Spring Loaded Engraving Tool
Has anyone made their own spring loaded engraving tool? If so, how well did it work? I like to run at 10,000 rpm to get the best surface finish possible. Every post I have seen about the 2linc tool seems to bring up an issue with high rpm handling.
Looking to have one made.
Pictures, drawings, feedback would be great.
I'll even pay or bribe for one.
Originally Posted by Blackdiamond
I have only made a spring loaded non rotating engraver for using a Dremel carbide point $3 to scratch fine lines like for making rulers and scales. For heaver lines I just use a ball end mill.
The spring on a carbide scratch engraver is needed as a 0.005" Z axis change can break off a non spring loaded point. A diamond point is even more brittle.
As for rotation and spring loaded the 2linc seems reasonably priced. If you engrave on uneven surfaces I can see it working better than a non spring loaded one. As I engrave at 3000-6000 rpm (with ball end mill) and engrave ok I don't see that you have to engrave at higher speeds. It helps if engraver is sharp and changed when dull and sometimes it helps to engrave a 2nd time at only 0.001" additional depth to lessen burrs. Depending on the metal some materials always need some deburring. The engraver point angle or ball end mill depth can effect whether burrs get pushed down or thrown up higher. Also coolant or cutting oil can help with reducing burr formation.
Thanks for the response. 90% of all my parts require engraving. I typically use a 3/64 ball end mill at 10,000 rpm 8-11 ipm. I'm machining 303 and 304. I always surface the parts before which allows me better accuracy and tool life. With the spring loaded I could take away the surfacing process on some parts which would take remove 3-5 mins in some cases.
I've gone through 2 of the 2LInc engravers.
One died in a nasty crash, and the other is worn now.
You can search PMM for my, and other reviews of the 2Linc engraver.
They work well if you don't push them too much in SS or hardened steel, and keep the cutter projection low.
One caveat: program with no dwells anywhere. Keep your plunge feed to about 250IPM, and your side feed to 10-20ipm.
We used them to engrave the pockets on the backside of putters. Unfortunately, we had to use a 3/16" engraving tip, hanging out about 1.4"
That proved to be too much radial load for the tool to stand up over the long haul.
The tool now has noticeable radial play. (.005-.010") at .5" out from the small collet.
That's too much to try to use anything but a "Tuff Tip" on most material.
I still use it for engraving ATF-NFA required info on Saiga 12G SBR's and the like, but the base material is just stamped sheetmetal so it will work well enough.
It works (worked) great on aluminum (anodized or bare), and even on glass with the diamond tip.
Be careful not to engrave too far off center when doing round work, and MAKE sure you plunge on the material, and not let it drop off the side/edge.
Some of our logos would run right up to the edges of the chamfer on the OD of the parts. That (more than anything) is probably what killed our 2nd tool.
I have scoured the board and came up with one post where a guy designed/built his own. It looked nice.
Here is one, and I know that on CNC Zone there is another design.
FYI, the drawing below is credited to PMM member DMF_TomB.
I've thought about using a endmill Ø1/2" holder/ extension, and a ER11 collet extension with a cross drilled hole for a pin/ slot configuration.
Just haven't had the time to build it yet.
Here was my idea I kind of sketched up about a year ago.
If anybody in interested in getting a 2LInc engraver, I bought one of their kits (with an extra collet) about 5 years ago thinking I would use it a lot but only ended up using it twice so its like brand new. I'll let it go for 1/2 the new price plus postage cost, if anyone is interested give me a call at six five zero - four five five - one nine five zero.
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