What's new
What's new

Okuma OSP5020L bad 24vdc power supply - repair or alternative to Okuma for replace

Jay Fleming

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 7, 2014
Location
Noble, OK
I found the 24vdc power supply to be bad on my lathe that is due to be shipped to another forum member tomorrow morning. We've worked it out about not needing it fixed today but is it possible to repair them, assuming you know exactly what's wrong, or is there an alternative to Okuma to purchase a new replacement? Of course, ebay has used, so that may be the only option.

On a side note, I found a mouse nest in the operator panel of the lathe while diagnosing the power supply. I'm assuming some of the nest, along with piss, may have shorted the power supply out, not so much to blow the internal fuse but maybe damage another component within the power supply. Is there a common weak link in these power supplies to key in on?
 
If it is a generic power supply I will replace with a new equivalent. If it has lots of functions and tattle tail signals, etc you're pretty stuck with fixing or buying another used one.

Usually electrolytic capacitors end the life of power supplies.
 
If it is a generic power supply I will replace with a new equivalent. If it has lots of functions and tattle tail signals, etc you're pretty stuck with fixing or buying another used one.

Usually electrolytic capacitors end the life of power supplies.

It seems to be generic in that it doesn't specify a brand on the case. It has an alarm contact, not sure why, if the power supply is dead, the control won't turn on. I guess one could replace it with a generic.

Possible to replace just the caps or not worth it?
 
Lot's of things can go wrong. Rectifiers go out fairly often. Opto isolators for the voltage feedback sometimes fail.

If it's just 24V for the I/O, you can probably just use a generic. If it makes multiple voltages and powers the actual control, you will likely need to repair yours or buy a new one. The control needs very clean power to run correctly.
 
Im the "other forum member" and doing homework on it on my end as well. Thanks again for the help and being upfront and honest Jay!

I attached a pic of the one on my LNC8 - which has the same numbers as the one Jay is dealing with. In case that helps tip anyone off to ideas.

I have an email into my Hartwig parts gal for curiosity sake on new price, and an email also to my Hartwig tech, but just sent them so I dont expect a response til tomorrow.

It all seems "generic" until you get to the AL- and AL+ wires. I have the wiring diagram for both machines, but cant really make heads or tails of it (I always have struggled understanding the diagrams and how to follow them). Id like to think its either an alarm circuit or a "voltage OK" reporting circuit based on other PS's Ive been looking at recently... but I could see it being something proprietary and complicated too... aka expensive.

trans.jpg

These critters seem sort of common... have seen them pulled from as new as 2003 machines, and maybe newer, and as old as early 90s.

Wade
 
Im the "other forum member" and doing homework on it on my end as well. Thanks again for the help and being upfront and honest Jay!

I attached a pic of the one on my LNC8 - which has the same numbers as the one Jay is dealing with. In case that helps tip anyone off to ideas.

I have an email into my Hartwig parts gal for curiosity sake on new price, and an email also to my Hartwig tech, but just sent them so I dont expect a response til tomorrow.

It all seems "generic" until you get to the AL- and AL+ wires. I have the wiring diagram for both machines, but cant really make heads or tails of it (I always have struggled understanding the diagrams and how to follow them). Id like to think its either an alarm circuit or a "voltage OK" reporting circuit based on other PS's Ive been looking at recently... but I could see it being something proprietary and complicated too... aka expensive.

View attachment 221074

These critters seem sort of common... have seen them pulled from as new as 2003 machines, and maybe newer, and as old as early 90s.

Wade

One thing I learned when bypassing the 24v power supply is that it showed a CB tripped alarm but cleared when I connected the two wires. So there is a circuit breaker, CB9 somewhere inline with terminal 54N that when tripped, goes through the 24v power supply for confirmation there is 24v power, I assume before going to a PLC input. I don't know what that CB9 is, didn't really look for it. It is different from the CB9 on the door right next to the power supply.
 
Lot's of things can go wrong. Rectifiers go out fairly often. Opto isolators for the voltage feedback sometimes fail.

If it's just 24V for the I/O, you can probably just use a generic. If it makes multiple voltages and powers the actual control, you will likely need to repair yours or buy a new one. The control needs very clean power to run correctly.

I don't doubt the mouse signs I found may be some indication of what helped the power supply go bad but can they fail without notice otherwise? If they're overloaded?
 
Attached a link to the wiring diagram that I think is for it... maybe it will help? The PDF was too big to attach here, and dont have the ability to make it any smaller.

http://www.webfootcustomcalls.com/temp/C1.pdf

That's the wrong power supply. That one is mounted to the back of the operator panel. The correct wiring diagram is a few pages back and the power supply is only a small square block about 2/3 down the page. Not in front of me right now, otherwise I could give better info.
 
Electronics almost always fail with no notice. Luckily, they usually just open up the circuit and basically turn themselves off.

Some components like diodes tend to fail closed and can lock the circuit on. That can lead to further destruction.

Looks pretty simple to me.
 
That's the wrong power supply. That one is mounted to the back of the operator panel. The correct wiring diagram is a few pages back and the power supply is only a small square block about 2/3 down the page. Not in front of me right now, otherwise I could give better info.

Drat, youre exactly right!
Attached the link to the proper page.
http://www.webfootcustomcalls.com/temp/A2.pdf


So Im guessing the AL lines are in fact just an alarm circuit, and open when voltage is not correct. Which would lead me to think that a PS like the SOLA SDN10-24-100C might be a workable solution. Heck, there is a chance I might even have one laying around... Ill have to check the volts and amps on it.
 








 
Back
Top