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Need help getting a 1996 Torq Cut 22 up and running.

inwoodcutter

Cast Iron
Joined
Mar 10, 2005
Location
Tell City, Indiana
Recently acquired this mill. Before the mill was moved out the previous owner went to boot it up and nothing came up. So not sure what the problem is there. Before I get to that I want to know about hooking it into power. Our supply is three phase with a 208V center leg. Does this leg need to be on a particular tap on the disconnect/ isolator?

I started a similar thread in the Bridgeport subforum and was directed here.
 

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Don't know as I wasn't there the last time. I haven't hooked it up to power yet as I want to make certain I don't have to worry about the 208V leg being on something it shouldn't. I've fried stuff in the past making that mistake.
 
Do you have the manuals for it? They are pretty detailed .

I have the same machine and have it running on 220 single phase so not much help on your questions I'm afraid..

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On the incoming power, if your terminals in the machine are labeled L1, L2 and L3, I am fairly certain your center tapped 220 volt wires will go to L1 and L2 with the 208 leg to L3. The reason is your control circuits will be on the L1 and L2 terminals, the voltage for the controls and computer is fairly critical. They are this way on all my machines manual or CNC. Anyone with electrical experience feel free to correct me on this.
In the Hardinge section you mentioned that the Monitor did not come one when powered up before you bought it? If so that could be the power supply for the motherboard or the mother board itself. Maybe a fuse for one or both.
 
Are you saying you have a leg that is 208 volts to ground like the manufactured leg on a rotary phase converter?
What Fred says is correct on every machine I have seen the control circuit runs on line 1 and or 2 so they are the most sensitive to voltages that are out of spec. For that reason if you have a high leg put it on line 3, then if you are out of phase (motor rotating backward) swap lines 1 and 2. Just curious is that your camera or did the CRT and keyboard get baked in the oven? They look like they are warped.
 
Recently acquired this mill. Before the mill was moved out the previous owner went to boot it up and nothing came up. So not sure what the problem is there. Before I get to that I want to know about hooking it into power. Our supply is three phase with a 208V center leg. Does this leg need to be on a particular tap on the disconnect/ isolator?

I started a similar thread in the Bridgeport subforum and was directed here.

Darn looks like that mach. could use a bit of TLC, however if the 22 powers up it could be as simple as the monitor screen switch may be in the off position. If not and it will power up you may just need a new monitor, If you can't get a boot up may be time to call a tech and have them do some trouble shooting.
 
If you can't get a boot up may be time to call a tech and have them do some trouble shooting.

The smart thing would be to exhaust his resources here. First even if that machine was up and running it would not be worth much, so it would be wise to throw as little money as possible at it. You list California as location, if that would be around a population center in So Cal you probably could get an independent tech for a two hour minimum and no drive time. Where the OP is at that likely isn't the case, for an example where I am at 45 miles from the capitol of Virginia a service call before the clock runs is $1200 and that gets you the village idiot of service techs. On many a machine a service tech is not magic, on a dead machine they are going to go through the same initial steps anyone here can be walked through who owns a multi-meter, a can of contact cleaner and compressed air.

90% of the time a dead or alarmed out machine is a simple fix, blown fuse, tripped breaker, dirty or loose connection, dirty proximity switch, circuit board needing reseated, etc,etc. Do need to pay someone a service call fee and north of $100 an hour to fix those problems.
 
Good news. We hooked it up to power. After the prompts here and carefully reviewing the wiring diagrams we put the 208V leg on L3. Now we get the monitor to the point pictured which the previous owner says is farther than he got the last time.

Now what should it be doing and how long should it take?
 

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Mine has a dead motherboard battery that I have yet to replace. Still starts and run normaly after telling it to load default bios settings.

What I would look at first is loose or dirty connections.

Second I would look at the capacitors on the motherboards. Mine has several that are suspect with swollen tops... I have replacements ready just no time to pull the board and replace them..


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We had the local computer guru come by and take a look at it. After some troubleshooting he's thinking the motherboard is bad. He tried pulling hard drives and boards to force it to show a different error.
 
Does anyone know of a reputable source for a motherboard for one of these? We (and by we I mean my eldest brother who has a bachelors in ECE) sent the board to Radwell for repair and after a couple rounds they said it's irreparable. We bought a board from Memory4less and it's not working out. Getting frustrated and willing to get a little more serious about getting this going.
 
All you need is a plain old PC mobo. Emphasis on plain and OLD. You need a mobo no later than 486DX processor, lest you deal with the dreaded "Divide By Zero" error. Alternatively, you can purchase the updated software from EMI that lets you run a Pentium. Worth it, in my humble opinion and having run one for a few decades. I miss that machine.
 
I finally took time to pull the motherboard on mine and replaced 4 bad caps... Took about an hour and after running the machine, not cutting , for about 4 hours everything is looking good.

The board on mine is plugged into a backplane and has the hard drive card mounted on it. It was loosing communications about every 3 minutes before the cap replacement and also was causing interference on the vga flat screen monitor used to replace the old monitor. The machine has video output on the motherboard, not a seperate video card.. After the repair the the loss of communication and the video interference were cleared up...

Mixed up a batch of coolant and the flood coolant pump is responding to the controls. Not a ton of pressure, I might have to increase that somehow.

Miles, the former owner, is coming by tomorrow and give me some tips and pointers.. MIght be making chips again soon :)
 
Does anyone know of a reputable source for a motherboard for one of these? We (and by we I mean my eldest brother who has a bachelors in ECE) sent the board to Radwell for repair and after a couple rounds they said it's irreparable. We bought a board from Memory4less and it's not working out. Getting frustrated and willing to get a little more serious about getting this going.

I have found Radwell to be worse than incompetent, I would not use them if they were free.
 








 
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