Hurco KMB1 Y Axis Leadscrew Removal

The Y-axis leadscrew on my trusty old KMB1 has started making angry noises. Apparently it has not been getting any oil, so disassembly is in order.
I've never had the table off of this machine (or any cnc for that matter) and was wondering if forum members familiar with this particular model Hurco had any insights to share? My primary concerns are realignment of the ballscrew nuts and gib adjustment.
Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
David.

I'm assuming you have confirmed the screw is trashed, because if its just the noise you are going by, a servo motor badly out of adjustment or badly worn brushes in the motor sound pretty ugly. And it may be the support bearings and not the screw, so be cautious. So pull the side door off the knee on the right side. You don't say if its a B or BX machine and the y axis encoder mounting is different depending. If its a BX, loosen the set screws in one side of the encoder coupling and then remove the screws holding the encoder mount casting to the front cover. You can then pull the encoder and mount off, being careful to not stretch the coupling in the process. Then remove the cover from the belt housing- you can reverse a few of the screws and there are threaded holes to help jack the cover off. I recall there are several spring pins that dowel the cover to he housing. Loosen the cap screws that tension the belt and remove that. The sprockets are taper lock and easy to remove. At that point pull the motor out thru the side door. The motor and tach leads are on molex connectors and just pop apart.
Next remove the ball screw support bearing locknuts on the end of the screw. After this, remove the SHCSs holding the belt housing on the front of the knee, and pull the housing forward to remove. I can't remember if there are any threaded jacking holes in the housing to help with this. The ball nut is held on the bottom of the saddle with SHCS- 4ea I believe. There are also two threaded taper pins that align the nut and these will need to be pulled. Here is the trick for getting those out. They will be metric and I don't remember the size. Make a small slide hammer with the correct screw brazed or welded on the end- it cant be too long as you need to get this inside the knee thru the side door. Pop those pins and the nut and screw will drop and come out thru the front of the knee. Reassembly is just the reverse process- no alignment or anything. DON"T take the screw out of the nut to make disassembly easier unless you like searching for all the balls. The gib adjustment is set my monitoring the motor current with a clamp on amp meter on the motor leads, but I doubt it needs adjustment. One more thing, when you reinstall the motor- later machines has a sheetmetal shield over the motor to keep lube oil out the of the motor- if you machine does not have one, make on up out of some 020 sheet metal and hold it in place with a big hose clamp. Oh- when waa the last time you checked the motor brushes and the tack brushes- they usually get neglected because of it being such a PITA to remove the motor. Dan

Thanks Dan,
It's a BX machine and I have never checked the motor or tach brushes.

If that's the case, then pull the motor, take the brushes out and blow the motor out thru the brush holders. Check the brush length and replace if really short. Brush dust can pack up in the holders and keep the brushes from making good contact with the commutators. Then replace the motor and retune the drive. Sounds like it might be a good time to check all three motors if you have never done it. Midwest CNC or Accurite Machine Tool has brushes available for the Electrocraft motors- not sure if you can still source them directly.

Thanks again Dan.