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fixture plate ideas

6061t6

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Location
phoenix, az
Have any of you made any fixture plates similar to this image? I do not have access to funds for the hydraulic portion (yet). I have more and more jobs requiring clamping to a 2 7/8" x 3/8" bar stock in 6061-t6. I am machining the top then flipping over and machining the bottom, no outside contouring thankfully and there is a round nipple that gets done on the 1st op that I can locate off of for the 2nd op.

Without using hydraulics, what would be the cheapest/easiest way to create clamping force required? I like to push my 1/2" endmill fairly rough at around 180ipm when I can if not more so I dont need these things popping out and destroying $70 endmills left and right.

I have been doing 4 per double vise with versagrip's without any issues and then softjaws for the 2nd op. I would like to use a single fixture plate that takes up the entire work envelope of the machine if possible. 2000 of these things a month really add up in time and toolchanges not to mention forearm fatigue!

I would prefer to make all components in house to some degree, tolerance on these parts are .005 or worse and the 2nd op makes absolutely no difference, its just to remove some material on the back side for weight. (and they get welded to a tube as a cap in the end)

paws workholding multi vise, large round parts, hydraulic clamping (Small).jpg

so the question is...how would YOU do it?
 
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that part in the picture is not my part, that is an example fixture off the paws website.

my part has an offset round bung sticking up and i dont have a lathe with y axis or live tooling.

the reverse side is the same as side 1 only not critical at all, just the bung is equal as long as the side 1 just need material removed for weight reasons. its a fixture affair for sure..not a lathe part in my case.
 
You could make jaws for your vice that are twice as long as your vice jaws now,
machine your pockets for 8 parts,or 10 parts ect. drill for 1/2 maybe 3/8 clear.holes thru 3 jaws closest to you
and thread the farthest, air ratshit them tight.
I run 8 parts in a single Kurt this way.

If your running as you say a double vice,you will need a spacer betwix your 2 center jaws I think.

I use springs that the bolts go thru to help pop it open when vice gets opened.

You must remember to loosen bolts before vice, then titen vice first,then bolts for machining
Gw
 
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i have 30" X and 15" Y right now travel wise so id like to cram as many as i can on a fixture plate, running 2000 of these per month is really eating up available time on my machine. im drawing some ideas in solidworks right now and ill post as i go. Sure wish i had a surface grinder in house now! maybe ill buy one after i sell one of my vmc's
 
I have used a wedge clamp setup on a part similar to these. less milling force though. The parts where about 6 inch diameter and the fixture had a solid jaw on the back and front with a wedge clamp in the middle for clamping two parts with one clamp. We pushed a 3/4 inch drill thru them at 50 imp with no trouble and never had one come out. The clamps wherer store bought but I am sure you could make them. I don't know how much they cost. It is basically a u shaped peice that bolts into a bocket on your plate with a hole through the center for the clamping bolt and then a wedge piece that spreads the clamp when you tighten the center bolt.
 
1PC COMPLETE ASSEMBLY (Small).jpgbase2 (Small).jpgjaw1 (Small).jpgassembly-complete-split (Small).jpgassembly-complete (Small).jpg

I have seen them but they cost more than I care to spend on them...upwards of $130 for a 7.5" rail with the steel wedge. For that kind of money ill be making my own that i can use for other project in the future. Here is what i have so far rendering wise. let me know what you think...once im done ill post my solidworks files for everyone.
 
Not knowing what your part exactly looks like, but an offset circular feature doesn't always require a fancy lathe, just offset jaws.
 
I can absolutely assure you that my lathe..with offset jaws..could not pop out 2000 of these faster than a mill with this type of fixture arrangement. I rough these at 200ipm and then hit them with a drill, chamfer, and then a 1/8" ball mill then flip them over and rough the backside with a 1/2" endmil leaving a small bung. Ill post a pic of the part, its super simple
 
Not knowing what your part exactly looks like, but an offset circular feature doesn't always require a fancy lathe, just a 4 jaw chuck.



Fixt that for you.

To the OP............howzabout resizing your pics to, say, 800X600 in the future.
Scrolling back and forth to read your post is supremely annoying.


Rex
 
I've seen people use the machinable "mitee bite" clamps for round parts as you shown in your sw model, but those are to spendy in my opinion. I have parts similar that i am wanting to do the same as you. Ironically your design is pretty much the same as what i had in mind. I've heard that the mitee bite can push the back stop out .020, so I'd set the "back stop" into the base plate.
 
my back stop will be dowel pinned and bolted, that should be sufficient i would think, a lot more accurate too.... Once I am done with it all ill post up the files so you can have them. What cad program do you use?
 
more i tinker with this setup the more i think im going to really enjoy it....most if not all of the parts I currently do are under 2 inches long, ill have the ability to run 28 parts at 2 inches a piece in 1 setup with softjaws that cost a fraction of what kurt style softjaws use.

I know this setup doesnt take over even using say the versagrips, talon grips, uniforce, tiny vise, or pitbulls that i use quite often, but with this setup depending on the amount of clamping force im able to get, i could couple or just even make the jaws out of steel, then use my talon grips for even more holding power (those things are really awesome btw)
 
m_uniforce_2.jpg
 
dstryr,
yes those are what i was referring to....expensive. I have more time then money myself...6061t6 sounds to be in the same boat as me.
 








 
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