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Injection mold - side action technique

kaemd

Plastic
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
hello,

I've been making plastic injection mold for 2 years, made about 5 mold which was a success for a beginner.

Now I want to try a small mold with side core action.

I am a bit lost, I found many kind of sidecore action technique, and don't know the pros and cons of each type.

I seem to like the one with only the side core pushed back by springs , and an upper core that push the side core by 35degree . for the ease of machining.

I want to avoid the side core pins, cause I havn't the material to make an inclined hole in the mold plate.

any suggestion please .
 
Not quite sure of spring loaded cores, don't think I have ever seen one. Instead of pecker pins you could use either a hydraulic action or cam action with core keyed to the force.

TOM
 
hello,

I've been making plastic injection mold for 2 years, made about 5 mold which was a success for a beginner.

Now I want to try a small mold with side core action.

I am a bit lost, I found many kind of sidecore action technique, and don't know the pros and cons of each type.

I seem to like the one with only the side core pushed back by springs , and an upper core that push the side core by 35degree . for the ease of machining.

I want to avoid the side core pins, cause I havn't the material to make an inclined hole in the mold plate.

any suggestion please .

You dont have a bridgeport, or cant scribe lines and setup in a cnc to do horn pins?
Horn pins are easy, and cheap. I sure as hell wouldnt trust a sprung action. One overfilled part, and youve got smashed ej pins and various other messes on your hands....
Horn pins and wedge blocks should also be done 2 degrees different from each other, so the actions are never fighting each other.

Cheers
 
For prototype parts or real low volume quantitys you can also go with a handload for undercut details. For short travel the lock can also have the cam action built in one piece.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
thank you very much , I guess I will go with horn pins, I set up a plan to be able to do angle hole in my cnc machine , will givw u update once I get time to try it .
 
Be sure to oval the horn pin holes in your slides to accommodate the 2 degree differential from the heel blocks.....

So you mean that I need to oval the holes with an endmill after drilling through. I thought making a hole 1mm bigger in diameter compared to pins diameter will be enough ?

I will be using this tutorial Undercut Process

an other question do I need to heat treat any part? actually I will be manufacturing all the parts needed,
 
Yeah, just an oversize hole will work, but i like my stuff to look nice.
Make sure your slides and heel blocks are dissimilar metals at different hardnesses, or youll get galling anyways.
Depending on part volume, i like inserting a wear plate on the heels. They can be replaced after a million shots, as opposed to building up the slides and re-spotting.
You can purchase premade slide assemblies from DME. Just cut the pockets in the plates, and away you go.
 
Yeah, just an oversize hole will work, but i like my stuff to look nice.
Make sure your slides and heel blocks are dissimilar metals at different hardnesses, or youll get galling anyways.
Depending on part volume, i like inserting a wear plate on the heels. They can be replaced after a million shots, as opposed to building up the slides and re-spotting.
You can purchase premade slide assemblies from DME. Just cut the pockets in the plates, and away you go.

If I had easy access to built assemblies I would never try to build them my self , I am the laziest person on earth.

wear plates can be made from mild steel !?
 
wear plates can be made from mild steel !?

Not really, unless you case harden them. O1 (or Gauge Plate in the UK) is perfect for this.
We usually make the slide blocks from P20 and then Nitride them, though they generally have an inserted H13/A2/En30B core for the actual feature
 








 
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