existing jaws as shown in picture, how about cutting the jaws so that two of them are locating on the ends of the flat and the third jaw is pushing on the center of the radius?

david n · Jan 29, 2018

Mud said:
I'd weld a hunk of 1018 CRS on to the soft jaw aligned with the X axis to make it look like a T and mill it to orient the part. Mill the T jaw and the other 2 jaws the same way you'd mill pie jaws.

Nice base for the chucks BTW.

I like that idea............I think I'll run with it.

Limy Sami · Jan 29, 2018

david n said:
I like that idea............I think I'll run with it.

I would David, keep it simple stupid has a lot going for it.

david n · Feb 22, 2018

Runnin' parts..............................I used Mud's idea.......................... :cheers:

...................................

Antarctica · Feb 22, 2018

Cool! I didn't see the fourth on the table also.

Did you make the bases for the 3jaw chucks?

david n · Feb 22, 2018

Bases.................yeah a long time ago. Made 'em outa ali so I wouldn't kill my back humpin' 'em in and outa the machine.

cnctoolcat · Feb 22, 2018

Looks great David!

Be careful loading op2, as it's possible for the jaw flat to catch the part near the end of the flat, rather than along the entire length of the flat.

I use a similar principle to locate/orient parts, it's surprisingly easy to think the flat is making full contact, when in fact it's a couple or three degrees off.

ToolCat

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