Guitar neck Mastercam struggle - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    I programmed a bunch of guitar stuff for Jim Olson about 20 years ago. We used a four or five inch long 1" solid carbide ball doing a flowline path, and barely required any sanding after necks came out of the machine. I wonder about your approach using tabs; that's going to waste material when you get into expensive woods, and I'm not sure it's as rigid as it could be. We would cut the top flat and put in a couple dowel holes, then put it on a vacuum fixture with pins for the holes and cut the back. Then the pins would match with shallow holes in the back of the fretboard to ensure alignment. Same thing cutting the fretboards. Take a look here:
    The FADAL | James A. Olson Guitars

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  3. #22
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    I use a constant scallop for finish machining on guitar back shapes. we are using X9. Clockwise machining direction, outside to inside, for a constant climb cut. Also that way you use the side of the tool more not just the nose.

    RPM 16k, Ipm 500, 3/4" 2 flute ball endmill, stepover is .040", and arc filter is 5/95% with a .001 tolerence.

    A harder wood like maple should have a better finish as well.

    I do rough cut the heel area surface with a finish contour, just to keep the tear-out to a minimum.
    Same tool, same RPM, 300 IPM, .07" step down, one way climb cut.

    I also use check surfaces to limit the cutting area.

    At these numbers the whole program takes about 5-6 minutes and has a very nice surface finish. We start sanding with 150-180 paper.

    If the picture attached works. The green surfaces are drive, the purple are check surfaces.

    guitar-carve.jpg

    I hope this helps.
    Darran

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  5. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
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    Thank you everyone for the help. I'm currently trying different things you all helped with. I will let you know what worked with my set up.


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