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Spindle Liner clearance?

ManualEd

Stainless
Joined
Oct 13, 2014
Location
Kelowna, Canada
I tried to run a 4' bar of 1.750 CRS yesterday, with a few UHMW plugs lightly pushed on it.
About .005" clearance between the plug and draw tube.
Made one hell of a racket bouncing around the draw tube once it hit 1000RPM.

A couple other threads mention spindle liners usually have about .020" clearance. Edit: Trusty Cook says ID clearance is .89-1.4mm.

What gives?
 
Not doubting your word but that doesn't sound right? I've done the same thing and what happened was when I advanced the bar the plug on the end came off not supporting anymore causing it to whip around making a hell of a racket. When you got it shut down you sure all the plugs were still in place? That should not be to much clearance.

The plastic plug didn't get wallered out when the spindle kicked up did it? I make my plugs smaller then the stock OD then saw cut them so I have to pry it open with a screwdriver to get them on, that seems to keep them on there. I don't do the slip fit for that reason. Not sure what your deal is just running a few things passed you.

Brent
 
Not doubting your word but that doesn't sound right? I've done the same thing and what happened was when I advanced the bar the plug on the end came off not supporting anymore causing it to whip around making a hell of a racket. When you got it shut down you sure all the plugs were still in place? That should not be to much clearance.

The plastic plug didn't get wallered out when the spindle kicked up did it? I make my plugs smaller then the stock OD then saw cut them so I have to pry it open with a screwdriver to get them on, that seems to keep them on there. I don't do the slip fit for that reason. Not sure what your deal is just running a few things passed you.

Brent

Thanks yardbird.

I have a few snug fits a long the length, and one piece pressed on quite tight on the end. Once it gets to the jaws a few good thunks and it falls off.
It measured round enough when I took it out.
I'm not quite sure what else to try. I have a good grip with hard jaws in a 3 jaw chuck, at 80% max pressure.
 
How about a bend in the bar? I've been surprised by this before. Don't assume your stock is straight until you've eyeballed down it and/or rolled it on something.

I avoid using long pieces when I can. Much less hassle and can spin it way fast without concern. Stock waste is in the equation but doesn't amount to much when you can run faster.
 
My Okuma has two different bore sizes inside the spindle. You might look into that.

Also, at the outboard end of the liner I use an O ring to keep the liner from walking back out.

Only 1-1/4 stock, but I've run unattended overnight with no problems.
 
I just finished a job and made delrin bushings for the spindle liner/guides. I ordered a bag of some fat soft o rings from Mcmaster and put o ring grooves in each bushing in the outside so they push into the spindle bore and stay put during bar pulling. Worked well.
 
My Okuma has two different bore sizes inside the spindle. You might look into that.

Also, at the outboard end of the liner I use an O ring to keep the liner from walking back out.

Only 1-1/4 stock, but I've run unattended overnight with no problems.

I made a new draw tube a year ago thats a bit tighter than the old one, so I'm thinking my end plug may have been in the looser actuator part instead of in the newer-tighter draw tube.
My other sleeves on it still should have kept it reasonable centred though.
 
I just finished a job and made delrin bushings for the spindle liner/guides. I ordered a bag of some fat soft o rings from Mcmaster and put o ring grooves in each bushing in the outside so they push into the spindle bore and stay put during bar pulling. Worked well.

I do the same. an added bonus about orings (or quad rings) is that they give the liners some additional dampening for vibration (elastic spring load). I give the OD a fair bit of clearance in the spindle bore to fully take advantage of that, and make the ring fit quite tight. install em with a bar with grooves along the length to set the depths evenly spaced (and knock em out later with a heavier brass bar).
 








 
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