Royal Accu-Length CNC Collet Chuck

Hoppy · Oct 19, 2014

Does anyone have an owner's manual and installation instructions for one of these? How do you know how far do wind it onto the draw tube when mounting it? I've already figured out that if you wind it on too far you don't get enough throw.

bigjon61 · Oct 19, 2014

Hoppy said:
Does anyone have an owner's manual and installation instructions for one of these? How do you know how far do wind it onto the draw tube when mounting it? I've already figured out that if you wind it on too far you don't get enough throw.

What do you mean you don't get enough throw? I always screw mine on until it bottoms out on the threads of the collet chuck, then back it off to the closest bolt hole. Suck it back using the draw tube, tighten the bolts, and screw your master collet in. You can screw that master collet in as far as you want basically, so long as your stock will pass through the collet pads. What size chuck? I run both S-26 and S-30 where I work, and the chucks mount and operate the same.

Hoppy · Oct 19, 2014

bigjon61 said:
I always screw mine on until it bottoms out on the threads of the collet chuck, then back it off to the closest bolt hole.

If I do what you say and then operate the chuck, the mechanism only moves in and out a few thousandths - not enough to make the collet close. The chuck is for 16C collets.

pcasanova · Oct 20, 2014

I do just like bigjon61 does. And the I have a s-26 and 3jr. The royal have very little throw. If I have a bar that's over by .015 or better, It will no go through or if it's undersized it will not grab. I found that the royal's are great for the sub spindle or if the stock is close to size within .01. If I run stainless or acetal I have no problems, but if I got acrylic or abs that tends to be all over I have to use the 3-jaw.

PBMW · Oct 20, 2014

If you are not getting enough movement at the collet...someone has ham fisted it and unscrewed the draw tube from the cyl a few turns.

Mtndew · Oct 20, 2014

Hoppy said:
If I do what you say and then operate the chuck, the mechanism only moves in and out a few thousandths - not enough to make the collet close. The chuck is for 16C collets.

Collets aren't supposed to have a lot of throw iirc. They have a limited operating range to assure runout and grip for the rated size.

Hoppy · Oct 22, 2014

Spent a little more time with this and here's what I found:
1) As I mentioned before, if I wind the chuck all the way on, I only get a few thousands of movement in the sleeve that closes the collet.
2) Maximum throw (about 0.1") occurs If I unwind the chuck by about 1-1/2 turns.
3) Even at this maximum throw, the collet will only grab the stock if it's cranked it in with a collet wrench as far as it can possibly go. Note that the stock was a few thousands oversize!
4) A tech rep at Royal tells me that I should see 3/16 throw at the closing sleeve.

Something about the setup is obviously not correct.

PBMW - I'm not understanding how this would cause my problem. Can you explain? What's the fix?

SeymourDumore · Oct 22, 2014

Hoppy said:
4) A tech rep at Royal tells me that I should see 3/16 throw at the closing sleeve.

Should and reality is a different story with the Royal.

I have one and I hate the miserable thing with a passion!!!
I've said this almost 2 years ago that I'll be buying a Microcentric flex setup and give away the Royal ....
Well, it hasn't happen yet. But it will.

Nonetheless, mine was cleaned last weekend ( monthly occurance nowadays if I'm milling on the lathe , small chips )
Just verified it, it moves no more than .110, and that is ALL IT CAN POSSIBLY MOVE!!!.
If you take yours apart, you'll see that the standoffs of the sleeve is only .125 longer than the center block.
That length difference is what defines it's full travel range.

I still don't see however why you have a difference in throw depending on how much you screw the chuck body onto the drawtube?

Just so we're all on the same page, this is how you mount the chuck:

1: You extend the drawtube
2: You screw on the chuck as far as the threads let it
3: You back off just until the boltholes line up for the first time.
4: You retract the drawtube, which in turn pulls the closer body onto the taper
5: You tighten the bolts

Hoppy · Oct 24, 2014

SeymourDumore said:
Just so we're all on the same page, this is how you mount the chuck:

1: You extend the drawtube
2: You screw on the chuck as far as the threads let it
3: You back off just until the boltholes line up for the first time.
4: You retract the drawtube, which in turn pulls the closer body onto the taper
5: You tighten the bolts

Yes, this is the procedure I followed and got only a few thousands' throw.

Another question/comment about this thing. I'm used to collet chucks on manual lathes where you can closely regulate the amount of collet compression by tinkering with the nut at the end of the drawtube. With this Royal setup, unless I'm missing something, your stuck with making adjustments in one-full-turn increments of the collet since you've got to get the keyway to line up.

SeymourDumore · Oct 24, 2014

Hoppy said:
unless I'm missing something, your stuck with making adjustments in one-full-turn increments of the collet since you've got to get the keyway to line up.

Should be 1/4 turn increments.
I use mine with a S32 master collet, and it has 4 slots 90 deg apart.

Hoppy · Oct 24, 2014

SeymourDumore said:
Should be 1/4 turn increments.
I use mine with a S32 master collet, and it has 4 slots 90 deg apart.

Mine are 16C collets with only a single slot.

SeymourDumore · Oct 24, 2014

Hoppy said:
Mine are 16C collets with only a single slot.

And only one screw hole for the locating instead of every 90 degree???

Yupp, way to go Royal!!!
I mean they make an OK 5C collet chuck, but cannot make a 5C collet worth a shit.
Their S26 dead length chuck sucks monkeyballs ( sorry, that's what I've got, not S32) , so apparently does the 16C.

Hoppy · Oct 25, 2014

SeymourDumore said:
And only one screw hole for the locating instead of every 90 degree???

Yes, one screw hole.

wrustle · Oct 25, 2014

Not sure if it makes a difference or not in the amount of "throw", but, when using a dead length collet chuck versus a 3 jaw, you need to change your machine settings from "OD" clamping to "ID" clamping.

I have a Royal Accu-Length Collet chuck on my ST20 and install it exactly as Seymour describes. I think the only thing he left out was changing your clamping setting.

Later,
Russ

wrustle · Oct 25, 2014

Seymour, even the Hardinge 16C collets only have one keyway.

Screw the collet in all the way, then back it off until the "d" in Hardinge lines up with the set screw. Screw in the set screw, and you're good to go.

Later,
Russ

Hoppy · Oct 25, 2014

wrustle said:
Not sure if it makes a difference or not in the amount of "throw", but, when using a dead length collet chuck versus a 3 jaw, you need to change your machine settings from "OD" clamping to "ID" clamping.

I have a Royal Accu-Length Collet chuck on my ST20 and install it exactly as Seymour describes. I think the only thing he left out was changing your clamping setting.

Yes, the clamping has to be changed to "ID".

Hoppy · Oct 25, 2014

wrustle said:
Seymour, even the Hardinge 16C collets only have one keyway.

I'm using Hardinge collets and, you're correct, they have only one keyway.

SeymourDumore · Oct 25, 2014

Yeah, the collet has only 3, but the Hardinge 16C chuck has 4 holes for the screws!!!

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