HAAS is leaking Tranny Fluid or 3 bad words to hear: Tranny, Assembly, Factory.

TeflonDave · Oct 16, 2013

I have a HAAS, Model TL-3W
With the HAAS control
Year- 2005
3.5 bore thru
This CNC is a Tool Room series lathe. Horizontal bed with CNC capabilities along with MDI and manual operation options.
It has a automatic transmission that is between the spindle pulley and motor. The spindle seal is leaking oil behind the pulley at about 1 drop / 5 sec.
Tech says that the whole Tranny assembly must be replaced with a factory built (or rebuilt) unit. Cost : WTFM

What I have heard and learned is;

1.The pulley is shrink fitted to the shaft (50mm dia).

2. By the book says that I will need about 700 degrees to loosen up. I have concerns about heat transfer into the tranny assy causing damage to other components.

3.The seal is right inside the aluminum housing that is right behind the pulley that is shrink fitted to the shaft.

4. The pulley is drilled and tapped to accommodate pull tooling the shaft has a center hole.

Anybody been there - done that before? Tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks

ewlsey · Oct 16, 2013

Most times a shrink fit pulley is only heated for install. You can't heat it to remove it. If you think about it, the pulley is probably iron or steel. The shaft is likely steel. If you heat the pulley, you also heat the shaft. The coefficient of expansion is the same, so you gain nothing.

Most likely the pulley is just pulled off with a puller of some sort.

ronf · Oct 16, 2013

I'd put the puller on and get all the pressure on it you can, then use a big rose bud to heat the pulley as fast as you can, while putting force on the puller. If you can heat the pulley fast enough the shaft will stay cool.

Bobw · Oct 16, 2013

For a SEAL?????

Just on principal alone I would fix it. No way in hell I would ever buy a new anything if all it needs is a simple seal, screw them.

I can't see what you are working with, but I'd make a puller on the drill press with some scrap and start cranking on it.

Worst case scenario, cut the pulley off and make/buy/modify a new one, it can't be more expensive than sending it back to the
"factory"...

Absolute worst case.. eliminate the gear box and turn it into a single speed.. even if only temporary, or long enough to make the
parts you need.

Joe788 · Oct 16, 2013

Bobw said:
For a SEAL?????

Just on principal alone I would fix it. No way in hell I would ever buy a new anything if all it needs is a simple seal, screw them.

You guys are all way more motivated than me. I'd just put a drip pan under it and be sure to check the oil every few days. LOL

Bobw · Oct 16, 2013

Joe788 said:
You guys are all way more motivated than me. I'd just put a drip pan under it and be sure to check the oil every few days. LOL

I just recommended how I would do it, I didn't say I would do it NOW. I'm perfectly fine with leaks and funny noises, as long as I know what they are and the consequences.

TeflonDave · Oct 16, 2013

There's a pic, complete with oil pool. Sensor at the top of the pic.

I was thinking of the heat and time also, but setting up with pressure first is a great idea that I had forgotten about.

The principle of it all and the oil pan were also considered.

RaptorX · Oct 16, 2013

Are you sure you can get a seal? Car manufacturers have been playing this game the last few years. Making seals and bearings oddball sizes you just can't get. Or when you do they are just stupid expensive. Yea,you could probably find one that fits the shaft,then cut the housing to fit the outer diameter. But I would get the right seal in my hands then worry about the pulley..
It looks like the pulley has threads. Where you could get a T-bar on it. Tighten the T bar until you start worrying then get out the torch and warm it up. It's hard to tell by the picture. But older setups like that had 2 bolts on the back side of the pulley for tension to hold in place. I would feel back there for bolt heads or get a pocket mirror and a flashlight and try to get a good look at the back side before doing anything. Just a thought.
Fred

jdavi581 · Oct 16, 2013

I have pulled lots of ductile hubs, off of 4140 shafts. Hubs that are up to 125 lbs. There are two steps. One, quick heat. I used 2 #5 harris torchs (oxy propane) for the 125 lb hubs. The second thing is pressure. We used a 30 ton hydraulic puller hooked to an enerpack electric pump. Gotta move it fast. For your setup you will not need as much, but I would make sure everything is coated with antiseize or another high temp lube, any surface you can. Then, get the puller installed and ready to go. Two people is best. Light up the torch (oxy something, a weedburner does not work well) and get it hot (just the pully), all the while increasing the tension on the puller. All at once, it will pop. Pull off the torch and crank the puller like hell. If you are using a screw type puller, put an impact on it. If it sticks halfway off, let it cool to ambient, and do it all over. A galled shaft will happen if you have enough power and it is a shrink fit. If you follow these steps, it will come off very nicely.
Joe

Speedie · Oct 17, 2013

Your probably going to want to install a new pulley.

jdavi581 · Oct 17, 2013

Never thought of that, just cut it off and buy the seal and pully. No heat in the shaft.
Joe

TeflonDave · Oct 31, 2013

Thanks all, We went with a 25 ton enerpac with a 5" stroke we used threaded rod, threaded right to the pulley and pushed off the end of the ram housing using a bolt hole plate of 3/4" thick low carb steel. Came off at 10 tons with a "rosebud" applied. I now know what rosebud means in shop jargon.
The pulley went on real easy at 450-500 degrees F. (We have an oven on premises).

TeflonDave · Nov 1, 2013

TeflonDave said:
Thanks all, We went with a 25 ton enerpac with a 5" stroke we used threaded rod, threaded right to the pulley and pushed off the end of the ram housing using a bolt hole plate of 3/4" thick low carb steel. Came off at 10 tons with a "rosebud" applied. I now know what rosebud means in shop jargon.
The pulley went on real easy at 450-500 degrees F. (We have an oven on premises).

Oh yeah in between all that we replaced the $3.57 V ring (seal).

We videoed our first set up using a 5 ton press w/ hand pump (basically cause it was easier and real handy) but later tore down and used a 25 ton press w/ motor pump but the tooling was the same. Don't forget the rosebud :reading:

upnorth5axis · Nov 1, 2013

hey your not suppose to fix them yourself. How is HAAS going to make any money.

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HAAS is leaking Tranny Fluid or 3 bad words to hear: Tranny, Assembly, Factory.

TeflonDave

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ewlsey

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ronf

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Bobw

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Joe788

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Bobw

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TeflonDave

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RaptorX

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jdavi581

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Speedie

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jdavi581

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TeflonDave

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TeflonDave

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upnorth5axis

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