Machining 1020 A36 question

Dupa3872 · Feb 6, 2018

I don't do a lot in 1020 or A36 I have a new customer asking me to make some parts out of either. It's 10-3/8 round and 1 inch thick. Dished out like a frying pan with strait walls.

It has with a 3/16 thick wall and 1/4 thick bottom. It also has a horse shoe type cut out...... lots of material coming out, I'M worried about it springing open when I remove the wall. Should I worry about this material warping and moving on me it has some close tolerances ? Should I rough them and anneal ?

Whats more stable 1020 or A36 ?

Thanks

Make Chips Boys !

Ron

Ox · Feb 6, 2018

I turn the stuff with some regularity, but kan't answer your Q, other than that I would expect them both to be similar since neither would be C/D. As H/R I would like to think that they wouldn't have much internal stress?

--------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Mtndew · Feb 6, 2018

Dupa3872 said:
Whats more stable 1020 or A36 ?

A36 HRS is pretty stable and cuts like butter.
Although your part shape is putting that to the test, I would still take a cut, unclamp, reclamp and finish the part. No sense in taking that chance unless your tolerances are larger than +/- .010"

Bobw · Feb 6, 2018

Mtndew said:
A36 HRS is pretty stable and cuts like butter.

I'd rather deal with 1020, at least then you *KNOW* what it is..

90% of the time A36 (aka "garbage" steel) machines sort of like a 1018, and
then every once in a while you get some that will just not cooperate, ripping
and tearing and sticking to every goddamn thing... I had some a while back that
I just simply could not get a good hole in... I had a HUGE tolerance and it would
just rip and tear and smear.. Went to a reamer.. Same thing.. ended up coming in with
an endmill and interpolating it to get something that didn't look like I
drilled it with a chain saw..

DanielG · Feb 6, 2018

I would plan for it to move when you cut the slot out. At a minimum, I would do as Mtndew suggested and do a roughing and finishing setup. I know when the place I used to work at removed lots of material, they would sometimes send it out for stress relief after roughing.

The other option that may be cheaper, especially if there are lots of them would be to do burnouts and stress relieve them. It would avoid lots of hogging out material. They should be able to nest them fairly well.

litlerob1 · Feb 6, 2018

Bobw said:
I'd rather deal with 1020, at least then you *KNOW* what it is..

90% of the time A36 (aka "garbage" steel) machines sort of like a 1018, and
then every once in a while you get some that will just not cooperate, ripping
and tearing and sticking to every goddamn thing... I had some a while back that
I just simply could not get a good hole in... I had a HUGE tolerance and it would
just rip and tear and smear.. Went to a reamer.. Same thing.. ended up coming in with
an endmill and interpolating it to get something that didn't look like I
drilled it with a chain saw..

I believe the Alloy is Meltedvolkswagensoupcanium.

john-san · Feb 7, 2018

Dupa3872 said:
I don't do a lot in 1020 or A36 I have a new customer asking me to make some parts out of either. It's 10-3/8 round and 1 inch thick. Dished out like a frying pan with strait walls.

It has with a 3/16 thick wall and 1/4 thick bottom. It also has a horse shoe type cut out...... lots of material coming out, I'M worried about it springing open when I remove the wall. Should I worry about this material warping and moving on me it has some close tolerances ? Should I rough them and anneal ?

Whats more stable 1020 or A36 ?

View attachment 219738

Thanks

Make Chips Boys !

Ron

It looks like a giant "c" clip thingy-ma-jig, I imagine once you cut that center opening, it will spring like a cat on a can of sardines.
You be cutting this on one off them C&C mochines, that will be hell-a-fun?!!

As previously mentioned: Rough. Unclamp, allow stress and spring to take place. Re-clamp and finish.
1018 an A36 machine like butter and wont beat up your tools.

Piece of gravy

Mtndew · Feb 7, 2018

Bobw said:
I'd rather deal with 1020, at least then you *KNOW* what it is..

90% of the time A36 (aka "garbage" steel) machines sort of like a 1018, and
then every once in a while you get some that will just not cooperate, ripping
and tearing and sticking to every goddamn thing... I had some a while back that
I just simply could not get a good hole in... I had a HUGE tolerance and it would
just rip and tear and smear.. Went to a reamer.. Same thing.. ended up coming in with
an endmill and interpolating it to get something that didn't look like I
drilled it with a chain saw..

Weird, I've never had that issue. But good to know so i can keep an eye out for that.

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