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New to the robodrill

tspang

Plastic
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Does anyone have any help or suggestions on a complete newbie to CNC operations? I have a few years experience running a mill. Lots of conversational programming. My shop just bought a robodrill and I've been selected to head it up. We're a job shop so lots of onesie twosies. Any suggestions on how to get this bad boy up and running to a level we are really making money?
 
Does anyone have any help or suggestions on a complete newbie to CNC operations? I have a few years experience running a mill. Lots of conversational programming. My shop just bought a robodrill and I've been selected to head it up. We're a job shop so lots of onesie twosies. Any suggestions on how to get this bad boy up and running to a level we are really making money?

Automate as much as possible. I have done the following on my Brother that really helps:

1) Programs that make loading tools easier (I'm assuming you have an automatic tool setter, if not, get one immediately). Write these programs so that they return the machine to the position that it was in when you called the program. This is uber helpful so you waste less time jogging the machine.
2) Write all your probing programs (I highly recommend a spindle probe for onsies twosies) so that they copy some reference coordinate system in the machine and then offset from that so that you have a good starting point. This way you don't have to job the probe, ever, and it saves so much time.
3) Get lots of tool holders.
4) Standardize your setups. Pick a way that you program, a way that you set tools, work offsets, work holding, and standardize that process. Even if the process could be more efficient, only make tiny changes to your proven process at a time. Make sure that your changes will work for a wide variety of parts. I find that by standardizing the way I do things I'm far less likely to make a mistake. This might be less efficient in the short term, but the price of mistakes is very high for onsies twosies.
5) Vises are very versatile and would be good if you're holding non-round parts. If you have a lot of small round parts, get yourself a collet closer. Larger round parts? 3-jaw chuck.

Cheers,
Matt
 
Use a reverse vise if you can, easier to load. We had a 21, with the 16mb control, 2004.
We have the Renishaw probe, and it works quite well.
I like to use offline programming, that way I'm never standing at the machine programming, while it could be running.
Fanuc sell software that uses the ethernet port in the back cabinet, hope your machine has one. Makes transferring programs easy and quick. Cost is about $50 IIRC.
If you need a sample program, let me know. Pretty normal post, but this was my first Fanuc adventure. Little stuff you'll have to get used to for rigid tapping, but they work well.
 
Get a decent CAM program. The Robodrill will do some amazing stuff, but without CAM it's a bicycle with no saddle, pedals or wheels ;)
 
Get a decent CAM program. The Robodrill will do some amazing stuff, but without CAM it's a bicycle with no saddle, pedals or wheels ;)

Didn't even occur to me when he said that he knows a lot of conversational programming that he might not be using CAM. For sure this would be #1 on my list, especially for onsies twosies, depending on complexity. I don't have any experience with conversational but some people swear by it for simple parts.

Matt
 
Get a decent CAM program. The Robodrill will do some amazing stuff, but without CAM it's a bicycle with no saddle, pedals or wheels ;)


Before you even do that learn just a bit more than the basics of G-code if you aren't already fluent in it.

It perplexes me that people lead straight to CAM without knowing what it's spitting out at you and to your machine. Especially for one and two off's. I would have given my career up years ago if I didn't know how to quickly edit and/or fully program simple things at the control. In production I can understand why guys would go for CAM straight away but even then I am sure that with even the best CAM package a few tweaks here and there MANUALLY would benefit cycle times.

Since you have knowledge on manual mills you already know roughly what type of work holding you will need to get your type of work done. I suppose one or two decent Vises, a big selection of clamps of all sizes and studs for quick change overs will make your life easier and more profitable because setup times will be reduced. Also get a few generic collet holders of your choice so it's easy to change between cutters.

Next try to make dialing in the vises and jobs as easy as possible so don't skimp on dial indicators that are easy to use and a easy tool pre setter or if you are lucky enough an on board setter at the machine.
 
CAM yes. Also training to use the CAM is a must. Trying to learn CAM by yourself is very, very time consuming. Start with introduction class yes, but get mid level and advanced training also.

The cost of the training will be recovered within the first six months, if not sooner.
 
Im very new to GCode, but know the basics, I'm currently taking a class for it. We bought EZ CAM. It is very foreign to me,and I have no prior experience with any cam package. Any recommendations on how to get started on that as well.

Agreed, knowing G-code is almost a must. I'd also invest in a 3D taster (Haimer etc.) and at least some form of zero point system if you can afford it. And a gazillion tool holders - although you'll still be one short ;)

Here's a link to our Robodrill setup: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/quick-change-work-holding-318539/index2.html, check post #21.

Is that setup something you designed and built yourself or is it something that is bought? Very interested in more information on that.
 
tspang,

The zero point baseplates are from Lang (Workholding, zero-point clamping, grip-fix technology - Lang Technovation co.). There are several suppliers with similar products, but this suited me best. The subplate and risers were made at our shop. Our aim was maximum flexibility and speed. With this setup you can not only use any Lang vise, you can also mount parts directly if they have the matching pins on the bottom. We also filled the plate with tapped holes for added flexibility. The holes have Helicoil inserts for better strength. We also have a subplate that can be mounted on top of the zero point holders and freely machined/tapped etc. Nice for holding large flat objects.

Baseline; just drop in any of our vises, no measuring or messing about. The setup was not exactly cheap, but it's a real time-saver and it allows easy access to the entire work area.

Harri
 








 
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