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Help me fix my chuck (Kitagawa 250-B, cylinder-Kitagawa F0933H-15Y) Mazak QT6T

Tap_or_Die

Cast Iron
Joined
Apr 4, 2014
Location
Oklahoma, USA
I need help repairing the chuck on a Mazak Quick Turn 6T. It started leaking hydraulic fluid from chuck jaws, I can only imagine the orings in the cylinder have finally gone bad. It has done this before, but the previous foreman told us to turn down the chuck pressure. Not at all, "a fix".

Any way, I have already taken the chuck off and cleaned, prepped for reassembly, the runout was around .0001 of an inch. I did find a few nicks and scrapes, so I lightly stoned them out.

The part I need help with, well lets just say the rest of it, I don't have a manual or any instruction on the procedures necessary to disassemble the hydraulic cylinder, Nor have I ever done one before. I also have never put one back in. I"m curious if I'll have to adjust runout on the chuck after the repairs are made. Im guessing the entire cylinder system and draw tube are coming out. I did try to remove the cover behind the chuck, but its not moving, so I come to you guys for advice. What do I need to do to get this thing fixed...
 
I have a rebuild manual for a Kitagawa and have rebuilt them. Yes you will need to remove your draw tube. Everything needs to be indicated back in when installing, especially the chuck and clamp cylinder. Also mark every adjoining piece with an orientation line or punch marks for reassembly as you take them apart. This goes for chucks too as some are balanced after assembly. PM me your email and I'll send you what I have.

Forgot to add, you need to mark your prox switches and hydraulic lines on the actuator(cylinder). I use small colored zip ties.

I just checked and the manual lists the F0933H consumable parts.
 
Thank you OB,

What does indicating the chuck and clamp cylinder require, is it jaw #1 to top position? Or are we talking about a more involved install? I have read somewhere the draw nut needs to be set at a measured length, I'm not sure how to do that...
 
I am not a Mazak guy and I do not know what chuck you have. However, if the chuck pilots on the spindle I still check the face runout and the OD runout of the chuck to make sure there is no burr or debris under the chuck. If the chuck has 4 pusher set screws you need to tram the body of the chuck in before final tightening using the pusher screws to adjust. You can then cut your jaws if needed.

The draw tube threads all the way into the clamp cylinder and if the draw tube is the correct length it should also bottom out on the chuck. This should give you the right amount of travel. If not you will have to adjust the chuck to draw tube. Most 3 jaw chucks have a line on the master jaws to indicate the stroke travel. When properly adjusted you should see full travel on the lines on the chuck and the master jaws. Always use anti-seize on the draw tube threads. The TIR readings in the Kitagawa document are in millimeters. I sent you my number last night in case you run into any problems or have questions. Daryl
 
Daryl,

Thanks for all your help, I have successfully removed the cylinder from the machine, and it does seem to be leaking. The draw tube was put in last with a pipe wrench, and we all know thats not good. I used a heat gun and was able to get it out. I then realized they forgot to put anti-seize on the threads.

I do think the warranty is better if we have kitagawa do the repairs. Could be somewhere between $1000-$2900 to have it fixed, but they do a 5 hour test for rpm and pressure, with a 1 year guarantee.


Anyway, thanks again, I may be calling you when I go to put it all back together.


20150311_105010_resized.jpg20150311_131831_resized.jpg
 
The o-ring kit is less than $200.00 and to install it should only be an hour or two tops. Most of your labor will be from indicating in the actuator assembly. If you don't do this, you will have an out of balance condition on your spindle and you will also have a hard time getting large dia. shafts to feed into the chuck correctly.

If you can get the chuck in and out, that's the hard part. New o-rings in the chuck is easy.
 
From kitagawa the kit was $375, I do agree I could take it apart repair it myself. If it was my decision....I couldn't test it without putting it all back together.
 
Well this was a 3800 mistake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We sent it off like this
20150311_131831_resized (1).jpg



got it back like this
20150320_133111_resized.jpg
20150320_133019_resized.jpg


Kitagawa says it wasnt their fault, what a crock of l;kasdfglkzsdh., Now we have to send it back for them to look at it and tell us the same probably.
 
So we got the cylinder back, its good, except for the fact they also bent the bore tube, now our bar sleeves wont fit. Think I should just grind it away but im waiting to hear from them to see if they'll warranty it at all....2015-04-02 09.15.48_resized.jpg
 








 
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