What's new
What's new

Mori Seiki SL-2B with Yasnac 2000G, Cycle Start not working -- any ideas?

Finegrain

Diamond
Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Location
Seattle, Washington
Hi Guys,

I just moved a 1980 Mori Seiki SL-2B with Yasnac 2000G control to my shop. All worked fine before the move. Now, all the mechanicals work fine and code can be loaded into the buffer, but Cycle Start just plain doesn't do anything.

Things I've tried:

Simple MDI command, T0101, loads OK, but Cycle Start doesn't execute it.
Simple G-code, uploaded with multiple DNC's, code is seen in the buffer on the control, I can step through it, but Cycle Start won't run it.
Jog, 1H and 10H pulse, Rapid, Zero Return, all these work fine.
Turret indexes fine, spindle turns fine both directions. Coolant and hydraulics motors work fine, 500 PSI hydraulics.
No NC alarms are shown at the control.
No obvious loose things in the cabinets.
Cycle Start switch seems mechanically fine according to my Fluke 87.

Any advise, BTDT's, words of wisdom? Mori tech is so far stumped.

I'm sad :nopity:. This is my first step into CNC, and so far all I have is a 7000# manual lathe with 8" of X and Z :willy_nilly:.

Thanks, and regards.

Mike
 
All worked fine before the move. Now, all the mechanicals work fine and code can be loaded into the buffer, but Cycle Start just plain doesn't do anything.

Cycle Start switch seems mechanically fine according to my Fluke 87.

As someone who had a 12k lb manual Mori,I feel your pain. You'll likely have to become your own electronics expert- I'm on my way (as it pertains to this machine, at least).

Even though the switch itself makes contact, the circuit to the control cabinet may not be closing. Check the trace on the board in the operator control panel to the ribbon connector. Then ohm the complete circuit from the connector to the control cabinet at the back of the machine. You'll need some long jumper wires to do this. This is the trial & error part. What I've learned from my experience is that there's rarely a common failure mode for these old machines. It won't throw a code because the cycle start circuit is not a circuit checked in the boot self-diagnostics.

"No obvious loose things in the cabinets."

Good, because it's never obvious. ;) Physically push on every connection and relay you can find, ohm every fuse. Be careful of the capacitor banks and transformers when poking around (with power disconnected of course).
 
I agree. I have seen more "lose" connections occur during moves than I can count. With power off unplug everything one by one and plug back in. Ribbons, relays, all of it.
 
Does it have a memory protect key? Make sure the key is in run mode, not edit. On the older Fanucs if the key is in edit it will behave exactly as you describe. I don't know if Yasnac is the same or not.
 
Cycle start problem

Hi Guys,

I just moved a 1980 Mori Seiki SL-2B with Yasnac 2000G control to my shop. All worked fine before the move. Now, all the mechanicals work fine and code can be loaded into the buffer, but Cycle Start just plain doesn't do anything.

One thing to check: If the way oil level is low, it won't run a program. There is an indicator LED, ER3 that should light to indicate this condition. If it's out, maybe it is lit but has slipped out of it's holder. Open up the door to the operator's panel and check. A long shot, but you never know.

-Jim
 
X2 - my first thought, although I don't know if that would have been in the ladder in 1980 or not, but Shirley the first thing to check.


-----------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Yes, 'twas the first thing I checked too :-). Chuck is closed.

Regards.

Mike
 
We're the hydraulic lines for the clamp/unclamp un hooked? If so if they are backwards clamped may actually be seen as unclamp in the control if it has the ability to clamp ID and OD.
 
Hi guys,

Thanks for the tips so far.

Miller6386, hydraulics weren't disconnected AFAIK, and the drawtube location matches the Chuck Clamp light on/off.
JimO, I topped off the way oil. I don't have an ER3 LED on my control though. I will see if I can trace back the way oil sensor wiring and make sure that is OK.
Garwood, there is no memory protect key on this machine AFAIK.
RC Mech, I traced the Cycle Start back to the ribbon connectors on the IO board and the wire has continuity. What happens after it reaches the IO board is a mystery!

Anybody know where in the cabinets the way oil level sensor wiring connects?

Thanks, and regards.

Mike
 
Try the feed overide, I have a lathe that out of the blue will not move when cycle start is pressed,
drove me crazy, I happened to crank the feedrate past 100 % and it took off, It did the same thing a few weeks
ago, turned the knob and away it went.
 
Try the feed overide, I have a lathe that out of the blue will not move when cycle start is pressed,
drove me crazy, I happened to crank the feedrate past 100 % and it took off, It did the same thing a few weeks
ago, turned the knob and away it went.

Thanks for the idea, but that had no effect.

Regards.

Mike
 
Hi Guys,

I just moved a 1980 Mori Seiki SL-2B with Yasnac 2000G control to my shop. All worked fine before the move. Now, all the mechanicals work fine and code can be loaded into the buffer, but Cycle Start just plain doesn't do anything.

Things I've tried:

Simple MDI command, T0101, loads OK, but Cycle Start doesn't execute it.
Simple G-code, uploaded with multiple DNC's, code is seen in the buffer on the control, I can step through it, but Cycle Start won't run it.
Jog, 1H and 10H pulse, Rapid, Zero Return, all these work fine.
Turret indexes fine, spindle turns fine both directions. Coolant and hydraulics motors work fine, 500 PSI hydraulics.
No NC alarms are shown at the control.
No obvious loose things in the cabinets.
Cycle Start switch seems mechanically fine according to my Fluke 87.

Any advise, BTDT's, words of wisdom? Mori tech is so far stumped.

I'm sad :nopity:. This is my first step into CNC, and so far all I have is a 7000# manual lathe with 8" of X and Z :willy_nilly:.

Thanks, and regards.

Mike
When you said the switch seems ok with meter does it have power going in? Or did you just check continuity through the switch when pressed?
 
You know I guess I've never really troubleshoot a cycle start button. Usually it's in an e stop circuit. I'd have to see prints too see if that should be NC or NO.

The more I think about it NC makes sense as an e stop in that probably kills the 24v power.

The other thought is back to way oil sensor. It should be in the tank verify it's not stuck.

Do you have prints for this? That will really help in the trouble shooting.
 
You know I guess I've never really troubleshoot a cycle start button. Usually it's in an e stop circuit. I'd have to see prints too see if that should be NC or NO.

The more I think about it NC makes sense as an e stop in that probably kills the 24v power.

The other thought is back to way oil sensor. It should be in the tank verify it's not stuck.

Do you have prints for this? That will really help in the trouble shooting.

Actually there doesn't seem to be a way oil sensor. There's only 4 wires coming to the oiler, 3 for 3-phase and a ground. Unless there's a pressure switch up in the way oil plumbing in the turret, I don't think there's any way oil sensing.

Prints? No, that would be great though.

Regards.

Mike
 








 
Back
Top