Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Largest Manufacturing Technology Community on the Web
Stay Connected:
looking at old okumas' oil in tail stock
- Thread starter landslide
- Start date
- Replies 19
- Views 3,873
machtool
Diamond
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2004
- Location
- Melbourne Australia
You can do the seal kit much cheaper, if you identify them your self. They will be JIS section O-rings. O-ring numbers will start with a P or a G. Its not uncommon for them to be weeping at that age.
Regards Phil
Regards Phil
ewlsey
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2009
- Location
- Peoria, IL
I don't know how much you will like that turret layout with a tailstock. That's more of a chucker setup.
Vancbiker
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Location
- Vancouver, WA. USA
I never ran one in production, but worked on a few. It worked OK actually. The tailstock is a swing in/out type. IIRC the standard spec for the tailstock was programmable for swing in/out and quill extend/retract. A very solid machine.
Thank you for the feed-back.
the controllers are also very old. osp5000L which people are warning me against.
my mills controller is 0m-a and while it is as old as the osp5000L it sound much more adaptable and user frendly compared to the okuma.
the controllers are also very old. osp5000L which people are warning me against.
my mills controller is 0m-a and while it is as old as the osp5000L it sound much more adaptable and user frendly compared to the okuma.
can you elaborate on the potential issues?
Being a mill guy I can't spot the issues as I probably have not encountered them. I can see how you could have tool clearance issues when using the tail stock. the potential to run the turret into the tailstock. looks like the tool sickout would adjust for this.
clearance and tool changes with long boring and drilling tools is also an issue.
Your probably right all in all, but on that machine simple change of the soft limits is easy, so the turret doesn't need to be tucked all the way back there. In fact it may be pushed back there on purpose just for shipping/transport
Someone comparing a Fanuc 0m to OSP-5000 isn't qualified to make the comparison, as there is not one to make. OSP controls are ahead of any Fanuc controls era for era, hands down. OSP is not Fanuc, that is all. There is not one advantage I can think of that any Fanuc control has over OSP.....Oh 1. easier to use multiple work zero's, (note I said easier, using 54,55,56,57 is easier and quicker---not impossible on OSP) thats the only one. And Fanuc is everywhere.
Robert
maybe not a fair comparison I agree. But I have read in an old post these old controls have a lot of draw backs in terms of optional parameters. eg can't be DNC, rs232 is unreliable, options can't be changed without reloading software from 8" floppy. Things I would be confident of doing with a Fanuc OT due to all the information available.
ewlsey
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2009
- Location
- Peoria, IL
It's about what you get used to. Those old OSP controls had some odd quirks. No rapid override unless you are in single block. No graphics. Unable to change tools except at the home position. Etc.
The biggest problem for the old Okuma machines is getting electrical parts. They are getting hard and harder to get and the prices have gone from high to crazy.
The biggest problem for the old Okuma machines is getting electrical parts. They are getting hard and harder to get and the prices have gone from high to crazy.
Vancbiker
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Location
- Vancouver, WA. USA
In terms of buying an old machine and hoping to keep it running, Fanuc is #1. The OP will have greater parts availability, broader knowledge base available, and greater number of options if he has to hire a tech for service with a Fanuc. The OSP is a nicer control from an operator and programmer point of view, but from a maintenance POV, go Fanuc.
If this machine is an OSP5000L-G it is a much better control than the OSP5000L. You won't need DNC on a lathe. RS232 is 100% reliable on the L-G. You should be sure it comes with the original 8" floppies and all the manuals. If those are missing your ability to keep it going is greatly reduced.
I wouldn't have any piece of equipment without blocking everything in. But definitely the tailstock, both directions. The quill is programmable, but the tailstock housing itself isn't very secure.
I'm hard on the Fanuc guys when doing a side by side with OSP, but as always the biker from the 'couve and ewlsey make very good points.
R
Vancbiker
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Location
- Vancouver, WA. USA
Control preferences are a funny thing. Some folks get pretty worked up over the subject. I'm partial to Meldas for a few reasons. I usually don't advise them for others as the knowledge base is quite small. They are OK to run, and usually are configured standard with nice programming/operation features that are options from the F word.
"Funny" is not the word I would use to describe the argument of preference, but okay. I think using a piece of coal to write a dissertation on cellular modeling and synthetic regeneration, would be funny.
Funuc is everywhere, so there is a wealth of information, I appreciate that. I like Meldas and Heidenhain, I hate Celos because of the touch screen and Fanuc because.....duh duh duh duhn.....because with all the models over the years, Fanuc hasn't really changed that much, it's still clunky and uncomfortable, it's still counter-intuitive, still has the same issues like it requires batteries before you lose all your data and parameters (I mean really we can't get passed that one?) But just different enough to be Apple-ish. Sorry I only vent because I am stuck with them most days. 
R
Vancbiker
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Location
- Vancouver, WA. USA
"Funny" (as in I find it amusing) that some folks get pretty worked up over something of no, IMHO, importance.
Long ago I came to the conclusion that any CNC was a good control as long as it was reliable, and ran the machine well. If those requirements are not met, that's a crap control. The menu format, button push sequence, and so on are just familiarity things to me. Once you learn it a bit it becomes easy.
Touchscreens even. My personal CNC has a Meldas with touchscreen. A t first it seemed a bit awkward, but now fingers fly around on it and it's good. Better or worse than others? No, just different.
Long ago I came to the conclusion that any CNC was a good control as long as it was reliable, and ran the machine well. If those requirements are not met, that's a crap control. The menu format, button push sequence, and so on are just familiarity things to me. Once you learn it a bit it becomes easy.
Touchscreens even. My personal CNC has a Meldas with touchscreen. A t first it seemed a bit awkward, but now fingers fly around on it and it's good. Better or worse than others? No, just different.
Vancbiker
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Location
- Vancouver, WA. USA
5000L-G uses bubble memory for long-term storage, so no batteries needed.
Thanks Vancbiker.
can any of you lathe guys clear up my understanding of maximum turning diameter. I think the LB10 may be too small for the diameter i want to work with.
The manual lists the maximum turning radius as 150mm or 5.9", and x axis travel as 150mm (5.9").
is the maximum turning diameter considered with std OD tooling in mind or is it really 20mm or so less once you stick an OD tool in there?
can any of you lathe guys clear up my understanding of maximum turning diameter. I think the LB10 may be too small for the diameter i want to work with.
The manual lists the maximum turning radius as 150mm or 5.9", and x axis travel as 150mm (5.9").
is the maximum turning diameter considered with std OD tooling in mind or is it really 20mm or so less once you stick an OD tool in there?
Ask the right question, you must, young Landslide.
Really, to be safe you shouldn't exceed the rated diameter per the manufacturers spec...That said, I have turned scary diameters, much bigger than what the chuck was rated for. You have a 6" chuck, so the rating is 5.9", that is a pretty good size for that size chuck.
I have turned 45-48" diameters on an 18" chuck, after removing way covers and some interesting tool placement and holders. NOT recommended.
For starters though, measure the distance from centerline of the chuck to the closest edge of the way covers (this is your swing, remember the jaws), or to the closest edge of the turning tool to get an idea of what you can do outside the range of what is recommended. Beyond that is up to you.
R
