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Proper Feeds and Speeds - Steel Turning with Carbide on Taig CNC Mill

Mike28303

Plastic
Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Location
Arkansas, USA
Hello Machinists,

I just purchased a Taig about five months ago, and am entirely self taught (using what I could find on the internet). I am cutting small molds out of 6061 aluminum, and have made my own alignment pins out of 1/4" mild steel rod by putting it in the mill collet and fastening a tool post with carbide insert lathe tools to the mill bed so it works like a lathe. Here is a video I found that demonstrates what I'm doing:

Taig Mill Turning with lathe conversion - YouTube

I also chamfer the pins after turning them to dimension (using a 45 degree carbide insert tool).

I understand that HSS would be ideal, but Carbide is more convenient as my learning curve is already vertical. Of course, if this is the only way to achieve excellent results, I will do it.

My current settings are definitely not correct, although I made them work for my last pins. My fear is that I have dulled the carbide because of my error.

Current settings:

RPM: 10,600
IPM: 12
DOC: .005 to get it close to size, .002" for the finish.

Here are the Mill specs so you can understand the limitations:

Taig Mill w/Ballscrews
RPM: 1050 to 10,600 (There are five grooves on the spindle, so I can do the following: 1050, 1650. 2600, 4200, 6700, or 10,600)
IPM up 100
1/4 HP Spindle Motor

I'm using flood coolant as well.

Could someone help me select the best settings?
 
My Brother.

I regret to inform you. We don't actually talk about Taig's here. Your in a professional manufacturing Forum. Most blokes with mill's here, start at $56k - $80K

Next general meeting. I'll raise it as an issue, Sticky message is only atop the General section. Not here in CNC
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/machinery-discussion-guidelines-137724/

Mike. You would be better off on a Home shop.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forums/3-General

Surely there's a Forum for Taig's?

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I have to bless you with the sign of the cross. And I'm not all that religious. I could send you off to Nelsen's study in the Mechanical Art's. I wish you well in that pursuit.

The Hobby-Machinist - The FRIENDLY Machinist Forum

The Home Machinist! - Index page Chaski do toot -toot if your miniature rail inclined.

Either way, your not doing Taig's here. Its just the way it is, don't get pissed about it. It's just the way it is.

Regards Phil.
 
Hello Machinists,

I just purchased a Taig about five months ago, and am entirely self taught (using what I could find on the internet). I am cutting small molds out of 6061 aluminum, and have made my own alignment pins out of 1/4" mild steel rod by putting it in the mill collet and fastening a tool post with carbide insert lathe tools to the mill bed so it works like a lathe. Here is a video I found that demonstrates what I'm doing:

Taig Mill Turning with lathe conversion - YouTube

I also chamfer the pins after turning them to dimension (using a 45 degree carbide insert tool).

I understand that HSS would be ideal, but Carbide is more convenient as my learning curve is already vertical. Of course, if this is the only way to achieve excellent results, I will do it.

My current settings are definitely not correct, although I made them work for my last pins. My fear is that I have dulled the carbide because of my error.

Current settings:

RPM: 10,600
IPM: 12
DOC: .005 to get it close to size, .002" for the finish.

Here are the Mill specs so you can understand the limitations:

Taig Mill w/Ballscrews
RPM: 1050 to 10,600 (There are five grooves on the spindle, so I can do the following: 1050, 1650. 2600, 4200, 6700, or 10,600)
IPM up 100
1/4 HP Spindle Motor

I'm using flood coolant as well.

Could someone help me select the best settings?
.
carbide if 300 sfpm is about 1200 rpm for 1" and if 1/4" thats 4800 rpm
most just math in their head.
steel if making blue chips you are in general going fast enough. vibration and chatter will destroy cutting tools of course at much lower speeds
.
extremely basic to run at much lower sfpm and rpm cause vibration of tool and part is destroying tool or cause sudden tool failure.
.
aluminum can run faster but often it sticks to cutting edge causing extreme problems. coolant can help, tool coating can help, often have seen aluminum stuck so
hard to tool using a screwdriver and hammer to get it off.
.
usually apprentice learns fairly quickly "recommended" max speeds are often not the best to use. they are from salesman selling you more tools.
 
Hi Phil,

I appreciate the information! I completely understand. I skimmed through a guidelines thread somewhere on this forum, but not the one you mentioned.

Thank you for the links, I will ask the question on these other forums. It definitely appears more suitable for my beginner level.

Have a great day!

- Mike
 
Hello DMF_TomB,

Thank you for all the advice! I'll give these settings a try and see how it turns out. That's good to know concerning the aluminum, as I'll be turning some next week.

- Mike
 
Mike,

Next time just don't mention the name/brand of the machine you have. The information offered will most likely be for industrial grade machines so take that into consideration.

Brent
 
Just a tip concerning those guide pins... Why not use off the shelf dowel pins? Press fit them with a drop of Loctite if desired. On the other half of the mold, drill jig bushings work great.
 








 
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