Recommendation for 11/32 drill 8" deep

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Dave Cross

Titanium

Joined

Oct 25, 2007

Location

South West Canada

• Jul 23, 2016

• #1

I need to run some waterlines in some P20 mold bases. I would prefer a tsc carbide drill, but a quick check on pricing shows they range from $600-900. That is a bit saltier than I was expecting. Does anyone have some more economical suggestions? Hoping my suppliers come back with something better early next week. I am not completely opposed to pecking with a traditional drill, but if I could get a good carbide tsc drill that is going to last a while for $300ish I'd be all over it.

 

M

Milland

Diamond

Joined

Jul 6, 2006

Location

Hillsboro, New Hampshire

• Jul 23, 2016

• #2

This might work for you if you have the headroom: 11/32 Inch Drill Bit, Carbide-Tipped, 115 8534463 - MSC. They also have it in a 6" flute: Gun Drill Bits DrillType: Single Flute Gun 8534455 - MSC, but that's not long enough unless you mod the base, which I doubt is worth it.

You'd need adequate pressure/volume to flush the chips, and a ~2D long pilot hole about a thou larger. Test on some scrap material first to get your parameters, but at these prices you can lose a few drills and not worry. Yes, an MSC product that's not ridiculously expensive!

 

D

dstryr

Diamond

Joined

Jan 22, 2010

Location

Nampa Idaho

• Jul 23, 2016

• #3

Your part is 16" long? I'm assuming so since your are a horizontal guy...

I put it in the walter program and it didnt find any choices.

 

D

Dave Cross

Titanium

Joined

Oct 25, 2007

Location

South West Canada

• Jul 23, 2016

• #4

While I think I have enough Z daylight and swing to run a 16" drill, the maximum tool length from the gage line for my machine is 14". I'll hand load if I have to, but I'd rather use the tool changer.

I've drilled 30xd before in teh machine, so I am familiar with the process.

I know I've drilled some 10-12" long holes the same diameter in aluminum before. I think I was using a Sandvik drill. Those parts were 20-24" long iirc.

Dstryr, Walter does make the size I need, I am unaware of their pricing, I'm not sure who caries them around here. http://www.fms-tools.fi/images/uploads/pdf/XD_Eng.pdf

Also, I sent you a PM about your Grob.

 

Orange Vise

Titanium

Joined

Feb 10, 2012

Location

California

• Jul 23, 2016

• #5

If it were me, I'd bite the bullet and get the drill from your preferred vendor with a rep who has a history of standing behind his recommendations. For me, that's Mitsubishi. If the drill breaks based on his recommended params, I get a free drill to try again.

But more importantly, he has a history of giving me good params such that the drill doesn't break. Last thing I want is to dig out chunks of carbide at 20xD.

If you're drilling from both sides to meet in the middle, I'd suggest hitting the final 1/4" with an HSS parabolic. The interruption where the holes imperfectly meet can cause a long carbide drill to shatter.

 

D

Dave Cross

Titanium

Joined

Oct 25, 2007

Location

South West Canada

• Jul 23, 2016

• #6

Yeah I have done plenty of the holes meeting in the middle in aluminum, not overly keen about doing it in P20.

I'm considering hand loading a traditional gun drill.

 

Y

yardbird

Titanium

Joined

Jul 3, 2013

Location

Indiana

• Jul 23, 2016

• #7

I drill a lot of perk holes 11/32". Buy some drill rod (11/32" ground viscount) then thread the end of the drill back about 5/8" also drill and tap drill rod. Make different lengths of rod and thread a few drills. Fine thread I've found is best. 8" deep is getting down in there for a 11/32" drill though. I do it and it works well but if the hole starts closing on the drill it will fail at the threaded portion and leave it in the hole so watch out. Good luck...

Brent

 

M

Milland

Diamond

Joined

Jul 6, 2006

Location

Hillsboro, New Hampshire

• Jul 23, 2016

• #8

Dave Cross said:

While I think I have enough Z daylight and swing to run a 16" drill, the maximum tool length from the gage line for my machine is 14". I'll hand load if I have to, but I'd rather use the tool changer.

Click to expand...

You might luck out if you use a stub holder like one of the near-flush ER32's, then recess the longer drill as far as you can. That will get you close to two inches, maybe hack some of the shank off too. Or go and cut the flute section off, rig a blocking wedge for where you'll put it in the collet, and presto - just the right length!

 

L

Limy Sami

Diamond

Joined

Jan 7, 2007

Location

Norfolk, UK

• Jul 24, 2016

• #9

Here's a 9mm 20xD YG carbide through coolant drill for £164 (<> $220 @ todays rate) so you could be in luck, especially as we are expensive compared to the US.

Ferret about on the link page for the tech info

http://www.cutwel.co.uk/hole-making...eam-drills-for-stainless-through-coolant-20xd

 

PixMan

Diamond

Joined

Jan 30, 2007

Location

Central MA USA

• Jul 24, 2016

• #10

I ran the Walter "GPS" program, put "P20" in the search bar for material and it came up with a DC170-25-08.731A1 at $487.00 plus the matching A6181TFT-11/32IN for $189. So yeah, it adds up to $676 for the tools. Doing over 250 holes before reconditioning in under 21 seconds each (for the long drill), under 2 seconds each for the pilot drill and tool change time...that's money back fast if you have a few to do or a repeat job.

That drill is a 25xD drill. It's a 23.3 x diameter hole, don't know that I'd risk it with a 20xD drill even though they're a lot less money.