measuring groove diameters
I have a part that has two ring grooves,and I have to measure them on the machine before cut off the part.
depth of the grooves about 80 mm and measurement range should be in 10 to 30.
my all tolerance is 0.05 mm.(plus and minus 0.0025 mm)
is there any equipment to use here, any advise?
Could you rewrite that again please?
Originally Posted by bilalyaka
Depth 80mm but what is "range 10 to 30"?
What are the widths of the grooves?
I don't get "tolerance 0.05mm +/- 0.0025". Do you mean +/- 0.025mm?
I'm certain I have something that can measure what you want but need more information.
Blade mic for flat bottom grooves, and in a pinch for round bottom grooves, measure over pins and subtract the diameter of both pins for the difference between your groove and measurement.
To those offering advice
Do you know what the OP is looking for and it's just me that doesn't know?
Try reading my post #2 and clue me in
I'm pretty sure he knows there are blade micrometers and other instruments for measuring grooves and recesses so it must be a special problem.
How does anyone get to be a machinist and not know how to measure a groove? I'm sure the problem isn't as simple as you think. Even the tolerance seems small for a groove diameter but of course I don't know the diameter to be measured.
To give an answer I need to know more.
I'm going to say he wants to gauge groove diameters from 10-30mm in bores having depths around 80mm with +/- 0.025mm tolerance.
If this is an internal groove, then one can use an indical and a gauge block set-up to act as an ID type of calibration gauge. This is my tool of choice for ID grooves, round or flat bottom.
Amazon.com: Indi-Cal Internal Groove Gage: Industrial & Scientific
In fairness to gordon, the initial description is a bit sparse.
Looks like the OP has gone cold turkey
Ohhh, don't use that. I have one for emergencies and such, but damn it's a pain in the ass. It's very hard to make sure you've found the apex of the groove as well as have it square because it's so flimsy - the indicator bounces around at the slightest breath.
Originally Posted by spope14
Yeah, they are a pain, the indicals, I also have the bore gauge listed in the "customers also viewed". This said, I got used to using indicals a few years back doing work for a local shop and found quite a niche. I also like the indicator choice for accuracy. My method of keeping them sound and from gettign bounced is to use a spray bomb cap with a notch in it (made special with a precision X-acto knife) as the rest on the bench. They DO take a lot of p[ractice and patience. For an in experienced person, the dial gauge works quite well.
There's a smidgeon of sarcasm in my post when I write:
I'm amazed at how much friendly advice is being given without even knowing what the OP is wanting to be measured and why it's even a problem to him.
It was the OP's first post and perhaps his last yet look at the number of responses generated. Some even contradicting each other
yes it is true that it was my first post here but I think that it does not require answers as Clarke's.
Of course I know about mics. but I have a internal groove to measure before cutting off the part to manage offsets.
the width of grooves about 4mm, depth of measurement tip is about 3.7mm, I think there is a suitable one at;
Mueller Gages Company - 1900 Series
the diameter of bore is about 12.5 mm , tolerance of the groove diameter is +/- 0.025mm so the equipment accuracy should suitable this tolerance.
I have one, and it has both .0005 resolution and a .0001 resolution indicator. I rarely use it, but when I need it I have it.
Ebay will have one periodically.
Last edited by aerodark; 01-14-2012 at 12:37 PM.
IF...you know your machine and technique is sound and accurate, one thing I have done in the past working for companies that either couldn't afford or just wouldnt buy nice I.D. measurement tools is cut something I had access to and could measure accurately to offset the tool. You can use this technique on diameters and lengths. You would have to have material in the area your cutting to try to duplicate your cutting conditions as much as possible. It is also a very effective way to dial in long taper moves that you may not want to make a full pass on to adjust. Condition of machinery is a factor when doing this so you would need to be confident in the machine capabilities.
Maybe no added value but you "made my day" LOL
Originally Posted by stevo1