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Some help with tapping

tcncj

Cast Iron
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
I need some help with tapping thread.

I need to tap a bunch of M8x1.25 holes. And I bought some new taps (YG1) specific for Aluminum.
Machine got rigid tapping.
RPM 500
coolant on

I drill a hole (carbide 6.8mm drill)
chamfer the hole 45 degrees
And with my old taps this provides a nice thread.

But somehow I can't get nice thread with the new taps.
Yes they are for the same pitch haha. And they aren't form taps.
Thread is very loose. And it feels like the drilled hole is too small for the tap.

Left the new YG1 tap with some different chamfer sizes
Right my old tap

bt5HVgK.jpg


mHcoh6P.jpg
 
Check the minor dia. Is it in tolerance?
Check with thread gage. GO goes, NO GO doesn't? Don't worry about it.
 
Yes, ER16 collet

Check the minor dia. Is it in tolerance?
Check with thread gage. GO goes, NO GO doesn't? Don't worry about it.

I don't have a gauge. But the thread is so loose I don't need a gauge to tell it's not good haha
 
did you indicate the tap in? Just because it's in a collet doesn't mean it's running true. Your RPM may be too low for that type of tap. Try a couple holes at 2000 rpm and see how they look.
 
Agree with the old taps may be tapping tight but still with-in specifications // the new taps loser but sill in spec.

wore or dull taps tap tighter...

If not having a tap go/no go gauge you might try a highest grade bolt...

Drill point error would make both taps run poor...but drill hole should be checked for size..

We used to re sharpen dull taps with taking a small skim off the lead and the flute to bring taps back to spec after they began running near tight.
 
I would try to tap a hole with A9/Wd-40 to see if its possibly your coolant. Obviously the new tap is a chip puller style where the old one is a plug tap. In the past I have noticed plug taps hold size more consistently and are far less finicky than pullers when it comes to cutting parameters.
 
Both taps are new.
There is no runout on the collet (everything is brand new). Checked to be sure.
I swap both taps in the same holder.

Increased RPM to 1200.
Exactly the same settings used

Left: my 'old' taps (it pushes the chips forward)
Right: the new ones from YG1 (it pulls the chips back)

Chamfer settings are also the same.
The YG tap seems bigger. And doesn't run as smooth is my 'old' taps.
I could make the chamfer bigger. But previous tests didn't result in better threads.
Besides the finish looks horrible.


wsXb2df.jpg
 
I have a feeling that either they sent you the wrong tap or you ordered the wrong one... Blue band normally means for stainless... You are looking for a yellow band aluminium specific tap. Will make the world of difference in aluminium.

You will notice that spiral flute taps have loads more clearance towards the inside because it pulls the shaving out, making them weaker but also obviously the go to taps for short blind holes where you cant push the shaving with a spiral point tap. This and the clearance on the grind is probably not correct on your tap because it is not an aluminium tap.
 
I have a feeling that either they sent you the wrong tap or you ordered the wrong one... Blue band normally means for stainless... You are looking for a yellow band aluminium specific tap. Will make the world of difference in aluminium.

You will notice that spiral flute taps have loads more clearance towards the inside because it pulls the shaving out, making them weaker but also obviously the go to taps for short blind holes where you cant push the shaving with a spiral point tap. This and the clearance on the grind is probably not correct on your tap because it is not an aluminium tap.




Yep, nailed it. They gave you the wrong tap. That one's for Stainless. Here's the one you want for aluminum.http://www.yg1usa.com/feature/item_...FED THREAD TAPS&pre2=&name=SPIRAL FLUTED TAPS
 
The tap is for aluminium.

Your old tap is spiral point, with at least 5 threads of lead. Your new tap is spiral flute with probably only 2-3 threads of lead, and cuts much more aggressively. It's like the difference between a taper tap and a bottoming tap. The fewer threads of lead the more lubricity is required to prevent tearing. As someone else suggested, try with oil (neat coolant if you don't have any tapping oil, WD40 also works very well on aluminium) and see what happens.
 
While I agree YG is usually pretty damn good, simple way to check if it is the tap, .do a few threads by hand and if they're still bad, chuck it back at Cutwels, ..........it could be a mislabelled batch,
 








 
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